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canuck 2

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canuck 2 last won the day on August 2

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  1. Nice baits, skirt colors and blending. Taking it to a different level you may want to consider removing pour flashing,smoothing out your heads before paint.I like to floral wire tie over top of tying thread to attach skirt tabs and totally eliminate the collar. A bit more fussy but really ads durability and cleans up the finished look. You may also consider using less strands of skirt tab material and then tapper cut with scissors towards the hook on both sides to affect a different tapered body styling as it hangs . You will figure out what works for you as far as where to trim to in terms of the hook bend. I have been using less and tapering skirts for a little while now and it can really improve the action/bite and also help expose the trailer if you choose to use one. Keep up the good work. Just some thoughts to maybe help you out.
  2. Thanks Hillbilly for you help and suggestions. The possibilities are endless and the creative juices are activated. I can see a lot of time in the shop happening real soon. Thanks again.
  3. Smalljaw. I certainly will. I mainly target pike so build my baits with1/2oz 5/8 and 3/4 oz heads to stabilize the larger blades that I like to use. 7,6,5's. It will be interesting to see how everything turns out with this style head.If it works I will also try to down size the blades and wire frame for shallower fishing and a different fish chasing bait presentation. Starting holidays tomorrow for a month so lots of time building/finishing and yes even fishing. Correction on the previous note : should read hobby addiction. Thanks again for your continued support and for doing so many great videos. I have learned a ton of stuff from your efforts and you have advanced my building style/comfort level immensely. Thanks to all whom endlessly contribute to the betterment of this craft and great site.
  4. Thanks guys for your insight and opinions. i like the tubing idea for a test spacer to see if I can get the blade rotation to start and hold up. I was thinking along the lines of using a thread ball and changing its position on the shaft to get this figured out. If that works I will use a thread ball and a heavy chenille yarn ball winding and add scent to it as an added attractant. The two blade upper wire is definitely an awesome rebuild idea. I will post my results once I get a chance to get back to these. As always you guys and this site are top notch.Can't say enough about being able to be a part of it as a member and hopefully contribute to this great hobby addition. Cheers.
  5. Sorry guys only one image came through.I will look at the stirup clevis hole to wire size as a possible drag causing the blade to stall.The blade dose rotate easily with a bit of hand movement rotation in the air at the bench.Just not in the water.Thanks for your help.
  6. Sorry for the unclear description smalljaw. I am attempting to put up some pics. All of what you have said makes sense.I may also have to move the blade and beads further up front of the head. Hope the pics come through.
  7. Thanks again .Hopefully the air velocity will generate enough pressure to start the blades and a water test will be the final check. Still a bit peculiar having that lazy blade . Will try and get a pic up of the lures to show you what Im working with. Something obvious to others may jump out that I am missing.
  8. Thanks Mark thats a great tip. Never thought of using air. Will save a lot of trips to the river bank.
  9. Hi Guys. I made a couple of different spinner baits using buzz bait wire frames.I added a solid clevis, blade and metal bearing beads ahead of the 1/2 oz head on each of the models . The weighted poured head was on the bottom wire on both styles . The only difference between models was I turned the wire frame up side down changing the line tie on point from top wire to lower wire. They turned out looking great and I was excited to get them into the water for testing. The top blade performed great spinning easily on both types but the lower blade in front of the head just waffled around and would not get into a rotation regardless of how fast I retrieved the lure. I tried a quick rod jerk acceleration once the lure hit the water with no success. Tried cupping the blade to increase lift still no rotation. The blades are offset in front of each other about an inch with the lower blade being first in line and then just behind above the head and hook the main blade on the upper wire.I thought that each blade would react like an inline spinner and pick up and spin freely once retrieved. Don't fully get why at this point the bottom blade will not turn. Especially ones with the pull point / tie on point being on the lower arm directly in front of the weighted head. Thought I would put it out there and see what people think / suggest. Sorry not yet able to put pics up of lures ,hope I described the build enough to get the idea. I have build enough baits to know what clevis and blade s work together and have worked through several two blade inline problems but this one is making me scratch my head. Looking for any input /feed back Will try and get pics up to help but I'm not great with phones and computers. Thanks in advance for you wisdom and experience.
  10. Basseducer It is wise to heed your Dr's advise. It is hard to close the door on something creative that has given years of pleasure if there is still juice or a desire to do so. It is how ever fortunate that our craft of tackle making allows for so many other creative and challenging areas for creativity. It is also a huge reminder for all of us to practice our craft as safely as possible. That being said best of health and good luck with opening new doors for your creativity energy.
  11. Thanks Brick Steel for the feed back and for a job well done. That is a sweet paint job there. I can only hope to aspire to your level some day.
  12. Thanks guys for your feed back. Some really great resource sites and information . Cheers
  13. While checking out air brush lure painting videos I noticed several guys with detailed color pics of fish eg bass, pike pickerel etc on their benches. Possibly used as patterns to get the details and proportions/colors right while painting lures. This lead me too the fish painting encyclopedia used by taxidermists. Costly at $200 plus. Is there anything available at a lower price range which can give similar details that would get a guy started into detail lure painting as a guide . Any ideas suggestions welcome . Thanks.
  14. Just to follow up correction on the tip size for the 125 is 2mm the 140-2.5 the160-3mm. Noticed that Schmitz tools have a round nose that starts at 1.8mm German made but a little more pricey. On there web site model 4331HS22 is on sale for $37 . For the most part I have never heard of anyone using them but looks like a good product.
  15. The tip dia of the 22-01-125 is 1.8mm slightly smaller than the -160 at 2mm. Check the spec sheet to make sure. It will make a slight difference in the size of the end loops you can bend with it. I have the 160 and sometimes would like to be able to make a little tighter/smaller ends while working smaller spinners. Just a preference. Plus I build for larger fish using heavier wire.
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