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BuckeyeFishing

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Posts posted by BuckeyeFishing

  1. I typically don't buy any molds other than aluminum CNC molds anymore. I saw someone post a mold from this company and checked out their website. They make resin/composite injection molds and I decided to take a flyer on one of their molds. I bought it back on Feb 14th, contacted them about 2 weeks later to see if it had shipped. They sent me a tracking number on March 2nd and it has been in pre-transit ever since. I contacted them the middle of this week to ask about the pre-transit and was told it had shipped earlier this week but the tracking info still says pre-transit.  They are based in Ohio and so am I, priority shipping takes 2 days because I have shipped lures to friends for them to try. I feel like I am getting the run around.

    Anyone ever bought from this company? Have you had any issues? Luckily I used PayPal to pay for the mold, I plan on giving them til the end of this week before I file a dispute and get my money back. I have saved all the communications and the tracking info in case I need it. Should have just ordered a similar mold from Basstackle or Fat Guys Fishing, this is what I get for trying to support a local company. 

  2. What are you guys using to remove the sprue from small jig heads, like 1/32-1/8 oz. Typically with larger jigs and sinkers I just twist them off but with the smaller ones I am bending the hooks and loosening the wire keepers. I know places sell cutters online but I don't want to make an order for a $10 cutter and pay $8 shipping. Is there something I can get from Lowes or Hobby Lobby that would work? I would like something that cuts close so I have minimal file work. TIA!

  3. 7 hours ago, Musky Glenn said:

    Mine don't have the pins but I have only pushed the end off one time and it didn't fall into the plastic because the plastic , around the outside where I had dipped, held it together. I just applied to much pressure when emptying after making a pour. I found my tips fit a little tight so I filed a notch into the end of the tube so I could open them with a straight screw driver.

    I actually have set the bar at the top so I can't push the ends off. I have done that with my single injector before though. It sucks when it falls in the cup...lol

    • Like 1
  4. I have a Do-it dual injector and I am not a fan. The gap between the 2 injectors is pretty small and makes it difficult to use larger pyrex cups. No locking pins is also a minor issue. If I had it to do all over again, i would have paid the extra $50 and went with a BassTackle Dual injector. Just my opinion though, others may feel different.

  5. If you are just making baits for yourself, basstackle.com has some very affordable single cavity CNC molds that will get you started. Thats how I started out, bought a few single shot molds for there and started injecting. They are great for personal use, but would take you forever if you were trying to fill orders.

    I also suggest only buying molds you are gonna use. Get 2 or 3 molds of the soft plastics you use the most. Get a handful of colors and glitter that you use the most. Keep it simple in the beginning, there is plenty of time to go over the top with molds, colorant, and glitter once you decide if this hobby is for you or not. 

    • Like 1
  6. On 4/28/2019 at 1:00 PM, CNC Molds N Stuff said:

    I'm pretty sure one of the companies who makes and sells injectors has a setup to use two different diameter injectors.  Often I'll partially hand pour a mold, close it, and then single color inject it to get the affect I want.  I do buzz frogs that way.  In fact I go further in some cases.  I keep a few frogs in my box with black spots on a white belly.  I make a few dots of black with a rod, pour some white over it, close the mold and shoot the back in black.  

    This is also what I do with some of my molds, flukes, stingers and craws mainly. You can get pretty creative hand pouring the bottom and then shooting the top. I have been able to get craws with 4 different color by hand pouring 2 colors on the bottom for the tail and body, a different color for the claws, and then shooting the 4th color for the top of the craw. Its time consuming but you can get some really unique baits. I have never had an issue with them coming apart either. I usually make sure I shoot the injector a little hotter than normal to make sure they bond well.

    • Like 1
  7. I have MF non-bleed flo. pink colorant and haven't had any issues with it bleeding. I have done a number of white body/pink tail 2" paddle tails and haven't had a single one bleed. MF non-bleed florescent colors are about all I use if I am making florescent baits. You might have to use a few more drops than other brands but i have never had them bleed.

    • Like 1
  8. just a quick update about my BTS mold. Got a shipping notification Thursday, 16 business days depending on how much got done around  Easter. So mine was at the low end of the 14-26 business days, excited to get the mold and shoot a few.

    • Like 1
  9. Is this the same as Do-it WB400? I was also reading a post before where there was an issue with these not fitting right, is that issue fixed. I would like to order 1000 but don't want to waste my time and money if there are still issues. 

    Thanks for the input!

  10. I don't have a dual injector so I still mess around with my open pour silicon. I have a swimbait, jerkbait, and paddletail. They were frustrating at first because I wasn't getting the plastic warm enough to flow right. I had to do a ton of trimming and sometimes I wasn't getting the tails to fully pour. With practice I have gotten better with them. There is way more skill required in hand pouring than in shooting injection molds. Some of the best looking baits come out of hand pour molds.

    • Like 1
  11. The first baits I ever made, I used plastic molds from Jann's. They are the type where you pour your plastic in a reservoir and there is a plastic plunger you use to "inject" the plastic. They worked fine but are tedious, time consuming, and dented. You had to oil them frequently so the bait wouldn't stick, a lot like stone molds. I don't use them anymore now that I have my aluminum molds and a couple stone molds. The only one I would even consider using is the Ned mold and thats because I haven't gotten an aluminum one yet. Having tried plastic, stone, open pour silicon, and aluminum, aluminum is by far superior.

  12. I am not too worried about it. I will give it to the beginning of May and if I don't hear anything I will send off an email to see the status. I just want the mold before summer since I throw a lot of soft plastic jerk baits during that time for smallmouth in the creeks. I ordered the 4.25" jointed jerk bait mold. 

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