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LHL last won the day on December 1 2020

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  1. I actually really enjoy epoxy I currently have (not etex btw). It has a very hard but not brittle finish and has a long enough work time so I can clear coat 10 baits without it setting up on me. I work slow so the long cure time is actually preferable to me. It's worked great all summer until now but it's no big deal; just glad I found the answer to my problems and potentially help someone else who may have the same issues
  2. I just wanted to briefly share something with you all that I'm sure most of you who read the safety data sheet on your epoxy already knew... My epoxy was taking an exceptionally long time to cure (4+ days) and I couldn't figure it out. I thought that I was not thoroughly mixing it enough or that I was handling the baits too much with bare hands. I ran through the gambit but just couldn't figure things out. One day while reading the side of the epoxy container I noticed that it said the epoxy should be cured in temperatures between 70F and 80F. It's winter here and the heat is on but my in
  3. I would buy the colors you need! For example on my lake I've had a lot of success throwing white and chartreuse baits so I went out and added chartreuse to my collection of paints so that I can paint something I have confidence in. Or one lake I fish has a large population of hammer handle pike so I bought the colors to paint a pike pattern. I first bought the Createx Primary pack for about $25 and then added to the collection as needed.
  4. @eastman03always has the best advice when it comes to musky lures! The only thing I would add to this other than what has already been said, is that when I drill through wire for larger baits, I prefer to drill a pilot hole with a shorter drill bit first for the nose and tail of the bait. The smaller drill bit is much easier to 'aim' and will not wander as much as the long drill bits. It takes a lot of practice but it definitely can be done! The first through wire construction baits I made were the slot method which is the easiest in my opinion but still very time consuming. I prefer
  5. Solid tip right there! I'll have to remember that if I ever use those. I have a bunch in a box but never used them before. But those are GREAT first lures! I can't build a crankbait to save my life so this is much better than I've ever done.
  6. DJ Custom has a nice short video showing his process for taking care of the harbor freight brushes:
  7. The area where the glue is will be stronger than the surrounding wood. It will be tricky when you transition from soft wood to hard glue and back to the soft wood. You could test your skills by gluing up too small pieces and seeing exactly how it carves but I'm going to say that as long as your tools are sharp and you work slowly you shouldn't have a problem with it.
  8. EX-74 has very similar working time as Etex. It takes about 6 hours to get to a tack free stage and 24 hours to fully cure. EX-74 becomes too gummy to work with after about an hour so it should give you plenty of time. I too work slow and usually try to coat multiple baits at the same time so mixing up one big batch of epoxy to clear coat everything has working just fine for me.
  9. I've switched to EX-74 now and really enjoy the results. You can only purchase it in large quantities (1 gallon each of hardener and resin) so if you're only thinking about making a handful of baits a year I would advise against it.
  10. Personally I have not carved details into douglas fir but the key is going to be SHARP tools. I've found carving hardwoods, although difficult, provides much cleaner details than carving something soft like douglas fir or cedar. Take your time with sharp tools and you shouldn't have any issues.
  11. I used Etex for a year before giving it up. It was too soft for my liking and the teeth from pike and musky would go right through multiple layers of clear coat. I also had issues with fisheyes (because I didn't use gloves when handling) but never because of pearlized paints. Another suggestion that might work for you is I wipe down all of my lures with ammonia free glass cleaner and allowing it to fully dry before clear coating. Just spray it on a paper towel and VERY lightly wipe the bait. Since I started doing that and wearing gloves I haven't had fisheye problems.
  12. If you're looking to make just a couple baits (read NOT 100s of the same bait) then a pair of round nose pliers, needle nose pliers, and vise grips are the best way to go.
  13. LHL

    Design Problem

    I agree with Dave's suggestion about using a double hinge and I would also add some more weight to the front section of the body as low as possible to add more stability. Either that or know you need to work it very slow and methodical. Big fish don't like to chase if they don't have to.
  14. I always thought that this video did a great job explaining the process: I've never done it (yet) but it seems like you have all the means to follow along here to make your own eyes. edit: Another video here Shows how he uses photoshop to create the fish eyes for printing.
  15. LHL

    Design Problem

    man that's so cool! Now go catch a fish with it! The action alone should draw some eaters!
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