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About CoreyH

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  1. I saw that video too. Epoxy definitely had much better holding strength but I believe he said that for fish like bass, the super glue had more than enough holding strength as well. Either way, I’m going to start using epoxy for the longer working time for adjusting lip position, line tie, and hook hangers and also to completely prevent the cloudiness issue that happens with super glue.
  2. CoreyH

    line tie in bill

    Right now I’m twisting .041” as wire for my line ties and hook hangers. Would I be better off going with a cotter pin and bending it for the through-lip design?
  3. CoreyH

    line tie in bill

    Bob, thanks for the info. I lost my last E1’s last summer and figured I’d get more, but then Mr. Chambers passed away and there was no way I was going to spend $50+ on any bait so I didn’t get any more. I’ve tried to find a substitute for it and just bought a couple of John Hott’s H-1 squarebills since they are supposed to be replicas of the E1’s. Water is still frozen up here so I won’t know how well they work until spring. Since I just started making some crankbaits myself I thought I would ask about the line tie in the E1’s since I’m sure that factors into their great action. The cranks I’ve made so far have all had the line tie attached directly to the nose of the bait, just above the lip. If possible for a beginner I was wanting to try putting the line tie in the bill like the E1. The build was always so clean on any of the Zoom cranks that I just thought the line tie didn’t go in below the lip, but was rather somehow molded into the lip. Thanks again for the pic and correcting my mistake. Any suggestions on how they got such a clean through-lip design on the Zoom cranks? Did they just epoxy and smooth it out?
  4. Thanks for the clarification. I just assumed the D2T and BSI were what people were using for installing hardware and lips. I'm planning on trying the KBS Diamond Clear to dip and hang for my topcoat, so I won't need the D2T or BSI for that.
  5. I've noticed that my favorite crankbait (Zoom WEC E1) has the line tie actually located just slightly forward of the body, in the lip of the bait. It's a very clean look, almost as though the line tie was molded into the lip, not like some I've seen where the wire for the line tie is situated below the lip and comes up through the bottom of the lip through a couple holes or a slot. If I'm wanting this type of line tie positioning and this clean look, is this something I can do myself or is there a place that sells the lips with the line tie cleanly built in? And for now, I'm only interested in the squarebill lip, not an elongated round bill for a medium or deep diver. As always, thanks!
  6. Looks like I'll start using epoxy. I was leaning that way to begin with, mainly because of the longer working time to make sure the bill is straight. I would try what Dave suggested, but I'm just not sure how much confidence I would have by only securing the bill with a drop of glue on each side. Most likely it would be fine, but I would struggle with feeling good about it not coming loose. I've heard guys talk about D2T and Bob Smith slow cure. Is one better than the other or just personal preference?
  7. I've still been going back and forth a little about continuing to use super glue or going to an epoxy for gluing in line ties, hook hangers, and bills. One issue I'm having that is making me think I'll go the epoxy route is that I'm constantly getting varying degrees of cloudiness on my lexan bills from using the super glue. I understand that this is due to a reaction between the plastic bill and the superglue which causes a vapor and the vapor is what causes the cloudiness...at least that's my understanding. For those that do use superglue for installation of the bill, is there a way to prevent the cloudiness effect?
  8. What is that? Looks like a grinding/sanding attachment for a dremel, but I've never seen a pink one before. Where you do you get them?
  9. Thanks, I think I'll try the forstner bit and see how I like it. I have a small drill press I'm using, but I have found that my normal bit just wants to wander sometimes until I really get the hole started. I haven't made any baits with eyes yet, but watching some youtube videos it appeared a forstner bit was being used for that purpose as well. Once again, I appreciate the help!
  10. When drilling the hole for your ballast weight and also for putting eyes on your bait, do you use a lip & spur bit or a forstner bit? I've just been using a "standard" bit but it wants to wander too much and I like the centering point on both the lip & spur and forstner bits.
  11. Travis, thanks for the tutorial. That helped a lot. I’ve now got multiple ways to accomplish things. I think trial and error with the different methods will come next. I really appreciate the help!
  12. I appreciate the comments. I’ll check out some videos. I have a topwater bait idea that I think would be cool to replicate in this way. Its action shouldn’t be compromised by the difference in density of the resin, but it might need some fine tuning with the ballast weights. But, considering I haven’t even made the topwater bait yet, I have a while to figure this out.
  13. Oh, one more question I forgot to ask. In order for me to really want to make replicas of a bait I made, I would obviously want to first create the bait completely and water test it to make sure it swims just the way I want it to. But by that point the bait would already have all the hardware and lip attached as well as possibly be painted and top-coated. Other than the obvious parts of taking off the split rings and hooks, what else would you have to do to the crankbait in order to get it ready for the mold? I'm assuming you would need to clip or cut off the hook hangers and line tie? What about the lip? Would you need to sand down the top coat? Sorry for all the questions, but this has me very intrigued.
  14. I appreciate the info. Just did some very quick looking and reading and had a few more questions. After the mold is completed, do you attach line eye, hook hangers, lip, and ballast weight the same as you would with a wood/PVC bait...drilling/sawing into the bait and gluing or epoxying in the hangers, lip, and weight? Also, do you need to have a vacuum chamber for both the mold and resin? Lastly, what is the hardness of the resin? Is it like basswood? Harder, softer? Just thinking in terms of durability as well as buoyancy.
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