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Showing results for tags 'swimbait'.
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G'day Guys, I just finally finished up my swimbait project. I filmed every step as per usual so I figured this would be the best place to share it. A fair bit of time went into it but I'm very happy with the result. Hope you guys enjoy!
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I took off after work yesterday with a couple boxes of baits made from the original QD275 prototype mold. My first cast was up in the brush and never hit the water, but my first cast that hit the water got bit and boated a keeper. A few minutes later I stuck this 5+ pounder. The bait works. Got a dozen on it give or take. First time on the water and the bait worked great. P.S. I was using a ML XF spinning rod with 20lb braid. She put a hurt on that rod, but the line handled her just fine. Was a lot of fun on an ML rod. -
I am designer noob who has a bug ready for market. It needs a 3.5" swim bait like a Berkley Grass Pig Jr. (boot tail, sock tail, paddle tail, paddle foot etc.) preferably without the hook slot. I would prefer to stay USA. I am still hunting around for a generic OEM as none of the name brands have the interest or the capacity to handle my needs.
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Hey everybody, this is my first post here on TU, and I hope i'm not regurgitating past topics here but... I just cast my first resin glide bait, a 8.5" rainbow trout. My first casting was as a single-piece, but I decided to lay the molds out flat and try it in two pieces. The reason for this was to try and cut weight by hollowing out the front and rear sections when it had cured (which I did), then epoxy everything together. The result is still 7.5 ounces, as pictured. So, my question is: Is it possible to cut this weight of something like this down to, say, 4.5 or 5 ounces? Is there a technique/resin type that can help cut the weight down? I'm using a two-piece silicone mold based upon a hand carved wood trout design I made. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
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Hi Guys, Long time lurker here.. I have been gathering information from all over the web and TU directly for months and decided that today was going to be the day I take the plunge. I have to say that I am pretty proud of myself all in all minus the fact that I caught myself a couple times (see thumb below) + need to get my head and tail less thick (hopefully that makes sense). I definitely gained a whole new respect for the lure makers of the fishing world. I would like to hear some feedback - What do you guys think? 1-10 body and shaping wise.. do I need to go back to the drawing board or am I on the right track?
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Ghost green- 5 in . fat body swimbait -
hey folks, recently I've been working on a trout swimbait and one of the things I've decided to do with it is to add frog hooks concealed as fins on it's underside. originally i was going to mold the fins out of plastic but that raised some issues with its durability. so i decided to tie the fins. i was hoping someone could help give me some ideas with making the fins. I'm thinking either dyed turkey feather sandwiching the barbs of the frog hook or buck tail. I think I would have problems shaping the bucktail and the turkey feather might affect the swimbaits action. any help is appreciated.
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Hey folks, just wrapped up my near final trout swimbait painting pattern with a few pointers from a local taxidermist. I excluded a few of the steps that I was given for the sake of simplicity (one of the ones I'm going to use is a layer of gold above the lateral line, hence the "near final") and it came out pretty dandy. I painted it on a TP roll so that I wouldn't have to waste another blank. https://mobile.twitter.com/bassosaurus_rex/media/grid?idx=0
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Hey folks, my current swimbait project is coming along nicely, I have a few bodies ready for carving and I have a paint plan set out and a I'm just about ready for making moulds. However, there is a small road bump. I have very few power tools and cutting joints I proving a problem. My tools of choice are as follows; chop saw, handheld jigsaw, woodworking vice, handheld drill, belt sander and a dremel. I was hoping some one could tell me how to make a joint with those meager tools. Note: Hardware is not a problem.
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I' ve been painting for about 3 months. This is the 1st one that I felt was good enough to post of TU. I don't know what that spot behind the eye is. It only shows up on the picture. Ron -
Little nest guarding snacks! -
16cm wooded glidebait, hinged joint with laminated finish -
Repainted into a squaw fish for the Westcoast anglers. -
Hello TU clan. Thanks for all the groundwork and experiments you guys have done. Soo much great information. So here she is, my first posted bait. Not my first bait. I used to make a ton of triple trout clones by pouring epoxy. Here is how she was made. PVC board blank hand carved, Foil finish technique posted by Husky- i based my blanks off of a picture and used that same photo to make the three separate graphics. one for the belly and each side. sealed with two coats solarez tail is temporary laminated plastic sheeting- any input on a permanent replaceable tail would be huge hook hangers are hand twisted wire where i live they just banned lead weights so i had to buy a mold and hand pour those too It is a suspending (almost perfect) wide S swimmer. pulls almost 1.5 ft turns with a slight roll like a sick bluegill.
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Time to test out my new baby bass! -
Here is my latest trout in a rainbow pattern. It is 20cm long and weighs around 140 gr. Casted from Resin, with thru wired stainless steel and weights.© donak
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Hey guys, I am trying to make my own hair tails out of the FishHair synthetic hair. Right now it is a pretty difficult process as far as getting the hair to stay together at the base. I've tried super glue to keep it together at the base and then I will cut the tail into the shape I like. I am wondering if there is a more simple effective way to make swimbait tails out of this hair material. Let me know!
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This lure has a 5" body (10" with tail), and is hand carved from select A grade cedar. It also contains a super loud handmade rattle chamber in the head that takes full advantage of the head roll action this rat has when being retrieved. The lure is hand painted with a brush to achieve the most realistic presentation. Honestly, you can't see the real beauty of this bait until you see it in the water. Please check out my video below. -
This is my 16cm (6,3 inch) slow sinking brownie/ char swimbait. The mainbody is carved from beech wood and the fins are made from spruce and glued into the body. The body is covered with very fine diamond shaped scales that are more scratched/ engraved than really carved into the wood. The paintjob is a mix of chrome spraycan primer, airbrushed base layers and brushpainted details. The bait has an epoxy finish but I also gave it a second very thin coat of semigloss varnish to reduce the shinyness a little bit. -
This is a hand poured 7" Soft Plastic Crappie Swimbait. There are several steps that go into making this bait. The first step is to carve a master from PVC board. Then I make a PoP mold of the master. The custom harass is then placed in the mold, and the plastisol is hand poured in a two part process. The swimbait is painted using hand brushes and an air brush to achieve the final finish. This finish was modeled after a northern Florida black crappie. -
This is a two piece shiner lure hand carved from a piece of dried pine, it is all stainless hardwear and has a few coats of epoxy to protected every thing.. Swims great at any speed I hope it will land a monster for the guy that bought it! -
The Fat Pike Swim is the best homemade lure by YOD LURES A 25 cm swimbait for almost 220 gr 100% homemade with silicon molds, resin, and custom airbrush painting Lure articulated in 5 parts with a soft tail and fins also homemade 1 week work for each lure This big bait was designed for pike biggest specimens fishing Check out the video :© YOD LURES
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16cm wooded glidebait, hinged joint with laminated finish, waiting for epoxy coat
