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fishordie79

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fishordie79 last won the day on November 17

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About fishordie79

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  1. fishordie79

    Cedar squarebills16.jpg

    Nice man! Clean airbrush skills!
  2. Thanks @Anglinarcher! I'll give it a try and see what happens!
  3. @Vodkaman Dave, I believe strongly in the principles of change of direction when lure fishing for predators. There is a great bait on the market now from a company called Gunki, which I am sure you are familiar with. The lure is called the Scunner and is a jointed hard bait with a very slow sink rate. A slow retrieve sees the bait behaving like a swim bait with a smooth glide, but give it a hard twitch and the bait flies off to the side as if darting away from impending attack. I have been very successful using these baits and am going to attempt replicating one in the future.
  4. Goodness man that is amazing!
  5. Hey TU Folks! I was making some silicone molds the other day and noticed up on a shelf that I have a ton of pigments that I rarely use. I've been tossing around the idea of a hard bait with plastic or rubber fins and was wondering: Does anyone know whether or not adding these (mica powder) pigments to clear silicone hinders the silicone's ability to set properly? I was thinking I could just order some clear silicone and add the pigments to make fins for hard baits. Have any of you ever tried this or have a better method of making fins? Thanks!
  6. Hey @eastman03 I forgot to mention. I simplified my process by eliminating the need for the wooden block. screws, and glue stick. I basically just built a shallow frame out of Legos, maybe 25cm X 25cm, and poured a thin layer of silicone into it, maybe a half a centimeter thick. Now instead of gluing the eyes to the screws I just lay them out onto the silicone and then drop the epoxy directly onto them. Any epoxy you get onto the silicone just pops right off after its dry. Also, as long as you have the silicone on a flat surface the eyes will always dry flat and not to one side or the other if you screw isn't perfectly straight. Oh, and you can also use the waterslide paper to make little decals with your initials or logo on them which you can then stick to the underside of the bait before the epoxy process:)
  7. As @azsouth and others have stated here I think a lot of it boils down to simply trusting the bait you are throwing. similar to any product one has trust in you just find something that works and you go with it. That said, and more specifically to your question, all companies are going to have patterns and colors that are similar across their product lines so in my opinion the company that produced the bait is not as important many other factors. @azsouth and @JD_mudbug eluded to the uniqueness of a pattern/color being important where fish may have seen many varieties of the mass produced stuff hundreds of times. This is definitely an important consideration for me. In pressured waters I want to start out throwing something that the fish have not gotten smart to. Sure, you're gonna catch fish using patterns and colors similar to what others throwing but a unique looking morsel may be exactly what that lunker requires to abandon the thought process that has allowed him to get so big int the first place. I do a lot of pike fishing. When pike get big they tend to begin acting like musky in that they don't just go after anything that swims in front of them. Probably the most important thing for me when I am painting a lure that I know I will be throwing for big pike is the ability to "match the hatch" if you will. For big pike, especially those that are used to seeing lures, what better way to take the guesswork out of what color or pattern they might want than to just match what they are already eating? Tight lines man!
  8. Nice man! Those look great brother. Yeah man a sharp leather punch and really dense piece of hard wood will make a huge difference.
  9. Awesome of you to provide this to the community, Dave!
  10. PM sent and awesome man! I’ll share the data with you once I’ve gotten to the testing phase.
  11. Yeah 39 Hours. Man that was a great series! If I ever find myself in Canada I’ll look you up for a guided session. If you ever find yourself in Germany let me know;)
  12. And extremely helpful:) In the meantime I guess I can fix a measuring tape to the side of my testing tank and do some timed drops to work out the sink rate that way.
  13. @Vodkaman No problem man that for me is a positive answer. Puts me in the direction of building the jerks for specific sink rates as opposed to trying to make them suspend:) @Travis Thanks man I'd never heard of suspend strips!
  14. Dave, Thanks for the response man! I do understand that changes in water temperature, mineral content, etc. will affect water density and therefore sink rate and other things. What I am thinking with these baits is an idea I got from some big gliders I bought from Westin. Those gliders sink to between 1.5 and 2 meters and then suspend depending on the factors you stated above. I designed the master for these casts to be somewhat thinner and more tapered toward the tail than the Westin gliders with the intention of them having a more erratic action when fished like a jerk bait. I fish lakes and rivers that vary greatly in depth and weed cover and my intention is to make a variety of these jerks to fit whatever situation I may find myself in. For example, when pike move into the more shallow bay areas before the spawn begins I can often find them in shallower, weedy areas where I would like to get a bait to suspend a couple of meters down but not far enough that it is constantly in the weeds. Another example would be when the perch are feeding close to the surface on summer mornings it would be great to have a small jerk that would suspend about .5 meter below the surface. I will use your spreadsheet to attempt to make something close to what I am envisioning and will let you know how it goes. Once again thank you!
  15. Hi All, Just poured some beautiful resin casts and now it's time to weight them. Maybe Vodkaman Dave can answer this or maybe others can as well, but, does anyone know the math that I can use to determine how much weight to add to my casts to make them suspending at various depths? These will be jerk baits from 7cm up to 15cm. I'm sure I could do a lot of trial and error but I am equally sure that someone here can save me the time and lost material. Thanks to you all!
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