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Chonch12

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  1. The Fly tying books are both from the early 1950's the one on the left is in pretty good shape. The box set is from the from 1971 and basically new, seems like they were never out of the Box Sleeve and opened. I thought they were interesting and wanted to share
  2. Great advice again. Thanks so much. Back to the shop this weekend, hope churn out another set similar to these.
  3. First thank you for the comment, always like to get feedback and advice on how to improve. I was looking to get these in the 4-8 ft diving range. so more of a mid dive. As for the action I also like the tight fast action the best like the 2nd video. Although I am not against the slow wide wobble, so this was good to know for the future. I used a DT6 as a very basic comparison when drawing out this design. The problem was the final product did not quite match the drawing. I have some trouble with my band saw cutting straight so my lip angle moved compared to what I originally measured. I drew it out as 40 degrees using the middle of the lure as my axis meeting point. It came out to be 30 degrees. This is something I have been trying to figure out with my tools, how to get more precise. I think I just need to go a little slower and sand to completion to get exactly what I want. I purchased the lips pre made because I was having a lot of problems making a perfect symmetrical lip cutting and sanding myself. I have a few sizes Size 5 (1 3/4" x 1 1/16") Lexan Lips - Rounded Style Size 1 (1 1/4" x 7/8") Lexan Lips - Rounded Style Size 3 (1 3/8" x 1") Lexan Lips - Rounded Style The ones used on the lures are the 1 3/8 x 1. I will be sure to do this, pool will also be clean so it will be much more visible. Tested them the same day my wife and I opened the pool
  4. Thank you for the positive feedback, I appreciate it. You are correct that the more issues I run into and learn to solve the better I will be the next time. It's actually funny to see my first creations compared to this most recent batch. a few months and they are night and day with improvements. This forum has been a great tool as well.
  5. This is a great breakdown. Thank you very much. The picture is slightly deceiving the way they are laying, but you are correct in that the one I am having the most trouble with is not symmetrical and the lip is slightly off center. I will take the advice and see if I can tune it into something that works. I moved to pre made lips because I had a ton of trouble making my own and making them perfect. Any thoughts on the action of the other 3 lures? I know they also have some flaws but always like to get some feedback. Thanks again
  6. Any particular reason? I was thinking about trying KBS but price was holding me back
  7. Thanks, this will float up and sit balanced it's only when I retrieve it will try and fop to the side... makes me wonder about my positioning of the weight, too close or far from the front
  8. Hello, Newer to crafting my own lures but have read a ton of information from this Forum, so thank you. My recent batch of 4 lures I was tinkering with line ties through the bill and above. 3 of the 4 turned out decent. However the one likes to turn on its side on the retrieve. Would this most likely be caused by not having the weight centered in the bottom? Or something else I may be missing. The line tie and lip appears to be perfectly centered, especially when comparing to the other 3. The other thing I am thinking is the Etex coat may be heavy on the one side. I did 3 thin layers Any advice, thoughts, or help on these would be greatly appreciated. I welcome all criticism as I try to learn every new batch I make. Only started this hobby over the winter. Here is a link for some pictures and videos of their action in the water. https://imgur.com/gallery/JSg97CF Thank you again
  9. Thanks I just had one of my extra lead ingots there for now but a small can like that is a good idea
  10. This was the answer, I had the setting way too high. My lead was glowing red on 8, turned it down to about 4.5 and it pours, but doesnt burn or smoke the wood. Sets quickly and perfect, Thanks!
  11. Hello, Finally purchased a Lee Lead pot with pour spout. I was putting lead into my first bait and the wood began to smoke, burn, and turn black. I let ist set in a vice and it jsut kept smoking staying liquid. Ive watched videos and cannot find any where someone pours into a wooden bait and has problems. Marling Baits seems to pour then cut the scene. I used a screwdriver to try and shock/lower the temp and have it set faster. Is there a trick I am missing to lower the temp faster so it hardens and doesn't burn my wood or at least lowers the temp quicker so it hardens? Thank you
  12. Hello! First thank you for all of the incredible information here. I picked up making my own custom lures as a hobby this winter and really fell in love with it more than anticipated. Just picked up a used Lee Lead pot! No more random Terminal tackle haha. I really enjoy crafting and coming up with something super unique. With every batch (about 3-4 I do at a time) I learn and see big improvements from the last. One thing that I have been struggling with is seeing Grain imperfections even though I will have it as smooth as possible with 400 grit paper. I have been sealing with Super Thin Super Glue and giving it another light sanding but when I paint so many imperfections some through. I am looking to get that super smooth glass like surface to paint on, I've seen it on so many incredible custom lures. After a lot of reading there was some great advice to do a 2/3 Etex, Alcohol mix as a seal and undercoat. This works well however takes a long time on the turner to cure. I was reading about Solarez and decided to give the POLYESTER UV-CURE GRAIN SEALER a try. I just got the small bottle the other day and did a quick test on a piece of scrap wood. Dug my fingernail into it, made some other marks to see how it would perform. I was really impressed. 2 light coats, a super light sand and it was super smooth. I was not able to get a coat of paint on it yet to see if it really hides the imperfections. Anyone else use this product as an undercoat and sealer? Any tips or tricks? I know it says do a thin coat and basically “Squeegee” off excess, however that isn’t possible with lures or non flat surfaces. Anyone have some recommendations? I mainly use Basswood and Pine as they are both cheapest and easiest to come by for me. One last question, I recently tried carving some fins and gills into a swim bait I was making. When I seal the bait I am worried this will seal it flat and take away all of my work. Should I just use a basic polyurethane to seal this wood or will a really light Super Glue or Solarez do the trick? Thanks in advance,
  13. Sounds like an impressive lure. Although look at it this way you ahve a great structure on making the same thing just reduce the overall scale. Any pics???
  14. I agree for the most part. Createx especially the pearls I thin down. Wicked I do not need to thin down the Detail colors, however the regular Wicked Line I will very sightly thin, like 90/10 ratio. I also agree color matters as some are thicker/thinner then others.
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