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Fern

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  1. I have not tried to hand pour my tube mold but I do have a dual injector as well so that is what I typically do. I also have the do it molds tube mold with the two splines but to be honest with you, I didnt care for it too much. I have not tried cutting the tube in half but what I have done is dipped the rod that comes with the mold into some hot plastic in one color and then removed the sleeve that formed and then dip into another color and cut that sleeve in two and placed one of each color back on the rod and then shot the mold with a more transparent color of one of two sleeves so you can see both colors through the main body. Its a pain in the butt but its interesting to do. I attached a picture of one I did with one color strip under neath, just imagine a second brighter color underneath like a chartreuse lime or green. I also made a bait where I drizzled some bright color on the side of the mold, closed it up, heated the mold really hot and poure a black over it. It came out looking really nice.
  2. I am trying to figure out how to add different color layers without adding too much thickness. Any tips for this? I am using a mold and it came with rods i am suppose to use with it. I dont know how to modify it to use thicker rods/mandrel. I still need to get a reading of the rods that I am using to answer your first question. Sorry I was not prepared.
  3. Yeah, I agree and think the thickness is what might have been causing it, however other tubes from the same batch pour of the same thickness have yet to tear. My mold makes 5 tubes at once and out of those 5, 1 of them will tear open and the others are perfect for use so I guess I just dont understand why the thickness would affect 1 of 5 tubes from the same pour. The thickness comes because I like to dip the tube in clear to seal in the eyes. although, I have had some tubes that i did not dip in clear that have also split. This doesn't happen to all my tubes, just a 1-2 from each pour which is enough to drive me crazy. lol. You mentioned I can use anything metal for a core? I am using a mold with rods that were made for it. can I add girth to these rods somehow? I am assuming your comment was intended assuming I hand dipped my tubes so just wanted clarity on if I can somehow add more girth to the rods that came with my mold. Thanks again for your help, I will def keep trying and If I find out what caused it, I will report back. I have ordered some hard and extra hard plastisol from baitplastics.com so hopefully that helps some too.
  4. That is a really nice looking swimbait. Did you make that underspin weighted hook? mind sharing what mold you used for it?
  5. I am using the dead on plastix worm oil. usually apply it right as i put them off to the side to cure. would the worm oil weaken the plastic? I use the black bucket tube craw blend from dead on plastix so its already pre-mixed with hardener/softner so I just agitate the gallon for about 2 minutes by shaking it back and forth with my hands. I heat in a 1 cup glass pyrex for a minute at a time till the plastic reaches 350 giving it mixes in between minute to ensure its evenly heated. due to the fact that out of 20 only about 15/16 of them are usable with nothing wrong noted with them, I feel like there has got to be something affecting the 4-5 that rip that is the others are not affected by like maybe one of the slots got too much air and formed an air pocket i cant see but upon inspection before putting the jig heads in I don't see anything wrong with them and the plastic feels sturdy. Could it maybe also be that when I clear dip them it is making the plastic thicker and less stretchy? maybe the ones that break are the ones that I am double dipping in clear plastisol?
  6. I am using the black bucket (tube/craw) and I am using dead on plastix colorants as well. I add about anywhere between 12-24 drops of colorant into 1 cup of plastisol to get it to the opaque-ness that I want. The pink tube in the picture was just one of the ones the didnt tear from that pink batch but some pink ones def tore. I usually make a batch of 20 of each pattern that I make and out of those twenty, 3 to 5 of them tear and the rest are ok.
  7. These are a few others that have torn. These are single color poured so there should be no seam to split at yet they are still splitting.
  8. Thank you for your input. While I agree that the tube head might be a little big for the tubes, I just cant wrap my head around how other people are doing it just fine. as I mentioned before, I use to get my jigs from ultralight heavyweights (hopefully user Jgzee1 can provide some input as he owns ultralight) and they use the 1 ounce minnow head on the same size tube as I do. side to side comparison they are identical. Also, this is not happening to all of my jigs only a handful from each batch but the fact that I dont have quality control is bothering me. I have attached a picture of two of my jigs, one of which that has withstood the 1 ounce jig head for over a week, the other which ripped after 2 days of just sitting there and in the middle is one of the ultralight jigs for comparison. @Jgzee1 can you help me out? what am I doing wrong? is it my choice of plastisol (dead on plastix) is it micro bubbles? Why do some of my jigs tear liek this, both solid color pours and dual color pours. If you can provide some insight to how you make it work, I would really appreciate it.
  9. Thank you! I will try a combination of things to include getting the super stretch plastisol that Apdriver suggested (already purchased) as well as getting a vaccumm chamber to help de-gas the plastisol.
  10. I am really hoping this new plastic formula will do the trick. Another thing that I think might be causing this is air bubbles in the plastic that maybe is making it weak where it is splitting. maybe getting a vacuum chamber to help reduce the chances of air pockets. I will keep you all posted and I will also post once I get my angling AI molds as another user mentioned that hes had no issues with splitting. I am using lurecrafts mold currently and dont know the diameter of the rod but I will measure when I am home in the morning. Thanks again!
  11. I dip the rods in the whatever color I will use for the internal color and then place the rods back in the mold and place the mold on an electric griddle to keep it hot. while the plastic heats up I use a heat gun to blow hot air into the mold to help the plastic on the rod stay hot/sticky. ONce the outer color is ready I use a dual injector to inject dual colors making sure that both plastics are the same temp unless I use a single color which have also torn as well. once the colors have sat out a while I add eyes and dip in clear plastisol to protect the eyes and then I place them in my tackle box with worm oil .
  12. I have let some of these sit up to a week before putting a minnow jig head in and I am still having the problem. I currently use the lure craft 4 inch tube mold ( https://www.lurecraft.com/4-Tube-Mold-5-Cav-2-Pc-Alum-Injection/productinfo/5XLU-183/ ) so maybe the rod diameter has something to do with it? I have ordered 2 double dip 4 inch molds from angling Ai and they should have been here yesterday but I am still waiting on them, I am hoping that I have better luck with them. Currently my process involves dipping the rods, inserting them back in the mold, keeping the mold nice and hot on an electric griddle and using a heat gun to keep the plastic runny inside for a good bond. If I do two colors I use a dual injector but I always do a final dip in clear plastisol to keep the eyes in place so its adding thickness too.
  13. some of these tubes have been sitting for up to a week before I have added a tube jig, however I dont really hang them up to "cure" i just coat them in worm oil and place them in my soft plastic box ensuring they remain straight.
  14. I am having the same problem with single color pours. I even double dip my tubes in clear once they are cured for added durability and its still tearing. maybe its the added thickness from the clear that is not allowing for stretch? Also when I pour two colors I use a dual injector and make sure both plastics are about the same temp before filling the injector. I even go as far as keeping the mold on a griddle and heating the inside with a heat gun at the highest temp while I prep the plastic. I am stumped. I have also tried letting these baits sit for up to a week before adding a jig head and I will still find some that are ripped. out of like 100 that i made, id say about 20 of them tore like this while the others seem to be holding up well.
  15. I use a dual injector to inject two colors in at the same time and try to keep both plastics at the same tempt, however I have attached a picture of a tube that is a one color injection that also tore. some tear from the sides, some tear from the belly, some tear from the top. I Hope its just a stretch issue and that a different plastic type with more stretch will fix this issue. Though I do understand what you are saying and I even tried using a hot plate to keep my molds hot, same with using a heat gun to blow in the mold to keep the plastic inside hot when I do 3 color pours. Aside from the possibility of it being a stretch issue, I think maybe it could be air pockets inside the tube that I cant see from the outside causing it to be weak in that area. In regards to the head, I use lures from two companies "ultra light heavy weights & hooked up baits" They both sell 4 inch tubes the same as mine and they rig them with 1 ounce minnow tube heads like the ones i am using. I have put theirs and mine side to side and they are identical from size, weight, length and width so I figure if they can put 1 ounce minnow jigs into the 4 inch tubes, I shouldn't have a problem. I'll have to measure the diameter of the tube rod and get back to you on that. Thank you very much for your input and your time. Hopefully I can figure this out cuz I have a ton of people who want some but I wont sell a defective product.
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