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DGagner

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About DGagner

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 02/06/1955

Profile Information

  • Location
    Southern Maine
  • Interests
    Besides the obvious, woodworking, the sciences, portrait painting, guitars, In general; making stuff.

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179 profile views
  1. My first calculator was a TI... My neighbor was in college engineering. He came over to my house and if we bought two of them we could get them for $150. Amazing. Did basically what a two dollar calculator from walmart does today. Although, it did have scientific notation which I later found out was indispensable with my physics classes. My math skills are pretty good. My computational skills are error ridden. The calculator saved my butt more than once. That was in 1973. I got rid of the calculator just about five years ago. It was still working if plugged in. The batteries wouldn't charge any longer. First computer in 1978 Radio shack model 1.
  2. Thnx. Novel idea, moving the beam. All the picts worked so I was able to see exactly what you were getting at. When I taught science we used to make something similar to what I made with plastic soda straws, cardboard, pins and a glue gun. They weren't to durable but they actually worked. We had ohaus balances that we also used a lot but I figured the kids would find ownership in the work if they could make their own. It also gave a more complete understanding of mass vs weight. These were younger kids.
  3. I searched for it on this forum and couldn't find it. You got the link? I'd like to see it. Thanks, the best solution would be to get a triple beam balance. Not that expensive but very accurate for almost any need. Still a decent one isn't as cheap as this (or as I am). It's still an option down the road. I used one at work for years, even off and on after we got the digital units. I've got this problem.... over my lifetime I find that with some things, if I didn't make it myself I don't want it. Ya, it is a problem.
  4. Yup, another scale sort of thing. My digital scale was just not accurate. Cheap yes but boy did it have a range all over the place. I could get a more expensive one, but heck, it's just to find the weight of my lures when I make them. Coins have a pretty good standard weight defined by the US Mint. They can be used to make a fairly decently accurate scale. This is how I did it.
  5. I've been wanting a better way to balance my hard baits instead of guessing where the center of mass is. I built a simple balance to attempt to do this. A quick build with scrap materials.
  6. Lot's of clearcoat possibilities. From inexpensive to expensive. One really inexpensive way that works pretty good is to go to a big box store and get some 2 part epoxy.... ($5-$7), you know, the one in the syringes. Mix it up and brush it on. Be sure to get the one labeled 'clear'. or it might dry yellow. You'd have enough to do a few lures with that. There are lots of other choices too but they would probably be more expensive.
  7. Thanks for this bit of info. I wasn't aware of that issue. Good point.
  8. In my experience if you're going to repaint the entire lure then a light roughing up can be done although I've painted over clearcoat without doing this with no problem. The common thing is to wipe it down with alcohol to get any hand oils off of it. I don't know of any airbrushing clearcoats that are suitable for final finish. There are many other options and the epoxy you have is one good one.
  9. DGagner

    DSC03544.jpg

    A prototype segmented bait. It has two hinges but four pivot points. The motion is fairly fluid like. It was made to test and not for finishing but I did it anyway. I'll make a cleaner one in the near future. I've posted a video of the build here.
  10. I think the OP's question was about materials to acquire. The theory and actually how to make the bait, i.e. forming by carving, how to airbrush, how to weight it properly will have to be researched to know. But, I'm sure any information would be helpful.
  11. I started making lures several months ago. I have a website with all the stuff I acquired and how I got started. I also spent 30 yrs teaching jr. high science. I kinda know this age. That being said, in your situation this is what I'd do. Get some pine or some balsa wood. Cut the wood to size - Hopefully you have a power or small hand saw that can cut a piece of wood down to rectangular lure size. Carve it to shape - Get a decent razor knife. Like the ones in woodworking not the plastic ones from the dollar store. Supervision... dangerous but pretty much unavoidable. Sand the shape and smooth it - Get some course 80 grit and some 120 or so grit sand paper to take down the wood after the carving is done. I work with white pine and it sands down very easily. Drill weight hole and eyeloop holes - I'll assume you have a drill. You can purchase some steel ball bearings for a small amount. It will suffice instead of a lead pot and lead. If you have some small pieces of metal around it would work too. Fill weight holes and glue in eyeloops - You'll need some epoxy. The 5 or 30 minute stuff in the double syringe from a big box store will work. (gluing in line/hook ties and covering the weight holes). A little sanding sealer varnish sort of substance to brush on and seal the wood. (superglue can be used too) Clearcoat - The epoxy will work for that too and is not expensive for a few lures. Be sure to get the 'clear' one. It will say on the package. You can buy a rotisserie motor but if you put the epoxy on thin and it's the quick dry one, it will set fast and will suffice without rotating it. The eyes you seem to have. And a small amount of polycarbonate plastic from box store if you make a bill. ----------------------------------- All the stuff above is the small dollar amount total. The airbrush and what it needs is the expensive item. Unless you want to just make monotone or dual tone lures like you made above then an airbrush is really needed. An inexpensive one will work but it will be frustrating. The iwatas are sort of a standard and about $150. Then there is opaque and transparent airbrush paint. Createx is sort of a standard They come in sets for lower cost. Then it needs a compressor. A dedicated airbrush compressor is fine, or with an adjustable regulator valve to cut it down to 0-40 psi, a construction one if you have one around. It's what I use. Hooks, split rings, eyeloops Take a look at some lure making vids, Marling baits is a good one, Bejan lures is another among many possibilities. Or you can look at one of mine. They use some more sophisticated (expensive) equipment sometimes but you will see those places where you can get by without it. After making a few and if you think you'll stick with it you can upgrade to better tools over time. My take on it... hope it helps. I miss teaching....so, don't get me going.
  12. DGagner

    Paint gun

    Hm... spraygun not airbrush. Well, I've got an inexpensive gravity feed one that I've had for years from Amazon. Similar to the harbor freight ones mentioned earlier. It's always worked and worked well. I never put thick stuff in it but for poly and think paints I haven't had any issues with it at all. In this case, inexpensive doesn't see to mean low performance.
  13. I love simple green. Also, I've begun using blue windshield washer fluid (it doesn't have ammonia in it like windex) It seems to work as good as the airbrush cleaner you buy. It has alcohol, detergents, and water in it. Rumor has it that it won't hurt the chrome finish on the brush. I hope that's true. $2.99 for triple the amount of expensive airbrush cleaner that costs much, much more. Fingers crossed on this one.
  14. DGagner

    Unknown bait

    I make everything except the hooks and splitrings. I don't now what the fish is that it represents. I just like the pattern. Sort of yellow perchy but not.
  15. When they work they're pretty nice. When they don't... ugh. I've had situations like this. For some reason it just won't work all of a sudden, even if you've kept it clean. Then you take it all apart and use all the cleaners and cleaning tools and it still has issues. I've found that I keep small wire brush wires in the drawer. The very tiny holes in the front end nozzle that nothing else will fit into if cleaned with one of those small wires often fixes a head scratcher issue.
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