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Everything posted by Troutfishing303

  1. Don't try to buy molds or injectors from overseas. Buy from USA companies only. If you're going to buy an injector, buy a basstackle.com injector. Which brings up another topic, don't go cheap on your molds and injectors. They're like tools, buy a quality one the first time and you won't have to buy it again in the future. You don't want to buy a mold and have to modify it yourself. If you buy a mold and it doesn't shoot right, ask for a refund or replacement. Trying to modify molds yourself will probably lead to frustration (unless you have a lot of experience) and then you'll probably quit the hobby. Companies like Bait Plastics and Basstackle.com have been good to me.
  2. Yeah, salt water plastisol plus you can add hardener to make it even more hard.
  3. @Chance_Taker4 Any updates on this issue?
  4. Do they have similar action? Do you like the Fat Guys one better?
  5. @Canga~Is there mayhem ned bug on their site?
  6. @Canga~ Looks good and sounds like it's a pretty flawless mold. I'm really considering ordering. Thank you for posting that picture.
  7. That's awesome...do you by any chance have any pictures of the 3" baits?
  8. Here's an update just in case someone wants to know what I came up with. I bought Kosher Sea Salt and Morton Table Salt. I use a 50/50 mix and grind it for about 3-4 seconds with a coffee grinder. I just make sure not to make it into a powder but I still want to grind it to crush both types of salts down a little bit. Grinding will help with the suspension of the salt and the 50/50 mix helps with the clarity but there is still a noticeable change in color. I have not tried the glass beads yet since I don't want to scratch up my injector. Maybe some day down the line but I think this mix is working well for me. Thanks to this forum and everyone here for helping me understand how to use salt in my baits.
  9. @Skimpy that was a cool video. I subscribed!
  10. Yeah, that's why I don't like their model. It's a cool way to make the mold though. You don't have to use a hot knife for it.
  11. It's actually pretty ingenious...check it out: https://store.do-itmolds.com/3-Skirted-Chub-Grub_p_162.html http://www.basstackle.com/Twin_Tail_Skirt_Grub_Mold_3_p/twintailskirtgrub3inch.htm
  12. Hello, Does anyone know of a company who can make a spider grub mold? I know Do it molds has one but I don't really like their version. Bass tackle used to have one but they discontinued it. I asked Bass Tackle if they can make them but they just said they don't offer the design anymore. I'm wondering why not? Is it too hard to make or were their too many problems with it? Their design was mediocre too. Does anyone have a hula grub mold they want to part with? I know I can make them by attaching a twin tail grub and skirt but that seems like a LOT of work. I would really like an injection mold of the whole bait. Thanks in advance.
  13. Alright, here's some questions I have in my head while I'm reading this... 1. If it was a "core shot", then wouldn't you see the bone/ yellowish color in the core/middle of the bait? Bass-boys posted a picture of a cut up Creme worm (thanks for the picture by the way @Bass-Boys) and the core is not a different color. 2. If it was "dyed" after the fact, wouldn't the dye spread throughout the worm, eventually turning it all red? Say it's a non bleed dye, wouldn't the core be that bone/yellowish color? How do you explain the consistent fade? I've only seen airbrushing do that kind of fade and I doubt that's how they did it. I like what @Basseducer said but the measurements and how much you inject would have to be PRECISE. It's not impossible though. I might have to give it a try and experiment.
  14. Thanks for all the replies so far. What a well kept secret they have. I think it looks awesome and I can imagine all the different colors you could make with this fading color. AWESOME! The fading colors are perfect and consistent too! Good job Creme.
  15. @Canga~ are you able to make laminates with your 3" ripper mold? Do you use a plate or dual injector?
  16. @Canga~Thanks for the reply. Do you know if the cnc version will have a shiny finish? I'm guessing yes but I've heard some doit molds have a dull finish.
  17. @MonteSS Is this the one you're talking about? http://stores.jacobsbaits.com/paddle-tail-1-3-4-bait-mold-10-cavity/
  18. If you've been to the Walmart fishing section, the chances are you've seen this bait by Creme. It's the Creme, Live Color plastic worm. Any idea how they have the two colors fading on it? Thanks in advance! https://www.walmart.com/ip/Creme-Plastic-Worms-4-ct-Pack/17163410
  19. Thanks brother! I'll take a look at their molds!
  20. Does anyone know of a good 2 inch swim bait injection mold?
  21. I'm glad you figured out the problem! Does anyone else think it's weird how the hot plastisol doesn't ooze out of the vent holes? Is the plastic cooling before it gets a chance to ooze out?
  22. I too would like to know if heat stabilizers are compatible. I have Bait Plastics plastisol and am looking into buying LureWorks' heat stabilizer. Are they ok to use together?
  23. Let's say, for one mold, your baits + sprue + runner = 100 grams. Pour plastisol into a measuring cup until it reaches 100 grams too (or a little more for good measure). Now you know how many fluid ounces that mold takes to fill. Since you haven't actually made the mold yet, I would make one cavity and see how much that bait weighs and then multiply that by however many cavities you want and then use the same method above to see how many fluid ounces the mold would take to fill. I'm new to soft plastics. This is just what I would do so maybe the veterans can chime in too.
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