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datguy.dev

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  1. Most youtube anglers opt for the GoPro chest rig for outward shots. However, I can see you have a different shooting style rather than that blogging/selfy style. It probably wouldn't work so well when sitting down either. But you could get that perspective using technology. As a software and hardware developer, I can't help but ponder over wirelessly controlled pan/tilt ideas for a small camera like a GoPro. I'm not sure what camera you currently use. But it would essentially be a 12v motorized camera mounted on a box. The housing box clamps onto a pole, which clamps onto the back of your boat and you'd control it with a remote. As a tackle maker, I would consider making and shipping you the box that clamps onto a pole in turn for advertising of my tackle shop. It would quite an undertaking, but nothing I'm confused about or haven't done before. If that is something of interest to you, contact me at dev@mg.ritchietackle.com
  2. i've been using 3D printed stencils for quite some time. I simply print a flat pattern like hexagons or scales and use a heat gun to form the stencil around the bait which provides a really exact match with no gaps for overspray.
  3. There are different shades of "chartreuse." But I think it's just a fancy name for lime green. XD So 50%/50% yellow and green will give you something to start from.
  4. Subbed. Nice videos overall. I wish you had a second camera to catch the action going on in the water. It would be interesting to see you pull in the fish or where your casting etc. Keep it up.
  5. Ended up with this design: https://a360.co/2KODDOW Didn't work out. If you put a bullet weight on you line and flick it, the weight will move up the line. You get that with texas rigs often if you don't secure the weight. A part of my designed lure catcher is it would not slip and used a clamp to allow it to climb the line. I designed it to have more resistance as if it was falling down the line than going up. But it turns out, even a minute amount of resistance won't allow you to flick the device up the line. Let alone, enough resistance to keep the device from falling. A bit of a catch-22. I think I'm going to try a ball lock:
  6. What are you all opinions purple hard baits? I'm thinking of doing one in a dark blue from the top, fade to purple in the middle, and fade to white on the bottom. I have heard many refer to the color purple as seasonal much like a bubblegum color. A lure you pull out when nothing is biting... I do this with soft baits. But I don't see many hard baits with these colors. I tend to do a strange color combo in all of my batches if you have any suggestions?
  7. Greetings, My take on headbangerlures "headbanger" lures. 100% redesigned in CAD and 3D printed by myself. I called it the double barrel... because its butt looks like a side-by-side shotgun for two soft tails. I kinda' needed two tails for a larger bait. I haven't tested these it yet; obviously. But I have 2"/4" versions of this that Bass like to bite at. This is that, revised, and scaled up. I thought I'd try and do the same for musky etc. I plan on making about 5 of them if you have any color or pattern suggestions. I've already committed one to a bone with red dust speckle in the clear coat with those crawfish like plastic tails.
  8. Made some progress on the device at the least. The line snagged gets inserted into the center channel where the teeth are; it's non slip. You attach the device and flick the line to move the device up it. Then a line is run through the middle and out either side of the device with a rare earth magnet attached. (There is an hole on the opposite hole the right to run the line back through.) If you pull on the magnet line, it disengages the teeth mechanism allowing for both retrieval or adjustment. The idea is you flick it around and get the magnet to stick to the lure so you can either loosen it with some finessing or pull it to a razor on the device. In that case, there are more magnets on the device to catch the lure when the line is cut. I'm also considering adding another hole on the left for a lift clamp style branch cutter which would use razor blades but weight becomes a considerable issue and how that'll rotate the device. Aside from branches, I'm going to add retrieving lures stuck underwater as many other lure retrievers do.
  9. Sometimes you have to test your testing methods to figure things out. I say go for it. If I'm reading your question right, I don't think the larger holes will impact the action or depth substantially. I think it would impact the lures in the bottom right the most because they don't have flat tops.
  10. I'm talking about when the line is creating the knot(s) around branches. The lure's hooks might be be snagged. That aspect is quite random. Pulling it off is only viable if you think the branch will break. Heavier duty line would help, but I'd like to assume one's lure spends more time in the water than a tree. It would be a difficult sell for an ultralight rod etc. Adding, most fishermen would be using leaders with braid. So the overall strength would still only be as strong as the weakest part. In my experiences, mono or braid will rub and create a weak point where the line often snaps. Not to forget, if you happen to get wrapped up with a branch that is fresh and about 1" thick it'll just bend. You'd need to be a walking tractor to pull that out.
  11. Greetings, I had a sticky situation today getting a lure wrapped around a small tree in the water; out of reach from the shore. You know when you throw into some branches and you try to pop it around at the perfect moment.... But it wraps up instead of flying back at ya'? I was using the first frog I ever owned. So I got wet and went in and got it. Since then, I've been thinking about how to hit the undo button when these type of situations .... and getting good is not a personal option. A lot of the times if the lure isn't snagged and will fall, I'll let it drop and cut the line, and use the wind or whatever to try and get the lure. There are so many variables with this situation, but if you have any tips, I'm all ears. Currently, I'm developing a device which will slide down or up one's line to retrieve the lure. But with all the variables... getting the lure free is quite the development challenge. Worth a go at however because I'm pretty sure everyone has lost a lure to some branches and knows that feeling when you watch it dangle out of reach.
  12. I think of Bass Jigs. Those with the weighted head and the skirt. If you look at any jig head, it'll have a hook or catch right under the head or the hook eye which acts as a catch. Then ya' simply use a tiny rubberband or maybe thread + super glue to secure the skirt to it. If you have a flat hook with no catch, it would probably be easiest to add that ledge, hook, or "catch" part. You could do that fairly easily with wire. Twist a wire super tight with a hook in the middle then cut the two ends giving you two arms stick out. Another way to add the catch part may be to use the classic pinch style lead weights you'd use on a line. Then work it around the hook trying to remove as much as possible to not affect the action of the lure too much. Maybe even solder a blob a there?
  13. I use galvanized steel wire (mono) that can be found at any hardware store by the spool. The only real decision there is the maximum weight capacity. The lower the gauge the more weight capacity. But the lower you go the harder it is to work with and larger holes are needed. You only need like a 24 gauge wire if your targeting 15 lbs Bass with a weight capacity of 18 lbs. If you get a 15lb bass you're a god!
  14. Greetings, I wanted to make a fish stringer because I tend to DIY everything I can. I went searching around the internet for ideas. I didn't really find anything that either looked very functional, or appealing, or required say drilling into a metal rod. Also needed something portable as I usually hike into lakes. So I had a ago at it and I think I have something both easy to make which doesn't require any special materials. It just requires some cord and wire (16 or 18 gauge are apt). Then whatever on the end to prevent the fish from coming off; I used a bobber. The bobber also helps managing and protecting the needle. You could use a keyring or something like that. I like the float because I also kayak fish and I need to make sure the fish don't get hung up while I'm moving. The process is very simple: 1) Find a nail or something that is a tad bit smaller in diameter then the cordage. 2) Wrap the wire around the nail and get about 5-10 wraps making them as uniform as possible. I used jewelers pliers. 3) Feed the chord through the wire loops you just made. It helps to melt the end, then pull the melted plastic with pliers to create a point. 4) Cut the long end of the wire diagonally creating a sharp point. 5) Push the sharp point through the cord from the bottom up. That makes the needle. 6) Melt the chord on the top and smush it down to make it look good. 7) Crimp the last wrap into the chordage. That's it. The only thing I would note is try to make your wraps as small as possible which will make it much easier to insert into a fish's lip. Imagine putting panfish on it etc. Cheers..
  15. You might get a kick out of this. I never got around to building it just yet... I'm not much of a night fishermen. But I have like two decades of experience in hobbyist electronics. I have all the respect for guys who conduct schematics like you do.
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