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McDerpface

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About McDerpface

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  • Birthday May 20

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  • Location
    India
  • Interests
    Carving, fishing, making stuff

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  1. About to start work on a combination of a diving popper and a segmented glidebait, with the objective of catching some barramundis, king mackerels or jacks. Do you think very long epoxied-in screw eyes would hold up to these target species?
  2. This has been a confusing thread, as I've had to go through conversion tables several times to figure out the thicknesses you've been talking about. I think I've got it, though. 1-2mm ought to work just fine on any crankbait, right?
  3. I haven't used any syringes, mainly because they freak me out. Won't go into any more details. The temperature here has varied better 20-30 C, and the humidity has been all over the place. It's at 70% now. I'm guessing the finishing on the surface may have also affected the epoxy too. I probably should have sanded down the unpainted lure some more. That said, I think that this batch has come out alright. They are (from top to bottom) The Nebuchadnezzar, The Seasick Trout, The Flopper, The Leper, and The Sunburnt Irishman. The last two are squids and I'm still waiting for the skirts in the mail.
  4. Well, the paint's dry. Very dry. Left it overnight. Therefore, must've been my hands.
  5. I've got a bunch of lures turning right now, and I can see fish eyes developing. Just wanted to check whether my fixing idea is good enough. Just to give some background, I've got an assortment of crankbaits and poppers on the rack, hand painted (don't have an airbrush) with acrylic paints. This first clear coat is with 24 hour epoxy, and I honestly didn't know that contaminants from my hands could cause divots to form in the epoxy. Live and learn, I guess. What I'm thinking of doing tomorrow, once this lot's hardened, is sand them down a little, then give the lures a quick rub down with a bit of soapy water on some tissue paper (I'll be wearing gloves this time) to get rid of any contaminants. Then I'm going to wipe them down with a damp bit of tissue, then dry them off. Once all this is done, the second coat goes on. Do you think this will work?
  6. Actually, I learned that superglue seals it well and epoxy coats it nicely too.
  7. Not sure about stronger materials, I'm afraid. I've been tweaking the model for a while to get it to take a through wire. I figure that material strength is irrelevant when using a wire that goes all the way through. Would you like the 3D model when I've figured it out?
  8. Front view of 3d printed popper
  9. My 3d printed popper. 11 centimeters long and 20 grams in weight. The design is mine, made in Blender and Tinkercad, and printed in PLA. Twisted wire eyes for the line tie and hook hangers. This is still an experiment, so I still have to work on sealing, painting, and clearcoating. Also want to test and find out its breaking point, so this won't be intact for long. Will update when finished. Edit: The lure failed under a load of 16 kilograms (35.2 lbs). However, the failure occurred along a weak line, an incompletely fused layer, and so I assume that with a good print, the lure will be able to handle another 2 to 3 kilograms.
  10. Personally, I love baking soda and superglue. It's cheap, easy, and it sets like a rock.
  11. I've been wondering about the types of wire one can use. I've had very little luck finding actual marine grade SS wire, so I've been using dental SS wire instead. The stuff's tough and hard, and it seems to hold up, so I was wondering if anyone else has considered using it and what you think of it.
  12. Hello everyone. I'm Maurice, from South India. I'm mainly into making hardbaits for saltwater fishing, so I figured I could learn a thing or two here. Looking forward to the chance.
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