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keakar last won the day on October 21 2019

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  1. im told that just about any regular version plastic, as-is right out of the bottle, will be harder and stronger then store bought baits i find bait plastics has the best prices and they have a saltwater medium hardness that i bet is just what you are looking for you can use any plastic and add hardener or softener to get it just the way you want it so dont worry too much about getting the perfect premix right out of the bottle
  2. yes but bottom line is its easier, cheaper and 5x faster to do it with regular injection molds so unless you just like wasting money, buying a centrifugal spin mold setup is only worth it for large manufacturers making 100k baits a week thats all we are trying to tell him with enough time and practice you can do all the different tail laminates and probably do them as fast as with a regular injection mold, but there is still no way to do the top and bottom half laminates as far as i know
  3. centrifugal spin cast molds are for pouring lead not plastics
  4. you just have to mix it differently, you are mixing the bubbles into it so try using a drill with mixing type rod bottom line, your solution is in how you mix it, you have to do it so there arent any bubbles
  5. the ribs pour easy without issue, its not a problem with trapped air in the ribs as you think by looking at it because the molds have all the vents they need to fill completely
  6. just pour the tail color, cut off tails and leave in mold, then pour the main body color. dipping tails is the lazy way and not the best results to doing it the right way with actual lure color
  7. this ^^^^^ not all plastics are the same, some hard pack and you must dig up and get the sediments off the bottom and mixed in well once you get it mixed well all you have to do is remix it regularly each day so it doesnt repack on you
  8. it may just be you arent starting with hot enough plastic, but more likely you just need to warm the molds first. whats happening is the plastic is cooling too fast and getting hard, or you arent holding pressure on the injector so it fills completely. as for fixing the mold, all you have to do is ,make the vent lines for the tail slightly bigger. with that mold just find a small drill bit just a little bigger then the hole and drill it out one size bigger. dont go crazy with it, only use one size bigger, then if needed be go up one more size. you dont want it any bigger then it needs to be
  9. baitmold.com sells them and i just got one. i never got any notice when, or even if, it was shipped, but it arrived in about 3 weeks time as mentioned the stone isnt a smooth shiny cavity surface so it makes baits with dull finish unless the mold gets lubed first the downside is they are thin so if dropped on hard floor it may break, and if you clamp them too hard it "could" cause deformation because the stone isnt rigid stone like it appears to be so it can warp from the heat over time so not a lifetime mold like with cnc aluminum is. the mold cavities can also be sealed to create smooth baits just like they do with POP molds
  10. keakar

    Olive Oil

    check the date eric, this thread is 12 years old since the last comment, everyone overlooks that sometimes lol. any way, if its my own personal stuff i use a drop of veggie oil in the bag. when exposed to water it will come right off and leave no scent at all. as for flour and hooks thats old wives tail to absorb moisture to prevent rusting and there is truth to it but its far easier and less messy to just use raw uncooked rice instead
  11. yes its naturally clear as for not fully filling use a "little" more pressure or hold pressure longer when you pour after you feel it stop whats going on is its cooling before its fully filled if holding pressure does help then maybe you need to get it a little bit hotter temp before pouring
  12. just use common sense on the pressure, think of it like a can of soda ready to squirt out, if you give it a reason or chance to it will squirt out melted plastic and nothing on earth hurts worse if it gets on your skin and you cannot remove it until it finishes burning you and cools off. short answer is when in doubt dont apply more pressure unless you have issues with deformed baits a good safety precaution is a BBQ/cooking apron, might look or feel silly wearing it but the first time it stops hot plastic from getting on your shirt and/or through it you will be happy you had it on i would venture to say the only time people get hot plastic squirting back out at you is because they are rushing and trying to force it into the molds too fast. if you think the molds are filling too slowly then enlarge the gate but dont try to force it in. PS - im an amateur rookie as well just sharing things i have learned
  13. yep, it just needs a flat spot to glue it to so an exacto knife can do that for you quickly
  14. everything i see they glue the eyes on after molding then dip the frog in clear plastic to seal it in i really love those eyes by the way
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