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fishordie79

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  1. @21xdc is this the one you use? Also, I've tried an automotive clear coat in the past, although it wasn't KBS and required a hardener. The problem with that one was the fumes. I do a lot of bait finishing in my basement and my wife was rather unimpressed at the smell of that stuff:) How bad are the fumes/smell with KBS in your opinion? @Slammingjackthanks for the tip!
  2. @21xdc Understood. Any ideas on how many baits (subject to size of course) you can get out of a pint of KBS? Not sure if I should just go with a pint or spring for the gallon.
  3. Agreeing with mostly everything said here and also what @Vodkaman said above but I will caveat this with the fact that when I started I thought I had everything I needed to make lures but have now added so many things along the way that I deem essential that it really is somewhat subjective. We all have our areas of expertise and specific styles of baits that we make more than others and what one determines to be essential another may find non-essential. So, to get to the core of the question and answer it as best as possible, maybe ask your son what kind of baits he would like to make and let us know. I'll bet we can give you a more targeted and useful answer once we have that data. Until then, my essentials are the following: Band saw, Dremel Tool with sanding and cutting bits, 316L steel wire or something similar for making hook hangers and line ties or just buy them from somewhere like lurepartsonline.com, a vice, various grits of sandpaper from course to very fine, a good airbrush with a .35mm or smaller tip (allows you to get in close when painting details), airbrush paints ( I use Createx brand but there are many good ones), airbrush cleaner and restorer....also reducer, airbrush compressor (really do your research on this one), man....what else......that should get you started until he lets you know what kind of lures he wants to make. Oh, and one more thing, it's awesome that your son wants to get into this and that you are supporting him in doing so. It is a very rewarding hobby that is tremendously fun and this community is your best resource for help along the way. He will make mistakes. However, so much work and planning goes into every build that each time he makes a mistake he will learn a hard lesson from it that will undoubtedly make him think about it and improve the next time around. The best part for you will be enjoying the look on his face when he pulls in that first fish on his very own lure. Tight lines you guys!
  4. @BobP Thanks for the compliment!
  5. @21xdc @BobP Thanks guys! Sounds like KBS is the way to go but I do have a question about it. How do the "dip method" clear coats not dry into a cone, for lack of a better word, as the bait is hanging? Or should I dip the bait and then put it on a rotating drier?
  6. Hey TU Folks! Well after months of renovations my shop is done and I am finally able to get back to work. Been working on some jig head designs and my first real build since getting back at it turned out really well (images below). Through the help of this site and it’s members I have gotten much more comfortable in this hobby so thank you all. So although I have a pretty good process for removing bubbles in my epoxy I still don’t get them all and that annoys me. As I’m sure you can all understand I want the clear coat to be as perfect as possible after having spent so much time on a project. So, my question is, which epoxy, in your experience, is less prone to leaving bubbles in your projects? Is there any one that is better than the others where this is concerned? Thanks and tight lines!
  7. @blackjack Man those turned out awesome! My workshop is still being renovated so I am out of the action for the next couple of weeks. Once it’s done it’s game on!
  8. If WTP can't help you and you can't find another solution let me know and I can likely make some for you.
  9. Hey TU Folks! I ordered some medium density PU boards the other day and wanted to report my initial impression of them here. I first came across these when watching the Solar Baits guy making a European Bream master in his video "How I made the Gliding Bream" on YT. I noticed when he was carving detail the carving process was extremely smooth, with no splintering as you sometimes get with wood, and it seemed as if the material was extremely easy to shape and sand. So I decided to order some and give it a try. What I can say thus far is that this stuff is really nice for making masters. Because there is no grain you don't run into snags while carving and the material is hard while also being extremely easy to carve accurately. You really can just work around your guide lines with ease and do not have to worry about catching the blade and digging it in too far. I am really impressed thus far. The down side is that it is pretty darn expensive. The board I bought is 2 feet long X 1 foot wide x 1.5 inches thick and cost me around $75. I am currently in the processor renovating my workshop so once I have that project complete I will get a completed master carved out of this stuff and report back to you guys and gals.
  10. @mark poulson You do not. Just build the mold box and pour in my experience.
  11. @mark poulson @JRammit Thank you both for the information! Good things learned from the both of you. Just for the heck of it I tried some 2 part automotive clear coat and that actually worked really well. I don't think I'll use it as a go to but something to keep in mind.
  12. @JRammit Got the UV clear coat on the way. Is this a "dip and hang" substance or do I need to put the lures on a drier to cure?
  13. Just want to say thank you to each an every one of you. You have been integral in my success and advancement in this amazing hobby and I wish you and your families all the best in 2020. Tight lines, big fish, and all that you hope for in the new year!
  14. @JRammit Thanks for the reply and suggestion man! Based on what I have seen others doing online I will need to build a UV tank for this or? Not an issue if need be and it seems to me that using UV Poly is a faster and more effective method for jig heads than epoxy is. I could do multiple coats much faster won't have to wait a whole day between applying subsequent coats.
  15. @mark poulson I've got a couple of jig heads yet to be epoxied. I'll give them the nail polish treatment and let you know how they turn out. I am assuming they need to be put on a drier to cure?
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