Tarheelfishing88

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About Tarheelfishing88

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  1. Tarheelfishing88

    Candy Colors

    I've started using them recently and have been very impressed. They seem to atomize at much lower pressure with less reducing required than the normal createx transparents and are much better for detail work. For subtle transparent effects you can reduce as much as desired without problems. One thing that I've tried recently is not reducing them and using it for a fairly heavy coverage midcoat, and I find I have really good control and coverage. I'm still only a few months into building cranks and airbrushing, but the candy colors have allowed me to do a lot more than what my normal Createx transparents have. Last advantage for me is that it allows me to try new things with high success rate, because it seems to do well with any mixture/reductions that I've tried.
  2. Tarheelfishing88

    Any "REAL" custom crank bait makers left?

    Vodkaman, As a new builder I really struggled with understanding vortices and the forces behind crankbaits hunting. Your discussion on the subject provided me with the basis of my understanding, and it is the only reason I've been able to successfully create a hunting crankbait (on purpose that is...amazing some of the action you can get from things you did wrong). It even led me to doing additional research on hydrodynamics. Thanks for sharing your information. I've read many of the articles available on these forums, and they have helped me to develop skills that would have taken me years. Hopefully, soon I'll be able to contribute with insights of my own.
  3. Tarheelfishing88

    Top coat question

    Are the bubbles happening after the D2T has been on the bait for a bit, or are they there when right when you brush the D2T on? If they are coming to the surface later then it may be a seal or paint problem. If they are there immediately it may be related to mixing or application. Bubbles brushed on: -If you mix the epoxy too quickly you will have more bubbles, and they may be transferred onto the bait. -If the D2T starts to thicken the bubbles seem to transfer onto the blank a little more easily. I haven't had this issue since I started adding a few drops of denatured alcohol to make it a bit thinner and started mixing smaller batches to reduce the time the D2T sits before application. -I normally try to use long smooth strokes on the bait for cleaner results, and try to avoid over brushing. Bubbles showing up later: If they are coming up after the D2T has been on the bait then that normally means that the wooden body wasn't properly sealed or you have moisture popping up from your paint like woodieb8 mentioned. -If you did seal the wooden body and still had that happen then one option for a better seal is to heat the blanks up in the oven to around 125 degrees to open the pores in the bait and allow what you're sealing the wood with to penetrate better. -As far as the paint goes I normally paint the next day myself, but haven't had any trouble painting a few hours later if I have properly heat set between paint layers. Tip: If I still have a couple bubbles I will hit them very briefly with a heat gun while they are on the lure turner, and they'll normally pop. I try not too have to hit the baits with a heat gun when I don't have too though, because I think this would cause the exothermic epoxy reaction to speed up more which could cause D2T to be even more brittle.
  4. Tarheelfishing88

    Any "REAL" custom crank bait makers left?

    I'm new to the board and to bait making (4 months). At this point I don't consider myself a true custom bait maker, but figured I'd comment because I certainly qualify in the addicted category. Also, as a younger guy (30), for the hobby anyway, I wanted to at least demonstrate there are some younger guys still wanting to master and pass on the craft. I have put in a lot of hours to learn the craft the right way, but the more I realize how much I have to learn. Before I started even making baits I spent a couple hundred hours reading books, articles, and forum threads on crankbait building, airbrushing crankbaits, and hydrodynamics. I've literally changed my sleep and work schedule to allow me to dedicate the time I need to become a master of the craft, and spent a lot of time and money transforming my garage into a bait making workshop. I've gone through about 20 blanks in 6 different designs so far, and I have many that work decently but only have 1 design at this point that I'm preparing to be able to reproduce. A couple of the other designs are close, but still not quite getting the action that I want.