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Felder

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About Felder

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  1. Has anyone ever used a thin superglue (penetrates well) and accelerator to instantly cure the glue used to seal the thread? If so, did the accelerator leave a residue on the material (natural, silicon, or rubber)?
  2. Good idea. I have to remind myself that you can use deceptively little superglue to get the job done... eyes and weed guards!
  3. All good comments. Admittedly I was not using superglue to bond the eyes first as I was getting an white haze every time I used it (see my other recent thread about the issue, now resolved). I was hoping the “stock” adhesive combined with loon resin would do the trick, effectively: use the stock adhesive to hold them in place while I apply the resin, but the resin is really what keeps them on. On some, that’s been the case, but when running my finger over the head/eyes I can tell the coating it thicker around the eyes on those that seem to be holding up. Those that have failed not only failed at the eyes but even saw peeling in the whole head. Right or wrong, my logic of moving to UV Thick was to replicate a thick, epoxy/UV clear coat on a crank bait, applied after the eyes are glued in. That stuff is so thick you have to give it drip-time, but it seals everything well. If I can accomplish a similar effect with UV thick, and further improve the durability of the head, that’s a winner in my book (and maybe even worth the extra cheddar :). Thx again for the comments! Very helpful.
  4. The fan did the trick!! Thx guys!
  5. I’m using Gorilla Super Glue Gel (have also tried locktite gel)... seems like every other head turns out like this because the tiniest bit of gel squeezes out around the weedguard. Is this just a case of “tough luck use less glue” or is there a super glue (gel or otherwise) that truly dries clear/leaves no hazy residue?
  6. Good idea and one I had considered actually (always nice to hear confirmation!). I was using some Germ-X to remove the tacky feeling (works great, btw) but applying SH’s is another great option. I was also already coating the whole head... which is why I was surprised when the eyes broke loose... it should have been a complete seal. Options... options...! I guess that’s part of what makes it fun, trying different fixes! Thx again!
  7. I’ve been using Loon’s UV clear fly finish THIN to coat and secure my swimjig and bladed jig 3D eyes after sticking them on. I’m finding the coating insufficient at times as the eyes are breaking loose every now and then. Thin is awesome on the threads as finishing cement, but I’m wondering if UV THICK would be a better choice to finish the heads/eyes. Any experience with both to confirm I’m thinking correctly? thx!!
  8. Yup, perhaps I will. Just called Pro-Tech, who said 275 was the min temp to get the cure chemical reaction... extending the time to about 30 min. May try that. The issues I’m seeing are deal-breakers but noticeable to the perfectionist :). Thanks for the feedback!
  9. Sweet, thx! BTW, love the YouTube channel! I’ll be posting some of my own soon as well!
  10. Is it possible to skip the "cure" bake when using powder paint and just epoxy/UV resin the jig heads instead? I'm using a fluid bed and most heads turn out well after the bake, but I'm seeing issues with others. If the resin/epoxy dries just as hard... seems like a good option (and a time-saver if using a good UV resin). I could also glue on the eyes prior to and epoxy/resin over them at the same time... two birds with 1 UV stone. Thoughts?
  11. Thank you both. I’m going to make one more go at “encouraging” them to work... but may end up getting a different option. Totally agree the large size looks too short on the one end... weird though... if it wasn’t meant to be bent into a figure 8 (but stay as is in the lure body as a joint connection, etc), why call it a figure 8!? smh.... crazy.
  12. Based on research here, I recently ordered a bunch of size 2 (large) Figure 8 links from LurePartsOnline. I'm having a terrible time bending them to close the side thats not already an open loop. Compared to the medium size (where the loops are both more "complete"), plus the diameter of the wire itself (fairly stout), any bend I get to complete the "8" just destroys the link. What am I missing? I considered heating the link to make it bend better/easier... but that seems like overkill. Below is a screen shot of the med/large sizes that shows how "extra open" the large size is vs the medium. Also included is a shot of one of the links I have. Is there a magic pair of wire-bending pliers that does the trick?
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