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Ryan V

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Posts posted by Ryan V

  1. I'm a very big fan of scroll saws for lure making. I have the option to use a band saw but always chose the scroll saw for how smooth of a finish it leaves and how accurate I can be. You can even cut through 1 1/2" lumber at a decent pace with the right set up. If I could only pick one blade size it would likely be #5. There's a huge difference between a scroll saw that takes a pin end blade and a saw that can take a pinless blade. Pinless blades are thinner, allow tighter turns and are often a nicer quality. I'm guessing many people who don't like scroll saws or talk about how slow they are using pin end blades.

    Some saws can take either pin end or pinless. I had a WEN saw that could do either. I currently have a RBI 226 that I found used that I highly recommend.

    • Like 1
  2. I've been wanting to try color shift paints for awhile. Anyone use them or recommend what kind to get?

    Any tips and tricks with them would be great too. I know the color you spray them over makes a big difference in how they show up or how well they shift colors.

  3. I use a scroll saw for all my baits and lip slots. I hold the lip against the bait at the angle I want and trace on both sides of the lip with a fine pencil and then cut to the inside of both lines. I always need to take at lest two passes but you should be able to get any thickens you need by taking really light passes and testing the fit until you get it perfect.

    • Like 2
  4. Good choice on the airbrush. That's the one I use. You can find the airbrush at Hobby Lobby and can sometimes use a 40% off coupon that you can find online. You can also order a airbrush through Hobby Lobby's website.

    • Thanks 1
  5. 4 hours ago, mark poulson said:

    Give clear nail polish a try.  It's cheap at the dollar store, so you aren't out a lot of money if it doesn't work.

    I tried that last weekend and it almost worked. I was fishing for lakers in 105 fow and it didn't have any cracking but after about an hour water started to get under the clear coat. I think it was just from the water pressure or maybe a small blimish in the clear coat that made it fail. It would probably work fine in shallower water. I had  6 coats of nail polish on maby if I tried a few more coats it'd survive. 

  6. I posted this in hard bates for and someone suggested I try posting it here so here it is.

     

    I've started making ice fishing lures lately and I've had several of my lures clear coats crack on me when I'm fishing. I'm guessing that its the cold that's making them crack so what I'm wondering is if any of you guys have had something like this happen and what kind of epoxy or resin I should buy that wouldn't crack. I'm fairly new to lure making and I have been using a 30min epoxy from Tracker supply for my clear coats.

    Any help would be great thanks  

    Ryan

     

  7. 51 minutes ago, fshng2 said:

    Try Clear Plasti-Dip.

    Dried coat temp use range -30° to 200°F.

    It does not chip or peel. Similar in appearance to flexible vinyl, and is resistant to abrasion, cutting, and marring. Just dip the item to be coated in Plasti Dip® and let dry in the air-no heat required.

    https://www.amazon.com/Plasti-Dip-Performix-12219-Clear/dp/B00I9SK8WK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=clear+plasti+dip&qid=1551318207&s=gateway&sr=8-2

    Is this what your talking about? Because it says in the description that it's easily removable. 

  8. I've started making ice fishing lures lately and I've had several of my lures clear coats crack on me when I'm fishing. I'm guessing that its the cold that's making them crack so what I'm wondering is if any of you guys have had something like this happen and what kind of epoxy or resin I should buy that wouldn't crack. I'm fairly new to lure making and I have been using a 30min epoxy from Tracker supply for my clear coats.

    Any help would be great thanks  

    Ryan

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