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LHL

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LHL last won the day on August 26

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About LHL

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  1. If you're looking to make just a couple baits (read NOT 100s of the same bait) then a pair of round nose pliers, needle nose pliers, and vise grips are the best way to go.
  2. LHL

    Design Problem

    I agree with Dave's suggestion about using a double hinge and I would also add some more weight to the front section of the body as low as possible to add more stability. Either that or know you need to work it very slow and methodical. Big fish don't like to chase if they don't have to.
  3. I always thought that this video did a great job explaining the process: I've never done it (yet) but it seems like you have all the means to follow along here to make your own eyes. edit: Another video here Shows how he uses photoshop to create the fish eyes for printing.
  4. LHL

    Design Problem

    man that's so cool! Now go catch a fish with it! The action alone should draw some eaters!
  5. LHL

    Resin peeling

    I find that Etex Lite is too soft for my personal preference. Even weeks after curing I can still put a significant dent in it with my fingernail. You can buy most commercially available epoxy in gallon jugs if you want bulk. EX-74 is what was recommended to me and so far I really like it. I just need to find some hand pumps that will fit the neck of the bottles to make it easier to dispense....
  6. LHL

    Resin peeling

    The tech sheet for artresin (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0770/0749/files/ArtResin-Technical-Data-ENG-FR-ES-DEU-ITL-DUT-Nov2019.pdf?1111) says 24 hours to harden but 72 hours to fully cure. Maybe you're testing them too soon? 1 coat of epoxy is plenty for a test but large toothy critters will eat through it. For bass fishing 1 coat is plenty but for musky typically 3-5 coats is needed.
  7. LHL

    Resin peeling

    How long are you allowing the baits to cure after applying the epoxy? Can you put up any pictures of the baits to show what it looks like? Are these baits in contact with anything else? I've heard that some things like soft plastics can cause a chemical reaction that causes the topcoat to melt off. It shouldn't happen with epoxy but a link to the exact product you have would be helpful as well.
  8. Completely agree with this. Even wood that is cured will still retain moisture. If the plug is left out in the sun on the deck of the boat too long or on the dashboard of your truck, it will most certainly swell and cause cracks like this.
  9. Hi Dave! Not sure if anyone has pointed this out to you but your specific gravity for envirotex lite is actually incorrect. According to the spec sheet here (https://www.eplastics.com/pdf/envirotex-lite-resin.pdf) the HARDENER has a specific gravity of 0.97 but if you scroll down to page 9 you'll see that the resin has a specific gravity of 1.15 Since these are mixed in a 1:1 ratio I would assume (maybe incorrectly) that the specific gravity would then be 1.06 when mixed together; making it more dense than water. In which case I would agree, more etex buildup near the thickest part of the lure (the head) will cause the nose to dip down. - Andy
  10. The soft tail tip is absolutely genius! Never thought of that but I have a bunch of cheap flexible cutting boards I use to catch epoxy that I should definitely turn into tails.
  11. I seal my baits with epoxy to seal them. I just mix a bit up of envirotex lite (it's very thin compared to 5 min epoxy) in a container, put on some gloves, and dip a rag in there and wipe the epoxy over the bait pressing hard to get it into the pores of the wood. Even better if you thin the epoxy with some denatured alcohol to really let the wood soak it up. It will penetrate a couple millimeters deep so you can sand off the excess on top and still have a sealed bait which is nice. All sealers will add some weight to the lure but I haven't found much difference in my methods.
  12. It's all good my man! Asking questions is how we all progress! If you're up for the challenge, I would still cut the joint and make the connections and go through the process to see if you can get it to work! Everything you do is a great learning experience so trying new things with this bait will make the next one you make that much easier. And if you mess something up it's no big deal because you weren't planning on making this the perfect bait anyway. I know how heartbreaking it can be to spend days/weeks on a lure just to mess one little thing up and end up with a dud. It's why this is the perfect opportunity to just plow through and mess some stuff up through trial and error but still learn how to make the next one great!
  13. Let's try to address one thing at a time here: 1. You can cut the joint to go through the fin. It will look okay and should still work. 2. Since the bait is already carved, I would cut a straight joint like a Bucca Bullshad: You can then either pin the hardware or have a double hook eyes/loops to form the connections. 3. You can use a 5 gallon bucket as well to try to check the sink. It's not as telling but will work. 4. Yes you must seal the wood before you put it in the water. 5. To weight it you can use anything from pre-cut lead weights, to split shot, to pouring your own lead. 6. I'm guessing you can buy soft tails for swimbaits but, yes you'd likely have to make your own by carving one and casting it in silicone. 7. Mark your centerline before you round over the sides. Stack up some wood with a pencil on top about half way and run the lure along it. Then flip the bait and do it again. The center between those two lines is true center. You can only do this while the wood is still flat on the two sides. 8. The size of the hardware is tough to call but I personally think bigger is better. The longer the screw eye the stronger it will be. I personally twist my own wire. 9. picking the right treble hooks will all depend on the lure. I have an assortment of hooks I test to see what looks right. On the 10.5 in glide I used 4/0 hooks. 10. There are dozens of clear coats out there and all have their purpose. I recommend using a 2 part epoxy for maximum durability but that also means you'll need to build a rack to turn your baits so the epoxy doesn't run off. Envirotex lite is a good enough place to start. If you have toothy fish though it won't hold up too well. And finally, please PLEASE don't look at anything when it comes to building lures as a "waste of time." I see it all too often with people who just start out and they give up quick because of it. Everything that is a 'failure' is a learning opportunity. Ask anyone here and they'll show you the bins of failed baits they made trying to get 1 good one. No one makes the perfect bait on the first try. Hang it up as a reminder and start on a fresh piece of wood with the new knowledge you've got.
  14. LHL

    Design Problem

    The video works great! Your explanation is great throughout your whole design process and the action looks amazing! Cheers!
  15. I carve everything out of wood so I know nothing about resin haha. Perhaps someone with more experience can chime in.
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