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fishordie79

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fishordie79 last won the day on November 9

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About fishordie79

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  1. Amazing work! Really awesome and inspiring stuff man.
  2. I am still afraid to try hand carving detail because I don't want to ruin a body. I can't imagine how long that took to carve.....
  3. That is....simply amazing. The amount of detail, the creativeness...I mean....dude..........wow. Amazing work that I can only aspire to one day be able to achieve. That is incredible. Awesome job!
  4. Okay so an update to this post.I took the bait out and tested it this afternoon and, although it does have a nice arc and glide action it is unstable and difficult to control. I am almost positive I screwed up by putting so much lead in the middle of the CoB and pouring it too deep into the body. I saw a great video on YouTube where a guy was demonstrating how to weigh glide baits and, well, I did not do as he suggested.....So I think I am going to remove the lead, fill in the holes, re-position, and try again while also considering any responses I may get from you all.
  5. Hello TU Community! I have built a nice glide bait body the I intend to do a "real Tench" paint scheme on. Thanks to you guys I have found the center of balance/gravity of the lure and want to begin drilling my holes. Using some 10 gram jig heads taped to the side of the bait I did some sink tests and determined that it needs about 35 grams of lead. My question is this: How should I distribute this weight across the lure so that I achieve that wide, gliding "S" action? I'm thinking that I need to place the majority of the weight at the center of balance, with the rest distributed at one centimeter intervals toward the head and the tail. If I do it this way, however, I will have to drill a deep, almost to the middle of the body, 10cm hole for lead right where I determined the CoB to be. I keep reading that weight on a glide bait should be placed low in the body so I don't know if this is a good idea. In order to achieve that nice gliding action is it better to put more weight toward the center of the body or distribute it across? Thanks so much!
  6. @jigmeister @BobP @Vodkaman Great suggestions and thank you all!! @Vodkaman what CAD software are you using?
  7. Hey there TU community! I made a glide bait body tonight that I am really happy about and I was thinking about the best way to weight it so that it sinks parallel and relatively slowly. I see a lot of people talking about "center of buoyancy" and I was wondering if you guys could give me some suggestions on some good methods of finding this. What I have done until this point is just kind of eye the bait, drill holes where I think they need to be, pour some lead and then do a swim test. Then I just add or reduce weight how I see fit until I achieve the sink rate/position I am looking for. This has worked fairly well thus far but there has to be a more scientific approach to this. What do you guys suggest?
  8. Hi @alsworms and thank you for the response and suggestion! When I click on "profile" and then on the picture in the lower left it only gives me the option to edit my actual profile picture. What I am trying to do is change the greenish crystalized??? looking picture that makes up the background of my profile. That one I can't seem to figure out.
  9. I apologize if this has been asked before but I could not find an answer in the forums. Does anyone know how to change the background image on your profile? I have seen some members that have managed it but can't find any options in the "Edit Profile" section to allow me to do it. Thanks in advance!
  10. So the last bait I did, after allowing the epoxy to cure a bit and then applying a couple more coats, turned out perfectly! I really think that my epoxy has an issue with the Createx paints. I am going to try the clear coat after paint method and see if the first coat of epoxy goes on smoothly next time. Thanks to all!
  11. @OIR I use one cup to mix and two syringes for each part of the epoxy. I will try the two cup method next time. Thanks!!
  12. First of all let me say.....what a great community! I got into this bait making thing because I love fishing, being creative, and I wanted to do something that I could share with other fishermen. Thank you all for the responses! @SlowFISH I think you are very likely correct. I just checked on the bait after about 12 hours and it looks magnificent! I think that first thin coat of cured epoxy sealed the painted surface and allowed the subsequent coats of epoxy to go on smoothly. I will definitely be trying the clear coat method on the next build. Thank you so much for your input! @BobP The epoxies that I am using are both rated very good here and, as you suggest, I am allowing them to sit after mixing to the point that most bubbles pop and the little remaining ones float to the surface. I use syringes to measure and mix for at least three minutes. Thank you so much for your input! @eastman03 Thank you! When I first started airbrushing I had a hell of a time trying to figure out the right amount of reducer to paint, how to use stencils properly, etc., and to hear another bait maker say that my paint looks good is extremely satisfying. The lures that I have completed thus far were all done in a room that was about 18 degrees Celsius so I will look into both of your suggestions where warm water and a lamp are concerned. This is one of the most satisfying (although frustrating at the same time:) endeavors I have ever undertaken. I will definitely be sticking with it and hope to converse more with you in the future. @mark poulson Thank you for the original response! I saw your name in several of the posts I looked at in the forums and I thank you for helping folks like me get better at this awesome hobby!
  13. Hi bigblue2, For a couple of reasons. First, I personally like the look of epoxy finish better. Second, I fish for pike often. From what I have read it takes several coats of polyurethane to reach the same thickness that you can when using one or two coats of epoxy. Not sure if this is a fact but if so it means that I get more of a protective barrier to shield the wood from those 600+ razors in the pike's mouth. Also, I have about a gallon of epoxy and it wasn't cheap:)
  14. I made the bait pictures below last night and immediately after applying the epoxy it began fisheyeing and curing unevenly. So I let the epoxy cure a bit, used a new brush to wipe as much of it off as I could, and then let the remaining epoxy cure. This morning I applied another coat of epoxy to the bait and it went on evenly and remained that way. Of course there are some divots where the previously applied epoxy did not coat evenly but I figure I will keep applying thin coats of epoxy until those divots are filled in. Then maybe the bait won't have been a waste of time.
  15. Hello Mark and thank you for responding. I have tried two different brands of epoxy with the same result. The first is called Dipon, which I believe is manufactured in Germany. The second is called Resin4Decor which is apparently a high grade epoxy resin. See images below. I purchased both of these from amazon.de (Germany) as I am a US ex-pat living in Germany. I should also mentioned that I have tried applying the epoxy with both brushes and a gloved finger but have gotten the same result with each method, and I am using Createx paints with Createx 4030 reducer.
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