CoreyH

Thanks, I think I'll try the forstner bit and see how I like it. I have a small drill press I'm using, but I have found that my normal bit just wants to wander sometimes until I really get the hole started. I haven't made any baits with eyes yet, but watching some youtube videos it appeared a forstner bit was being used for that purpose as well. Once again, I appreciate the help!

When drilling the hole for your ballast weight and also for putting eyes on your bait, do you use a lip & spur bit or a forstner bit? I've just been using a "standard" bit but it wants to wander too much and I like the centering point on both the lip & spur and forstner bits.

Travis, thanks for the tutorial. That helped a lot. I’ve now got multiple ways to accomplish things. I think trial and error with the different methods will come next. I really appreciate the help!

I appreciate the comments. I’ll check out some videos. I have a topwater bait idea that I think would be cool to replicate in this way. Its action shouldn’t be compromised by the difference in density of the resin, but it might need some fine tuning with the ballast weights. But, considering I haven’t even made the topwater bait yet, I have a while to figure this out.

Oh, one more question I forgot to ask. In order for me to really want to make replicas of a bait I made, I would obviously want to first create the bait completely and water test it to make sure it swims just the way I want it to. But by that point the bait would already have all the hardware and lip attached as well as possibly be painted and top-coated. Other than the obvious parts of taking off the split rings and hooks, what else would you have to do to the crankbait in order to get it ready for the mold? I'm assuming you would need to clip or cut off the hook hangers and line tie? What about the lip? Would you need to sand down the top coat? Sorry for all the questions, but this has me very intrigued.

I appreciate the info. Just did some very quick looking and reading and had a few more questions. After the mold is completed, do you attach line eye, hook hangers, lip, and ballast weight the same as you would with a wood/PVC bait...drilling/sawing into the bait and gluing or epoxying in the hangers, lip, and weight? Also, do you need to have a vacuum chamber for both the mold and resin? Lastly, what is the hardness of the resin? Is it like basswood? Harder, softer? Just thinking in terms of durability as well as buoyancy.

Sorry, but now you're forcing me to show my ignorance. What type of resin are you making the bait from? What are you making the mold from? And what are micro balloons?

Right now, having just started making some crankbaits, I'm just having fun with building them. I've used the same template for three of the four crankbaits I've made, yet all 3 baits look quite different from each other. One is thinner with flatter sides, one is kind of thick throughout, and one has a fairly nice rounded body. Between cutting, chiseling, and sanding (I don't have a carving knife yet), each bait has not formed the same for me (I've using PVC, so I"m not fighting grain or anything). And right now I'm ok with that. However, when I eventually make a bait that I want to replicate, what's some tips or requirements in order to get it as close as possible each time I make the bait? I have only been marking a centerline around the bait, which I know is one mistake I'm making, but I just don't know how to properly draw the other lines for creating the particular shaping I want to have. As always, any suggestions/help is appreciated.

Thanks for the response. Makes sense (or at least as much as my very limited knowledge of hydrodynamics will allow). I think it's going to just come down to trial and error, which can in itself be fun.

How does the positioning of the ballast weight affect the action or performance of a crankbait? I see crankbaits where the ballast weight is right in line with the front hook hanger and I see other crankbaits where the ballast is placed just back (towards the rear of the bait) of the front hook hanger. Yet I can't recall seeing one with the ballast weight placed forward of the front hook hanger. Also, how important (if it is important) is it to keep the ballast weight below centerline? I use 1/4" lead wire instead of pouring lead since I currently don't have a melting pot.

I have watched a few of his videos. I did see one where he tested between super glue and epoxy and the epoxy was much stronger, but the super glue was still plenty strong for bass...at least that's what I remember from it. I usually put my line tie, hook hangers, and bill in at the same time, so I'll probably just switch to epoxy for all of them since I'll have to mix up the epoxy for the bill anyway. I just like the idea of being able to play with the bill some to try and position it perfectly before it sets and I can't adjust it anymore.

Again, thanks to everyone who is offering ideas and suggestions. Right now I'm using .041" SS wire and a pair of wire twisting pliers to create my line ties and hook hangers. Next time I order from McMaster I'll order some of the cotter pins and give those a try to see which I like better. Bait making sure is a lot of fun. So many different ways to do almost everything.

I'll have to try adding the baking soda...my first few baits I've just used the super glue gel to glue my lead weight in.

Thanks for the info. Pulling on the hook hangers and line tie, I just don't think a bass, even a decent sized one, is going to pull them out. However, I do like the idea of being able to tweak positioning of the bill by using epoxy. I have had one instance where the super glue set so fast that I had to really push on the bill to get it the rest of the way in. Another few seconds and I don't think I would have been able to get it positioned correctly. Having that extra time would probably come in handy. I'll probably just pick up some 2-part epoxy and use that just to be on the safe side and have the extra time before it sets.

So far I've only made a few crankbaits, but I've been using superglue (gel) for the hook hangers, line ties, and bills. I fish almost exclusively for bass, so will the superglue be sufficient or should I be using epoxy?

I know I've got some good sized files with a flat side on one side and a curved side on the other that I got from my dad. I might try and see how they do for shaping. Thanks for the continuing help!

Thanks! I have watched quite a few of the Marling Baits videos...I think that's probably what started me thinking about making my own baits. I see him use a chisel a lot, but I've also seen him use a knife. I'll check out the link.

Good to know...thanks! I've still got plenty right now, but I might get some of the Azek to see how they compare.

Thanks, I'll check it out!

Thanks for the link! I think this is the route I'll go.

Thanks! One question...when putting on wooden jaws, do you want to use a softer wood, like pine?

I have a 3-inch vise I got from Harbor Freight that I have attached to my work station. I had seen videos where guys had placed a wooden bait in the vise in order to securely hold it for chiseling, sanding, or drilling into it. Is there anything you can add or change that will make the vise hold a lure better than the iron gripper teeth that it comes standard with? It seems like the bait is either not being held firmly enough and is moving around while I'm trying to work on it, or else I'm tightening it up too much and the teeth of the vise are indenting into the bait.

Can you recommend a good, but not expensive, carving knife to try?

I actually went to Menards first before going to Lowes. Now that I think about it, they did have the 2"x2"x12' there, but for whatever reason I decided to check Lowes and found a board there. Not really sure what it was about the 2x2x12 that I didn't like, but I'm sure it would have worked perfectly fine. I didn't see any of the 1 1/4"x2"x8' that you mentioned. Maybe they had those in a different area?

Makes perfect sense to me. I hope at some point to start doing more with balsa or basswood for those very reasons, but I figured that PVC would be the best place to start (for me at least) since there is no grain to deal with and I can water test at any point.