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Found 90 results

  1. New crankbait color but I haven't named it yet

    © Lure Me In Crankbaits

  2. Custom painted Baby Bass crankbait created by Gills 'n Thrills Customized Lures / Kayla Moore. Color combinations of red, yellow, lime green, hunter green, black and white with a scale pattern and glitter for some special effects. Was brought out fishing after completed and caught a 26 1/2" walleye!
  3. This lure was turned on the wood lathe. The stripe down the side is inlaid maple. The spot is inlaid cedar. Hooks, hardward and bill are all brass. Eyes are brass brads with painted spot. 5" long.
  4. So I'm about to start creating balsa crankbaits. I'm needing some help. I have the shop, the tools to cut, shape, drill, and paint. But I'm needing materials, so some assistance on where the best place to purchase stuff would be great. I need Paint, circuit board material, lexan, ballast weights, wood, and some general knowledge questions answered. I really would like to make a high quality product that not only looks good but works good too. And LASTS. What I want to know is what are some of the best ways to...cut bills, insert bills and line ties as well as hook hangers, I want to foil baits, so any info on what works for you or products that you've used would be awesome.
  5. mdojet

    "Antique Treasure Craw"

    Took my "Crackle method" a step further and made this!

    © Lure Me In Custom Painted Crankbaits

  6. mdojet

    "Antique Treasure Craw"

    © Lure Me In Custom Painted Crankbaits

  7. Hi. First post here. I've wondering about a lip/bill modification that I've seen done on some of the rebel deepwee crawfish crank baits. Megabass particularly adds a bearing into the cylinder under the lip. Has anyone here done something similar with different bills? I was going to give some extremely tough marine style adhesives a try, anyone have any good idea on how this could be done best? Notice the Deep Wee crawfish bill in this picture if you don't understand what I mean. http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vNRkMbbIess/maxresdefault.jpg
  8. I have been recently making wooden crankbaits and I discovered a new design on accident and its a fish magnet! I want to make a company that sells wooden crankbaits, spinnerbaits, jigs, and maybe buzzbaits. Is this realistic if I can come up with an efficient way to produce them? Do you make a living on a lure business? Thanks
  9. Can someone help me identify this 3" lipless crankbait? I can find pictures of it on the internet but no one named it. My friend wants it but can't find it and if he can't find it I am making him something as close as possible to use in the meantime. Features are the angled molded gill plate, red eye, rear hook hangar 1/4" forward of the tip of tail, heavy rattle sound at lower than normal pitch, and round indent on top immediately behind the tip of nose. I'm sure somebody will recognize it. Do they still make it? Is it still available? Thanks in advance, Barry
  10. Where is the best place to buy the best blanks and accessories for baits? I have searched and found a few but seems everything has been the same so far. I am looking for a variety. I have seen pictures of baits that looked awesome and I would love the blanks but I can't find them. So I would just like to ask peoples opinions on where they get there blanks and accessories. Thanks to everyone!
  11. I want to get into pouring my own hard baits but I have 0 understanding of how it even works. What do I need? Do I make or buy molds? How long does it take? Where do you get supplies? Thanks so much.
  12. Vision 110 Minnow in a Natural Crappie Pattern

    © Lure Me In Custom Painted Cranbaits

  13. mdojet

    Lipless Natural Crappie

    Lipless Crankbait in a natural Crappie pattern

    © Lure Me In Custom Painted Crankbaits

  14. O'l Robzilla

    photo 2

    Hey Guys,and Gals. Don't know if any of you remember me from years before, but I'm back my old Tag was Robzilla. Lost my info and everything had to make a new account. Hope to see some of the old gang from yesteryear. Happy lure making to all.

    © Robzilla

  15. This forum inspired me to really try MAKING a bait instead of just painting blanks, so i started out with a strike king crank and noticed a few unexpected perks. After making an RTV silicone mold and experimenting a bit, I found that: 1. inserting a flat lexan bill and running the through wire right under the bill leaves a cavity under the bill for the resin to fill. this cavity completely covers the wire running under the bill and also reinforces the lexan. 2. Pouring the mold and tilting if forward with clear resin allows the bill to be completely clear and create a dense bottom layer. before it fully hardens i add Aluimalite white mixed with microspheres to create a "top" layer to the bait. the bait floats perfectly along this axis, tilting the bill down into the water. the top part of the picture shows the float axis. 3. Stainless steel welding wire is perfect for forming hook hangers, soft enough to bend but .03" wire is incredibly stable. 4. cutting lexan with a scroll saw lets you fully customize the action of your bait, the picture shows a coffin bill, but this bait is normally a rounded bill. i have also made circuit board variations using the exact same mold. if anyone has questions or suggestions, please add them!!! i can't wait to try these out.
  16. This one should rise a few eyebrows. Scotty here and I love to take that book of rules and toss it out the window! This wild and crazy crankbait is 100% Made by me by hand.. Mahagony CB with acrillic and micro watch gears inset into the belly to create a mechanical lure. No its not actually mechanical but it sure looks like it is. This CB even has aprox. 10 Jewls inset inside.. Yes real ruby Jewls inset inside. The Bill is scratch built from a sheet of lucite the wood is golden mahagony the hardwair came from LP VMC 2x hooks and the 7 mm eyes came from ebay.
  17. 2.5 in flat side, rattling crankbait made from balsa wood in chrome plemmons. Dives about 3 feet.
  18. Wake Bait in Rainbow Trout Pattern!
  19. Custom painted RC 2.5 crankbait in Rainbow trout color. Do you guys like this color?
  20. This is a RC 2.5 Crankbait I did in baby bass color. What do you guys think?
  21. Cyberflexx


    What ya think of this late night painting? I thought it looked like a perch or maybe a sunfish.
  22. My version of a blue back herring.
  23. These are my thoughts, opinions and ideas on hunting lures, after six years of investigation and building hunters. All open for discussion, you can disagree and add your own ideas. If you don’t want to read the technical stuff, you can skip to the last paragraph, but don’t whinge about it, there are people who do like to read this stuff. What is hunting – a regular or irregular stepping away from the line of retrieval. The lure zigzags but the lure always returns to center and the retrieval is still basically a straight line. What is so good about hunting – I believe that it is change of direction that triggers the bite. How many times have we seen fish trail the lure all the way back to the rod tip, obviously interested, but not biting. When a fish changes direction, it cannot immediately change again. So immediately after a change in direction would be a good time to attack. I believe that the trailing predator is simply instinctively waiting for that change of direction. What causes hunting – hunting occurs at transitions. This can be at the edge of stability, just before the lure blows out or at the transition between two different actions. At the transition, the lure tries to do something different but reverts back to normal action. This disturbs the regular action pattern and results in a change of direction. Often hunting is seen on a lure when you increase the retrieval speed. Hunting I find is relative to retrieval speed. To explain this, I have to discuss with you my ideas on swim angle. Static angle – when the lure is static, sitting in the water, its angle is determined by its distribution of weight of the different components that are heavier than water; ballast, hooks, harness, lip, top coat, eyes, rings – all have an effect on the center of gravity (CoG), a single point in the lure that all the downward forces are acting. Then there is the center of flotation (CoF), the single point at which all the lighter than water components are acting, namely the bare body. When the lure is still, the CoG and the CoF are vertically aligned and this determines the angle that the lure sits. If you remove the rear hook, the CoG moves forward a tad, then, when the CoG and CoF vertically align, the angle of the lure becomes steeper. Dynamic angle – when the lure starts moving, everything changes. There are new forces on the lure. The static forces of weight and flotation are still there, but there are additional forces; the water passing the lip and the back of the body. As the speed of the lure increases, so these extra dynamic forces become stronger, to the point of making ballast location quite irrelevant in determining the angle that the lure swims. Don’t get me wrong now, ballast is still very important and controls the action, how the lure wobbles, but has very little effect on the swim angle. The forces on the lip below the tow eye are trying to make the lure swim steeper and the forces above the tow eye, on the back of the lure are trying to make the lure swim flatter. The lure swims at an angle were the two forces are equal. Keeping all else equal, if the body is fatter, the lure will swim flatter, if the lip is extended, the lure will swim steeper and so on. This is why the eye position on deep divers is so critical, there is an optimum swim angle for achieving maximum depth. The eye position controls the ration of lip forces to body forces, basically acting as a fulcrum or balance point. Effect of speed – if the dynamic effect on the lip and the body were the same, then the lure would always swim at the same angle and never blow out. But we all know that speed does have an effect on the lures that we build. The dynamic forces on the sharp edged lip build up faster than on the rounded shape of the back. So, as the lure increases in speed, the lure swims steeper in order to balance the two dynamic forces. when the lip reaches vertical, any additional speed will press on the lip and rotate the lure past the vertical. The effective area of the lip will be reduced and the force on the back of the lure will rotate it back again. The lure has now changed action and is porpoising or nodding up and down. The technical term would be pitching. What has this to do with hunting – Like I said earlier, hunting occurs at transitions. Here we have found the pitch/yaw transition. As the lure reaches this transition, the lure will occasionally ‘bob’. This disturbs the wobble action, replacing one of the side movements with a bob and this is what causes the change in direction. As the lure swims away from the line of retrieval, the angle on the inside edge of the lip become steeper. The steeper the edge of the lip, the more force is generated. The lure bobs and direction is changed back towards center. The lure always bobs on the steep side, so the lure always comes back to center. How do I build a hunter – simply build with a lip that is too long and no longer wobbles and has the porpoising action. Trim the lip back until the wobble action just starts and it should hunt. Dave
  24. Cyberflexx

    20130617 102507

    2.5 blank, chartruese with florescent violet back, orange belly, pink throat and red gill marking. thin coat of epoxy, will re-coat tonight.
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