Big Epp

Have you bought from this site? I'm always interested in new sources.

And you can find some of the tail doodads here: https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Skirts-Rattles-Dressings/Skirt-Making-Materials/Silicone-Material?page=1

You can find some different collars here, though not exactly the same: https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Skirts-Rattles-Dressings/Skirt-Making-Materials/Collars?page=1

I just watched a video of the hellhound's action. If i was going to make one, I'd find the center of balance, then move equidistant in each direction with an even amount of weight (so 2 holes for weight) to get the desired float level. Might even use 3 holes, with weight at the center of balance and on each side of it. I know this reply is a bit late, how did whatever you did turn out?

I've seen a lot of people use maple or poplar for swimbaits. Something very buoyant like cedar, redwood, or basswood will take a ton of lead, whereas something more dense won't need nearly as much. A tradeoff is the maple is much harder to carve than basswood. A lot of people will use different types of wood for different types of baits, and wood density can have a significant impact on lure function. The buoyancy of the wood works with the drag of the lip on crankbaits to impart action, gliders use the mass of the bait and the hydrodynamics of the profile to create a good glide, and so it goes.

Don't ever, EVER lick melted lead.

We're down here now, but on the west end of the island. Our part of the surf has a decent trough before the first sandbar, and I haven't found any cuts in the bar nearby. I also left my big surf rod back home so I could fit everyone's pole, so I can't cast past the bar. I've been using a double dropper rig with a small hook on each dropper baited with fishbites. Then instead of a sinker I've got a ¾oz jig with a white grub tail (also tipped with fishbites). I'm not trying that hard, but with 3 hooks you certainly can't say I'm not trying!

Some of the lipless cranks I've made using barrel weights I'll put 1 weight on the center of balance and another about half way to the nose.

I found this picture that might be helpful.

I fish mostly bass in the nidwest US, and I've really been enjoying a sunfish/bluegill pattern. So I guess my list would be: 1) Crayfish 2) bluegill 3) brown back, cream sides, light green belly 4) blue back, silver sides, pink belly 5) can't think of a 5th... should probably go sleep... something very shaddy I suppose. Great question. Nice to see everyone's ideas!

Ha! Right you are Dave. I'm working on a bunch of rats right now as well as a yellow bass wake bait. This old thread was just the ticket!

I think @Outlaw4 has a good point about the weight. Keeping the weight down in the lure close to the belly might help keep it from rolling over and help it swim more upright. Generally speaking, keeping the lure sitting level can be really helpful. I've made some that sat nose up or down and still swam fine, but level is generally the way to go.

Both are really cool! I always enjoy seeing the stuff people come up with. It's always challenging and inspiring. Great work, and good luck when it does come around!

Feelin itchy now that you finished that death walker?

Do you pour your baits in 2 parts, or pour 1 bait and then cut it?

I do like using hardwoods for glide baits though, explicitly because it takes so much less lead to balance it. I tried making a couple subsurface gliders out of redwood (which is crazy boyouant) and it took something like 10lbs of lead to get them to slow sink...

I also like using cedar, and also redwood. Part of that is I have an ample supply from various construction projects over the past couple years... The part about cedar that i find can make it tough to carve is the very different density of the hard and soft growth rings. I have mostly red cedar. There is variation from piece to piece in this too. Overall though it is easy to saw and shape, it's pretty strong and durable, and it is very boyant. Another plus is how nice the shop smells when the dust settles! (I use a respirator to keep the dust from settling in my lungs). Overall though I take a very utilitarian approach, and use whatever I have handy. As other have mentioned, each type of wood has its own characteristics and quirks, and I find it fun navigating that variability. I've used oak, pine(s of all sorts), pvc, basswood, maple, cedar, redwood, etc...

I was a guy on YouTube who uses modeling clay to make masters for molds. I wonder if this would work similarly? Seems like a neat product.