Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'crankbait'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • TU Club Forums
  • General Discussions
    • TU Site Info & Updates
    • The Docks
  • Public Tackle Making Forums
    • Hard Baits
    • Soft Plastics
    • Wire Baits
    • Fly tying
    • Rod & Reel building & repair
    • Boatbuilding
    • Homebrew Tools
    • Hybrid Tackle
  • The Bait Shop
    • Classified Ads
    • TU Advertiser Forum
  • Knowledge Base
    • Member Submitted Tutorials
  • TU Events and Contests
    • TU Events
    • TU Lure Swap
  • Web Tools
  • News Archive
    • General News

Product Groups

  • TU Premium Membership
  • Advertisements
  • TU Swag

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Address


City


State/Province


Zip/Postal code


Country

Found 81 results

  1. Where is the best place to buy the best blanks and accessories for baits? I have searched and found a few but seems everything has been the same so far. I am looking for a variety. I have seen pictures of baits that looked awesome and I would love the blanks but I can't find them. So I would just like to ask peoples opinions on where they get there blanks and accessories. Thanks to everyone!
  2. I want to get into pouring my own hard baits but I have 0 understanding of how it even works. What do I need? Do I make or buy molds? How long does it take? Where do you get supplies? Thanks so much.
  3. Vision 110 Minnow in a Natural Crappie Pattern

    © Lure Me In Custom Painted Cranbaits

  4. mdojet

    Lipless Natural Crappie

    Lipless Crankbait in a natural Crappie pattern

    © Lure Me In Custom Painted Crankbaits

  5. O'l Robzilla

    photo 2

    Hey Guys,and Gals. Don't know if any of you remember me from years before, but I'm back my old Tag was Robzilla. Lost my info and everything had to make a new account. Hope to see some of the old gang from yesteryear. Happy lure making to all.

    © Robzilla

  6. This forum inspired me to really try MAKING a bait instead of just painting blanks, so i started out with a strike king crank and noticed a few unexpected perks. After making an RTV silicone mold and experimenting a bit, I found that: 1. inserting a flat lexan bill and running the through wire right under the bill leaves a cavity under the bill for the resin to fill. this cavity completely covers the wire running under the bill and also reinforces the lexan. 2. Pouring the mold and tilting if forward with clear resin allows the bill to be completely clear and create a dense bottom layer. before it fully hardens i add Aluimalite white mixed with microspheres to create a "top" layer to the bait. the bait floats perfectly along this axis, tilting the bill down into the water. the top part of the picture shows the float axis. 3. Stainless steel welding wire is perfect for forming hook hangers, soft enough to bend but .03" wire is incredibly stable. 4. cutting lexan with a scroll saw lets you fully customize the action of your bait, the picture shows a coffin bill, but this bait is normally a rounded bill. i have also made circuit board variations using the exact same mold. if anyone has questions or suggestions, please add them!!! i can't wait to try these out.
  7. This one should rise a few eyebrows. Scotty here and I love to take that book of rules and toss it out the window! This wild and crazy crankbait is 100% Made by me by hand.. Mahagony CB with acrillic and micro watch gears inset into the belly to create a mechanical lure. No its not actually mechanical but it sure looks like it is. This CB even has aprox. 10 Jewls inset inside.. Yes real ruby Jewls inset inside. The Bill is scratch built from a sheet of lucite the wood is golden mahagony the hardwair came from LP VMC 2x hooks and the 7 mm eyes came from ebay.
  8. 2.5 in flat side, rattling crankbait made from balsa wood in chrome plemmons. Dives about 3 feet.
  9. Wake Bait in Rainbow Trout Pattern!
  10. Custom painted RC 2.5 crankbait in Rainbow trout color. Do you guys like this color?
  11. This is a RC 2.5 Crankbait I did in baby bass color. What do you guys think?
  12. Cyberflexx

    Perch

    What ya think of this late night painting? I thought it looked like a perch or maybe a sunfish.
  13. My version of a blue back herring.
  14. These are my thoughts, opinions and ideas on hunting lures, after six years of investigation and building hunters. All open for discussion, you can disagree and add your own ideas. If you don’t want to read the technical stuff, you can skip to the last paragraph, but don’t whinge about it, there are people who do like to read this stuff. What is hunting – a regular or irregular stepping away from the line of retrieval. The lure zigzags but the lure always returns to center and the retrieval is still basically a straight line. What is so good about hunting – I believe that it is change of direction that triggers the bite. How many times have we seen fish trail the lure all the way back to the rod tip, obviously interested, but not biting. When a fish changes direction, it cannot immediately change again. So immediately after a change in direction would be a good time to attack. I believe that the trailing predator is simply instinctively waiting for that change of direction. What causes hunting – hunting occurs at transitions. This can be at the edge of stability, just before the lure blows out or at the transition between two different actions. At the transition, the lure tries to do something different but reverts back to normal action. This disturbs the regular action pattern and results in a change of direction. Often hunting is seen on a lure when you increase the retrieval speed. Hunting I find is relative to retrieval speed. To explain this, I have to discuss with you my ideas on swim angle. Static angle – when the lure is static, sitting in the water, its angle is determined by its distribution of weight of the different components that are heavier than water; ballast, hooks, harness, lip, top coat, eyes, rings – all have an effect on the center of gravity (CoG), a single point in the lure that all the downward forces are acting. Then there is the center of flotation (CoF), the single point at which all the lighter than water components are acting, namely the bare body. When the lure is still, the CoG and the CoF are vertically aligned and this determines the angle that the lure sits. If you remove the rear hook, the CoG moves forward a tad, then, when the CoG and CoF vertically align, the angle of the lure becomes steeper. Dynamic angle – when the lure starts moving, everything changes. There are new forces on the lure. The static forces of weight and flotation are still there, but there are additional forces; the water passing the lip and the back of the body. As the speed of the lure increases, so these extra dynamic forces become stronger, to the point of making ballast location quite irrelevant in determining the angle that the lure swims. Don’t get me wrong now, ballast is still very important and controls the action, how the lure wobbles, but has very little effect on the swim angle. The forces on the lip below the tow eye are trying to make the lure swim steeper and the forces above the tow eye, on the back of the lure are trying to make the lure swim flatter. The lure swims at an angle were the two forces are equal. Keeping all else equal, if the body is fatter, the lure will swim flatter, if the lip is extended, the lure will swim steeper and so on. This is why the eye position on deep divers is so critical, there is an optimum swim angle for achieving maximum depth. The eye position controls the ration of lip forces to body forces, basically acting as a fulcrum or balance point. Effect of speed – if the dynamic effect on the lip and the body were the same, then the lure would always swim at the same angle and never blow out. But we all know that speed does have an effect on the lures that we build. The dynamic forces on the sharp edged lip build up faster than on the rounded shape of the back. So, as the lure increases in speed, the lure swims steeper in order to balance the two dynamic forces. when the lip reaches vertical, any additional speed will press on the lip and rotate the lure past the vertical. The effective area of the lip will be reduced and the force on the back of the lure will rotate it back again. The lure has now changed action and is porpoising or nodding up and down. The technical term would be pitching. What has this to do with hunting – Like I said earlier, hunting occurs at transitions. Here we have found the pitch/yaw transition. As the lure reaches this transition, the lure will occasionally ‘bob’. This disturbs the wobble action, replacing one of the side movements with a bob and this is what causes the change in direction. As the lure swims away from the line of retrieval, the angle on the inside edge of the lip become steeper. The steeper the edge of the lip, the more force is generated. The lure bobs and direction is changed back towards center. The lure always bobs on the steep side, so the lure always comes back to center. How do I build a hunter – simply build with a lip that is too long and no longer wobbles and has the porpoising action. Trim the lip back until the wobble action just starts and it should hunt. Dave
  15. Cyberflexx

    20130617 102507

    2.5 blank, chartruese with florescent violet back, orange belly, pink throat and red gill marking. thin coat of epoxy, will re-coat tonight.
  16. SCAngler

    shallow stalker

    4' diver with clunk style rattle/ballast weight
  17. Cyberflexx

    7 5 2013 Crankbait

    This started as a white bass pro shops bargain bin "tournament special". I primed it white, custom mix chartruese on the sides, a little pearl white on the top with a light blue spine and scale pattern. Yellow belly and pink throat. I used a red sharpie for the gill blood streaks and the dotted eyes and a black sharpie for the diamond kill dot. I used harbor freight 5 min epoxy diluted with rubbing alcohol and a tad of blue glitter mixed with it. Cured on the drywheel for 9 hours. I'm getting better and better... Whatcha think?
  18. Cyberflexx

    7 2 2013Crankbait

    I airbrushed this clearance rack Cotton Cordell deep diver last night. I did it in a Black back, hand mixed chartreuse, pearlized white mist the bottom (just a tad), and pink throat. Tell me what ya think.
  19. Cyberflexx

    DT10RoyalGrape

    Here is another Royal Grape, Made from a DT10 clone body. This one has no gill markings or kill dot. The top is Royal Grape color ( mixed with purple, black and cobalt blue), yellow belly and a pink throat. There are silver holgraphic ( changing color ), blue and a tad of yellow glitter mixed into the epoxy. I took this to work to show my fishing friends and a few guys wanted to buy it from me. This one is being sent to my buddy in TN.
  20. I have seen some else used this (and I was amazed at the quality) and I was wandering whether or not if somebody had used this product as well and other possible ways to clear coat a crankbait without yellowing....
  21. Here is a HotRod crankbait I made last summer. The body is a bandit 200 that was chipped up really bad. I lightly sanded, primed it white, then shot it with krylon plasticoat black. The flames were made from duct tape that had flames on it. I took a blade and cut out two of the flames and taped them to the body. I think it turned out really neat after epoxy coating and drying on the dry wheel. Let me know what you think of Little Hot Rod
  22. Here is a crankbait I made last night for a friend. I call it Royal Grape. Its an RC 2.5 clone blank, primered white with Krylon plasticote, bottom is yellow creatix airbrush paint, the purple color is walmart 99 cent bottle acrylic diluted 50/50 with water until consistency of milk, with 2 drops of black creatix, and 2 drops of acrylic cobalt blue. the gill markings are red sharpie marker, and the kill dot is black sharpie marker and I used a metal washer as a template for the dot. The epoxy is locktite 5min epoxy, dliluted with a bit of irubbing alcohol and blue/purple/silver and a tad of yellow glitter mixed into it and put on the dry wheel over night. Its hard to see the silver glitter as I didnt put much in the mix, and it blends into the white. you can see a little bit of the yellow glitter along the back spine. I forgot to take the tape off the bill before i snapped the picture. I'm new to airbrushing and painting cranks, please tell me what you think of this one..
  23. I have heard of this Solarez. I am looking to get started in our making and trying to find the cheapest way out on everything that will also produce the best product for the price. I have heard this stuff does really good. So my question to everyone is what exactly is it, how is it applied/used, where to get it, price and how is the product?
  24. I am looking to get started with painting my own crankbaits and was wondering what all i needed to do it. Hoping someone could tell me all the things i need to get to get started. Also where are places to get blanks, hooks, etc for crankbaits. What types of paint are the best to use and whats best for clear coating. Anything that i would need to know to paint my own baits would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
×
×
  • Create New...
Top