Jump to content

fishordie79

TU Member
  • Content Count

    149
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by fishordie79

  1. Hi @LHL and thanks for the response! I'll be sure that all tools are sharp before starting to carve. The plank I got is about 3/4 of an inch thick which is not thick enough to make the big jointed swim bait I have planned for it. My thought was to cut the plank into a couple of pieces that I would then glue together and then cut the blank out of that. The only thing I am not sure about is whether or not carving the mouth details, which will mean carving across the glue where the two pieces intersect in the middle, will cause an issue. What are your thoughts?
  2. Hello TU Folks! I just picked up a couple of nice planks of Douglas fir after seeing someone on here talking about making jerk baits with it. I have never used Douglas fir to make a lure and was wondering if anyone on here has done so and has also carved details into it? Does it carve well? Thanks to all!
  3. fishordie79

    Cedar squarebills16.jpg

    Nice man! Clean airbrush skills!
  4. Thanks @Anglinarcher! I'll give it a try and see what happens!
  5. @Vodkaman Dave, I believe strongly in the principles of change of direction when lure fishing for predators. There is a great bait on the market now from a company called Gunki, which I am sure you are familiar with. The lure is called the Scunner and is a jointed hard bait with a very slow sink rate. A slow retrieve sees the bait behaving like a swim bait with a smooth glide, but give it a hard twitch and the bait flies off to the side as if darting away from impending attack. I have been very successful using these baits and am going to attempt replicating one in the future.
  6. Goodness man that is amazing!
  7. Hey TU Folks! I was making some silicone molds the other day and noticed up on a shelf that I have a ton of pigments that I rarely use. I've been tossing around the idea of a hard bait with plastic or rubber fins and was wondering: Does anyone know whether or not adding these (mica powder) pigments to clear silicone hinders the silicone's ability to set properly? I was thinking I could just order some clear silicone and add the pigments to make fins for hard baits. Have any of you ever tried this or have a better method of making fins? Thanks!
  8. Hey @eastman03 I forgot to mention. I simplified my process by eliminating the need for the wooden block. screws, and glue stick. I basically just built a shallow frame out of Legos, maybe 25cm X 25cm, and poured a thin layer of silicone into it, maybe a half a centimeter thick. Now instead of gluing the eyes to the screws I just lay them out onto the silicone and then drop the epoxy directly onto them. Any epoxy you get onto the silicone just pops right off after its dry. Also, as long as you have the silicone on a flat surface the eyes will always dry flat and not to one side or the other if you screw isn't perfectly straight. Oh, and you can also use the waterslide paper to make little decals with your initials or logo on them which you can then stick to the underside of the bait before the epoxy process:)
  9. As @azsouth and others have stated here I think a lot of it boils down to simply trusting the bait you are throwing. similar to any product one has trust in you just find something that works and you go with it. That said, and more specifically to your question, all companies are going to have patterns and colors that are similar across their product lines so in my opinion the company that produced the bait is not as important many other factors. @azsouth and @JD_mudbug eluded to the uniqueness of a pattern/color being important where fish may have seen many varieties of the mass produced stuff hundreds of times. This is definitely an important consideration for me. In pressured waters I want to start out throwing something that the fish have not gotten smart to. Sure, you're gonna catch fish using patterns and colors similar to what others throwing but a unique looking morsel may be exactly what that lunker requires to abandon the thought process that has allowed him to get so big int the first place. I do a lot of pike fishing. When pike get big they tend to begin acting like musky in that they don't just go after anything that swims in front of them. Probably the most important thing for me when I am painting a lure that I know I will be throwing for big pike is the ability to "match the hatch" if you will. For big pike, especially those that are used to seeing lures, what better way to take the guesswork out of what color or pattern they might want than to just match what they are already eating? Tight lines man!
  10. Nice man! Those look great brother. Yeah man a sharp leather punch and really dense piece of hard wood will make a huge difference.
  11. Awesome of you to provide this to the community, Dave!
  12. PM sent and awesome man! I’ll share the data with you once I’ve gotten to the testing phase.
  13. Yeah 39 Hours. Man that was a great series! If I ever find myself in Canada I’ll look you up for a guided session. If you ever find yourself in Germany let me know;)
  14. And extremely helpful:) In the meantime I guess I can fix a measuring tape to the side of my testing tank and do some timed drops to work out the sink rate that way.
  15. @Vodkaman No problem man that for me is a positive answer. Puts me in the direction of building the jerks for specific sink rates as opposed to trying to make them suspend:) @Travis Thanks man I'd never heard of suspend strips!
  16. Dave, Thanks for the response man! I do understand that changes in water temperature, mineral content, etc. will affect water density and therefore sink rate and other things. What I am thinking with these baits is an idea I got from some big gliders I bought from Westin. Those gliders sink to between 1.5 and 2 meters and then suspend depending on the factors you stated above. I designed the master for these casts to be somewhat thinner and more tapered toward the tail than the Westin gliders with the intention of them having a more erratic action when fished like a jerk bait. I fish lakes and rivers that vary greatly in depth and weed cover and my intention is to make a variety of these jerks to fit whatever situation I may find myself in. For example, when pike move into the more shallow bay areas before the spawn begins I can often find them in shallower, weedy areas where I would like to get a bait to suspend a couple of meters down but not far enough that it is constantly in the weeds. Another example would be when the perch are feeding close to the surface on summer mornings it would be great to have a small jerk that would suspend about .5 meter below the surface. I will use your spreadsheet to attempt to make something close to what I am envisioning and will let you know how it goes. Once again thank you!
  17. Hi All, Just poured some beautiful resin casts and now it's time to weight them. Maybe Vodkaman Dave can answer this or maybe others can as well, but, does anyone know the math that I can use to determine how much weight to add to my casts to make them suspending at various depths? These will be jerk baits from 7cm up to 15cm. I'm sure I could do a lot of trial and error but I am equally sure that someone here can save me the time and lost material. Thanks to you all!
  18. I hear you man a Photoshop license is expensive albeit far less expensive these days now that it is subscription based. I've used GIMP in the past and it is a powerful program. Any way I can help you man just let me know. Also, I recently watched the 36 Hours series on YT. Man that was one of the best fishing shows I've ever seen. Loved it! I have two bucket list trips: one to South America for Peacock Bass and another to Canada for pike, walleye, sturgeon, etc. You guys have so many awesome species there you must be in heaven:)
  19. Dave, Understood and thank you.
  20. @Vodkaman Would you send me a link to or possibly email me the spreadsheet? Great work man!
  21. Hey @eastman03 Awesome! Glad it helped you and the eyes look great man! After months of work I finally have built a new workshop and have gotten it stocked up. Just ordered some resin, microballoons, silicone, etc., and am looking forward to going into full production mode. I was thinking about modifying the Photoshop template to add layers for 15 and 20mm eyes so if you need the updated one I'll gladly get it to you.
  22. @21xdc So I looked and unfortunately I cannot get KBS in Germany, at least that I could find anyway. Can’t even get it shipped to the Army Post Office on the base that I work at because there are restrictions on shipping it through the APO. Time to start looking for a German alternative...
  23. @21xdc is this the one you use? Also, I've tried an automotive clear coat in the past, although it wasn't KBS and required a hardener. The problem with that one was the fumes. I do a lot of bait finishing in my basement and my wife was rather unimpressed at the smell of that stuff:) How bad are the fumes/smell with KBS in your opinion? @Slammingjackthanks for the tip!
  24. @21xdc Understood. Any ideas on how many baits (subject to size of course) you can get out of a pint of KBS? Not sure if I should just go with a pint or spring for the gallon.
  25. Agreeing with mostly everything said here and also what @Vodkaman said above but I will caveat this with the fact that when I started I thought I had everything I needed to make lures but have now added so many things along the way that I deem essential that it really is somewhat subjective. We all have our areas of expertise and specific styles of baits that we make more than others and what one determines to be essential another may find non-essential. So, to get to the core of the question and answer it as best as possible, maybe ask your son what kind of baits he would like to make and let us know. I'll bet we can give you a more targeted and useful answer once we have that data. Until then, my essentials are the following: Band saw, Dremel Tool with sanding and cutting bits, 316L steel wire or something similar for making hook hangers and line ties or just buy them from somewhere like lurepartsonline.com, a vice, various grits of sandpaper from course to very fine, a good airbrush with a .35mm or smaller tip (allows you to get in close when painting details), airbrush paints ( I use Createx brand but there are many good ones), airbrush cleaner and restorer....also reducer, airbrush compressor (really do your research on this one), man....what else......that should get you started until he lets you know what kind of lures he wants to make. Oh, and one more thing, it's awesome that your son wants to get into this and that you are supporting him in doing so. It is a very rewarding hobby that is tremendously fun and this community is your best resource for help along the way. He will make mistakes. However, so much work and planning goes into every build that each time he makes a mistake he will learn a hard lesson from it that will undoubtedly make him think about it and improve the next time around. The best part for you will be enjoying the look on his face when he pulls in that first fish on his very own lure. Tight lines you guys!
×
×
  • Create New...
Top