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Found 19 results

  1. Does KBS Diomond Clear need to be stored in a mason jar to keep it from going bad or am I fine just putting the lid back on it?
  2. Has anyone ever used anything other than epoxy to add clear to lures? I've noticed lots of people using that but is there anything else to use like createx gloss top coat? Why is epoxy so popular does it not scratch? HELP PLEASE!!!!
  3. Hi all, I am new to the site and hard bait building. Last year I started lure making but stuck to easier lures like bucktails, spinnerbaits and some other hair/fur type lures. This off season I have decided to try my hand at some deep and shallow crankbaits and some dive/rise jerkbaits. These are for personal use only, I may give the odd one to a friend but I have no intention of selling them. I have spent the last several months reading a lot of material, includign a lot on here, and trying to figure out my plan of attack and have finally come up with the following process. 1) I will be
  4. drdmh

    Spraying KBS

    I've made the switch to KBS last fall and production time really has increased for me. I'm getting the the point where I'd consider myself a high-volume painter and every step counts when trying to get baits to customers, especially the ones that wait til the last minute to order. Although KBS cures quickly and is virtually dummy-proof, I can still see where some steps can me eliminated that are causing time delays. For instance, I have to clean the hook hangers after each coat so it doesn't build up enough to peel paint. I think spraying kbs would help eliminate that and speed up my produ
  5. Wassup Guys!!! Sorry I have been MIA for a while. Got a new job and had a little girl a few years ago so time has not been spent in the shop. I recently got back out and building again so I am trying to see what the latest is on the all purpose, do it all, dippable, one coat, dries rock hard in 5 min no turner needed brilliant UV stable top coat. OK now that that is out of my system... I am fully aware that the best finish is purely subjective and probably never going to be found. Thus, I am looking to see whats the latest on top coats. From what i can dig up its basically still th
  6. I've recently started painting crankbaits and use BSI as a top coat. BSI cures at temps over 70 degF, however, in the winter my basement gets cold. Temps are usually in the upper 50s/low 60s. I'm thinking of constructing a heater with halogen lights, but I'm worried about the fire hazard. Is there an alternative clear coat that I could use that is just as durable as BSI, but has a wider range of temps? I've looked at KBS but I'm concerned about the fumes, and would like brush it on if possible. What other choices do I have.
  7. I know I'm probably opening a can of worms here but I need advice on the best clear coat for finishing my baits after they've been painted. I want the paint job I put out to be an equal to what you find at the stores. This seems to be a big secret. I started out using water based paints, and 2 part epoxy as a finish. Then moved on to the different MCUs (DN, Garco, Diamond, etc..) and they just aren't like what you get from large scale manufacturers. What are they using?!? Is it a secret MCU receipe? Is it automotive finish? Oil paints? I've stayed away from oil paints and automotive fin
  8. First Post and learning a lot from you tackle guys. I don't paint hardbaits but I do paint some small objects that see similar abuse. I was looking at options above and beyond typical 2k automotive clearcoat. I need to be able to spray the clear as film build is key for me. I had recently picked up some Klasskote clear and it sprays great but had a yellow hue to the hardener. Couple questions for you old dogs. Is epoxy clear truly that much harder then 2k automotive clear? Is there any brand of sprayable epoxy clear out there that doesn't yellow as fast? Thanks for any replies I truly
  9. I searched this forum for info on glitter applied to lures and found a lot of good information so this topic may be covered elsewhere (just can find it), but here goes. I have a guy who wants a shiny stripe painted along the lateral lines on some of his lures. I figured on just using iridescent paint to make the stripe. Turns out he wants a glitter stripe using "rainbow" colored glitter over turquoise paint. I've use glitter on a few baits but I don't use it a lot and never for detail stuff like a stripe. I'm thinking of using a stencil for the stripe then removing the stencil before the s
  10. I've been searching thru all the old solarez threads & decided to call the owner myself. He told me that if I wanted a true matte finish on my crankbaits, that I would need: Solarez Matte Finish Doming Resin Have any of yall used this product, or do I need a different one of the solarez products? I'm currently using D2T or Etex, but I need a matte finish crawdad pattern. Any input or advice is greatly welcomed. Thanks
  11. I'm new to this site but I'm hoping someone here will have experience with this problem. First I want to say the folks here have posted some great information on tackle making and I've learned a lot in a short time...so thanks to all. Anyway, I have been experimenting with MCU as a finish coat on my hand painted hard plastic lures....with mixed results. The product is made by Graco and is recommended by some lure painters on other sites. The issue is the stuff seems to cause the paint to wrinkle on some lures. Two lures from the same batch with the same pattern may have totally different
  12. Hi all, I was watching youtube videos of lure making. On several of them, I saw a rotisserie in use to rotate the lure so clear coat doesn't run. I checked fleabay and found a rotisserie motor for 4 bucks and a couple of dollars shipping. I rigged up a rotisserie that I can clamp my back eye hook onto. I want to tell you what.......No matter how long you have been making lures, if you clear coat them, you need to get a rotisserie. It makes it almost look like you know what you are doing with finishes. Wow, what a difference. The finish goes on thick, thick, thick and levels out to a mirro
  13. Thinking of getting into pouring jigs and was wondering what is the most durable way to finish a jigs paint job and the most durable way to set a weed guard? Thanks in advance Joe
  14. I have been using a fiberglass resin for my clear coat. It is awesome stuff and cures in about 20 minutes or so. It is USC fiberglass resin. I mix it in small batches and do about 6 lures at a time, brushing it on. I happen to have a pic in my phone that might help. Just to the right of the lure, you can see the can and lable. I hope it is ok to put a pic here for this purpose.... Any thoughts, degatives, comments? Tim
  15. Hows it going everybody? Newbie here, and just painted up my first couple spoons. Now i'm just looking for a clear coat for them. Dick Nite clear coat is the front runner now. Any suggestions? Tips? For Spoons. Thanks. spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm
  16. I have heard of this Solarez. I am looking to get started in our making and trying to find the cheapest way out on everything that will also produce the best product for the price. I have heard this stuff does really good. So my question to everyone is what exactly is it, how is it applied/used, where to get it, price and how is the product?
  17. Hey guys, I have 32oz. of flex coat v. its the formula thats resistant to uv yellowing. do you guys think this would be ok for my clear coat.
  18. I finally fixed the order problem for you guys! I built a new order page for TackleUndergrounders! No more of the old, "send an email, wait for a response and for me to pack the order and weigh it so I can send you a PayPal invoice, wait for a response, me get the payment, write up the order in the computer, put the shipment into the UPS software, print the label, and ship the order all while you wait again" process... Trust me, I appreciate the hassle it has been for all of you, and I assure it has been no cake-walk here either... Well, it's all fixed, in place, and ready to roll! Now, y
  19. I am looking to get some brushes for my clear coat. I have looked at the disposable brushes in my area, and they only make them in pretty small widths. Since I am coating larger jigs - 1-4 oz - I want some brushes that are a bit wider. I have had pretty good success in reusing fairly cheap (1.e. ~$2-3) brushes by washing them in alcohol as soon as I am done coating. I want to get some more of these brushes, but I am wondering what would be best for busting bubbles and getting a good clear coat 1- a nice soft bristle 2- a rather stiff bristle I am looking at brushes that have fairly fine br
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