Doc Nemo
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Posts posted by Doc Nemo
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Hi! Where does everyone order their polycarbonate for custom crankbait bills? What thickness do you all find works best? Thanks!
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Hi gang,
I know that most of everyone has airbrushed with chartreuse fluorescent acrylic paint at one time or another. Recently, I have noticed that when I use it, it'll often 'bleed' over the other paint after I final clear coat everything. This doesn't happen immediately, but usually after using the lures fishing sometimes weeks to months later. I first noticed on a sexy shad pattern I put on a glide bait. This doesn't happen with any other paint that I have/use (all createx acrylics). Just a heads up, for my process, I clear coat my wood lure bodies with a water-based polyurethane, prime with white then paint, after drying I dip in a water-based spar. Once fully cured (24-72 hours, depending on weather its hot and humid down here!). I final clear coat with Alumi-UV.
Any thoughts of what could be making the fluorescent paint bleed like this? It's not terrible, but definitely noticeable with a black light.
Cheers,
Nemo
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I agree, Createx colors are great! I seal my timber with a simple water-based polyurethane then paint, and protect with another layer of spar urethane, and finish with Alumi-UV.
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Lureparts online makes a plastic fish scale netting. Also, at craft stores, most of them have a wire mesh, although it is metal and can sometimes scratch unprotected paint. I like to use the bathroom scrubbers, simply cutout center staple and unravel. It stretches, so you can adjust scale sizes.
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10 hours ago, Chuck Young said:
I had concerns about the speed of the curing until I realized that you could let it level on the rotissere as long as needed before yu trned on the lights,
Good point, if you put on turner, it'll not only even out resin but reduce the number of bubbles. Although you can't see them, the tiny bubbles accumulate quickly when curing, especially around eyes. I learned about this the hard way, so now each lure is turned for about 10 minutes before I expose them to the light.
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All, just a follow-up. I ended purchasing their PURE-UV bulbs for my setup. Made a world of difference, as I can fully cure a lure in about 10 minutes tops now
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I make a majority of my top-waters' on the lathe. A few nuances to it, but very fun and relatively easy once you get the hang of it. What types of questions do you have?
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On 3/25/2019 at 8:28 AM, Vodkaman said:
I have no experience with UV cured resin, but have built an Eprom burner in the past.
From what I have read, cure should be complete in minutes. Keep in mind that if you double the distance from the lamp then the lamp power is reduced x8. I cannot tell the distance of the lamp from the lure, but you should try and reduce the distance to the absolute minimum to get maximum power.
I suggest do some tests with scrap wood or even cocktail sticks dipped in the resin, and find the ideal curing distance.
Report back whether success or failure. Tell us the distance that works.
Dave
So, I found that distance has big effect on curing times with my current setup. At 1 inch from light source, the popsicle stick resin cured in 1 hour. At 4 inches 2 hours, and 8 inches 3 hours. Those are still long curing times for this type of resin, so I'm now looking into getting different bulbs that match frequency of my flashlight, as the black light flashlight cures this resin in less than a minute.
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1 hour ago, BobP said:
Yeah, I don’t think a hard cured coating of epoxy under the uv resin would make any difference but I would be concerned if my resin took hours to cure under the proper uv light or in sunshine (which contains all uv light frequencies).
I've been using a black light to cure same resin on some rear treble dressings with no issues. Not sure what happened with that first batch of lures. I did find that the light source that I have does work. I played around with different distances and found that the closer I am to the source the faster it cures. I've come to the conclusion that the lights I have are high enough output but bulbs not the best UV frequency for this resin. I will look into getting some black light bulbs for the T5 fixtures in same wavelength as my flashlight. That should do it, hopefully!
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On 3/26/2019 at 10:36 AM, Nathan said:
I wonder if you needed to mix the Alumni up..I had some Solrez do the same thing to me one time..Nathan
I will try that, I would assume its a homogenized mixture. But some extra mixing certainly wouldn't hurt.
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3 hours ago, BobP said:
You can always set the lure outside in the sunshine to cure, which works even on a cloudy day. The closer your bulbs are to the lure, the stronger dose of UV they will get. UV cure resins have a specific UV wavelength that cures them fastest and your light may or may not be optimized for it, but probably puts out enough energy in the required spectrum to get the job done, if Alumilite says it will.
Thanks, I did put the lures out into the sun, and they still did not cure. I think it may have something to do with the fact that I already had a coat of epoxy on them, which may have interfered with the curing process. To test this, I put a popsicle stick with resin in the UV box I made, and it cured after 2 hours. I'll test some distance effects later this evening. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks!
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2 hours ago, mark poulson said:
I use a UV cure finger nail light, standing on it's end so the open mouth is up. I use Solarez UV Dual Cure resin, and I rotate my lures every 30 seconds. They cure hard in three minutes. If it begins to take longer, I know it's time to replace the bulbs.
I've looked into these, I contacted the grow light company about getting stronger bulbs. I could even order some black light bulbs to mimic a nail polish dryer for my fixtures.
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2 hours ago, Vodkaman said:
I have no experience with UV cured resin, but have built an Eprom burner in the past.
From what I have read, cure should be complete in minutes. Keep in mind that if you double the distance from the lamp then the lamp power is reduced x8. I cannot tell the distance of the lamp from the lure, but you should try and reduce the distance to the absolute minimum to get maximum power.
I suggest do some tests with scrap wood or even cocktail sticks dipped in the resin, and find the ideal curing distance.
Report back whether success or failure. Tell us the distance that works.
Dave
Good point, I will test out distance effects on some popsicle sticks tonight. I did do a test run on a stick last night at the distance I have already setup (~6 inches), and it did fully cure after a couple of hours. I could hypothesize the time could be reduced at 3", given the lamp power would be increased by a factor of 8? Also, the old lures I tested, I think the curing problem may have also been related to the 2-part epoxy top-coat over them already. The residues may have interfered with the curing process, as they sat in sun all day yesterday and remained sticky. I'll update everyone on the distance/popsicle test to be performed tonight. Thanks!
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3 hours ago, mark poulson said:
For me, the lures need continual exposure to the UV light to cure. I have not used Alumi-UV but I have used Solarez Dual Cure resin for years.
Be sure your UV lights are the right frequency for the resin you're using. Just because a light is UV doesn't mean it's what that resin needs.
Thanks! The bulbs I purchased were recommended by the Alumilite site, 365nm range. They are on the smaller side, 24 watts each, 3000k. Who knows, I’ll try a longer cure time tonight on a spare blank. I’ll let you know what I find.
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Hi, I had a question/concern about the UV cure resin Alumi-UV. I was hoping you all could help, and provide some insight. I recently got into lure making and was interested in a UV-cure resin setup for convenience. I've used two-part epoxy and had success, but just hoping to speed things up. Attached is currently what I'm working with. I am using Alumilite's UV cure resin. I purchased two T5 grow fixtures to make a UV-sandwich for the lures. I was thinking about even adding another on the bottom of the setup and covering with glass in case of dripping. Last night I was testing everything out, and noticed that even after a 2 hour sit, the lures were still wet to the touch. I was sure to flip the position after an hour to ensure all sides got a good does of light. I may have put too thick of a coat on. Also, maybe my lights are too far apart, not strong enough? Once exposed to UV, will the lures eventually cure on their on after removing from light? Any help would be much appreciated!
Polycorbonate Sheets for Bills
in Hard Baits
Posted
Thanks! That's what I needed to know.