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BuckeyeFishing

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Everything posted by BuckeyeFishing

  1. Its up to 14-26 Business Days. I ordered a mold last Monday, just hope to get it by mid-May.
  2. Shoot me a pm with your email address and I will forward to you
  3. I put mine in a toaster oven set at like 150-200 degrees. I only leave it in for a couple minutes and also pre-heat my molds that way to. Work awesome in the winter when the garage is in the 30s-40s.
  4. Awesome, nice to hear they are a quality injector
  5. That cutter looks nice. I would really like to get their 2.75" double dipper tube and that cutter but I just can't make up my mind between that or the ultra molds 3.25" tube that I don't need a cutter for. Pour more tubes and cut tails or pour less tubes and don't have to cut tails. Thats the eternal tube makers question...LOL
  6. The only issue I have had with my stone molds is that the runners are really small. On one mold, the runner is literally the size of a 1/8th oz slip sinker. There is not much waste in their molds as far as extra stone material. If I shoot too hot, the baits will dent because their isn't enough of a runner to pull from, these are top injected swim baits. Topping off doesn't help because the runner and gate freeze pretty quickly. These took a little trial and error to dial in consistent baits what wouldn't dent.
  7. I mainly have coloring and glitter from M-F manufacturing, they work well for me. I also have some from Jann's Netcraft. Many people get their coloring and glitter from either lurecraft or Spike-it/Lureworks. Lots of places that make good colors but keep in mind that there are differences between the companies, even when its the "same" colorant. Lots of places to buy plastics too. I have used Do-It, Bait Plastics, and Dead On Plastix. All three have their pros and cons, but Do-It was probably my least favorite.
  8. Trail and error is probably your best bet. Just take note of how much salt you added once you get to the desired effect. Also remember, adding salt will change the color of you bait too.
  9. You can also buy it in a 1/2 pound or 2 oz. for most of their colors
  10. I got a 4 oz injector and would like to pick up some new O-rings. I am not ready to make an order from anywhere so I would hate to just order some O-rings from LPO or some place like that. Can I just pick up some O-rings from Lowes or the hardware store? Anyone know the size that is needed for a 4 oz injector? Do I need high temp O-rings or anything like that? Thanks, Jake
  11. If you get on the facebook group "soft plastic bait makers supply group" there is a guy selling injectors from 4 oz. to 20 oz. They look pretty decent and the price isn't bad, 8 oz $65 and 12 oz is $85
  12. A touch off topic, but I find it sad all the hoops that need to be jumped through in order to sell a couple baits. Small business is supposed to be the backbone of the American economy but when you look into starting one, it sure doesn't feel like they want you to start one or succeed. This isn't just for bait making, but a lot of businesses also. I thought about doing the same thing, sell some jigs and soft plastics. I have a pension where I work but I paid into social security for 15 years prior. If I could get to 30 years in social security I could collect my full pension and full social security when I retire. I thought a little part time side business would be a great way to achieve this. Way too much of a headache for what I wanted to do it for. Good luck!
  13. I thought basstackle used to sell an 8 or 10 oz. It shows it in one of the pictures for their injectors but doesn't have it as an option to buy. You might want to contact them and ask.
  14. Nice looking baits. That might be as good as it gets for your chartreuse. You might be able to get it a little brighter with additional drops of colorant but it will still be transparent. If you want it more translucent you will probably have to add a drop of white or couple drops of yellow to take away the transparency. I picked up a couple LED shop lights from Lowes for my work benches. It made a huge improvement in my lighting issues.
  15. Checked my baits last night, no noticeable difference between 48 hrs and 72 hrs. Even thought the claws like to stick together, in the water they do not and the action is not effected.
  16. I can say mine sat for about 2 weeks before I used it. It definitely separated but didn't hard pack, but it also only sat for 2 weeks. I checked my baits again last night and they continue to improve from the initial pour. Most of the tackiness is gone but I am still concerned that the claws on the craws i poured are gonna stick together while working the bait. Gonna do a test of the action tonight when I get home from work to make sure those claws don't stick together. If they do, I will be going back to Bait Plastics for making craws and grubs.
  17. Just checked what I poured Monday night, so they have been curing for about 36 hrs, and its getting better. The claws aren't sticking together as badly and the baits aren't sticking together. Tonight will be 48 hrs, but I usually like them to sit 72 hrs before packaging and adding a little worm oil. Will continue to monitor.
  18. I should clarify my post a little. The bait didn't stick to my hands or the mold, it removed fine. I was pouring craws and the claws kept sticking together and the baits were sticking to each other when I put them in a water bath to cool.
  19. Someone posted either here or on another site I go to, that Dead On was sticky out of the mold, but once it cured it was fine. He didn't specify what his cure time was but I usually cure for 1-3 days. I just shot my first batch with Dead On last night and it was sticky outta the mold for sure. It will have cured 24 hrs at about 7pm, we will see what its like then.
  20. Hard to pour outside when its 35 degrees and raining all the time. I pour outside when its nicer in the spring but, a couple box fan pulling fumes, window and garage door open for ventilation, space heater to keep it from getting too cold is plenty. Prior to becoming a teacher, I spent 7 years doing QC testing and R&D work for chemical companies. I handled things far nastier than lead and plastic fumes. I pretty well versed in proper ventilation.
  21. I don't have to worry about lead free lures but I read what you had on BR and it was very informative. You never know when they may ban lead somewhere else and its always great to learn something new.
  22. Thats a killer deal right there. My wife would be fuming if I showed up with 200 lbs of lead. I do my pouring in the garage and she gets angry if I take up too much space and she has to park outside. I park outside but she is spoiled by the comforts of a garage...LOL! Last time I bought a large quantity and threw it in the middle of the garage to process, that didn't go over to well. I told her if we bought a nice, big shed for my work area, she wouldn't have to worry about it anymore!
  23. Never seen anything like that before. I pretty much use the same set up as you, Wagner heat gun, fluid bed, toaster oven. I use a pair of forceps to clamp on to the hook when I am heating the jig. I don't wear gloves of any kind except when I am pouring my jigs. I touch the jig heads when I am removing the sprue and have never had anything like that happen. I paint a fair amount of jigs white and pearl but I hadn't painted jigs in a couple years, until this year, so my white and pearl are much older than yours. I guarantee its happening to the darker colors too, its just not showing through like it does with white and lighter colors. I would say its an issue with the lead in the jig or something that got on the jig heads surface. Since you didn't pour the heads yourself, that would seem to be the most likely scenario. I wonder if they are using some sort of release agent in their molds and then not cleaning it off the head?
  24. Some guys spray their molds with Pam cooking spray, I am sure you can spray your o-rings with it also.
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