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Found 30 results

  1. Hi all, I am new to the site and hard bait building. Last year I started lure making but stuck to easier lures like bucktails, spinnerbaits and some other hair/fur type lures. This off season I have decided to try my hand at some deep and shallow crankbaits and some dive/rise jerkbaits. These are for personal use only, I may give the odd one to a friend but I have no intention of selling them. I have spent the last several months reading a lot of material, includign a lot on here, and trying to figure out my plan of attack and have finally come up with the following process. 1) I will be using primarily cedar, western red and eastern white. Both easily accessible and reasonably priced. At some point I may try some different types of wood but chose cedar as a start. 2) I will seal the bait with a couple dips in sanding sealer. Sand with fine paper after it dries. 3) Apply a coat of primer paint. 4) Paint the lures with acrylics. To start we will just be using brush on paints, we used to paint for a hobby so we have the paints and brushes etc. In the future we will look into an air brush. 5) Insert dive bib on crankbaits or dive tail in the jerkbaits. I will be using 5 or 6mm Lexan for my dive bibs, and I have dive tails from lure parts online. 6) Coat with a couple layers of ETEK as the clear coat. I will build a turner. I will be using primarily through wire construction, by cutting the lures down the centerline and glueing the two halves back together once the internals have been put in the correct places. I may build a couple with screw eyes just as test specimens. I have found the template for the Grandmas so as a starting point I was going to try some minnowbait style lures, thickness of baits will likely vary from the originals so I plan to modify my lip accordingly, I acknowledge this will be a trial and error process. As it will be with all crankbaits in determining the best bib shape, angle, size, line tie location etc. With all this said there are still a couple of factors I am racking my brain around and was hoping some of the builders here could provide some insight. Q1) Any recommendations on a decent primer paint to use. I am not sure I even need this, maybe a white base coat will be sufficient over the sealed bait. If I need primer specifically I would prefer a brush on or dip as I do not have the room to be spraying aerosol paint cans. Q2) What is the avg thickness or weight addition of the clear coat when using ETEK. I will likely do 2 layers, more if needed, and I know this will vary by bait size and builder but is there a general thickness I could use to try and estimate the weight I will be adding with the clear coat. Off the top of my head I was thinking around 3 mm additional thickness, on each side. In my view determining the weight addition by the epoxy, which on a 10-14" bait can be a few oz, is more important than the actual increase in dimensions. I figure the extra size can be overcome with a bigger bib, only time will tell with some trial and error. Q3) Has anyone ever discovered any type of relationship between bib and lure size, they are willing to share. For example the minnow baits I am attempting will be similar in shape to Jakes, Grandmas, Shallowraiders etc. However my bait width/thickness will vary from these, especially until I figure out the additinal thickness I add from the clear coat and paints. I intend to use similar weighting locations as the named baits do, I found the Grandma templates online, and I will adjust the bib size according to the lure width (potentially add more width on shallow divers and more width and possibly length on the deeper divers). I plan to use linear extrapolation to come up with the starting bib sizes. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I will post any findings I make as I embark on this adventure. Thanks Mark
  2. Carefully handmade from maple, these lures include high quality treble hooks and components, and will catch any fish that would eat bait of this size.
  3. Hello everybody! Today I made a big misstake at the workshop. I drilled 1 of 2 weight holes in the wrong place on 50 lures today.I dont know how I managed to do that haha! Is there a good way to fill these holes up and then drill new holes in the right position? Maybe by making a filler by mixing epoxy and saw dust? The wood I use has the density around 0,65-0,75m3 and the epoxy I use has the density just over 1,0 so the epoxy is heavier than the wood. /Pickadollbaits
  4. Hello, I look for a shop where I can buy some big unpainted jerkait for pike/muskie. Someone have website to advice me ? Thanks in advance
  5. I have made a video on how I painted it which can be found here.
  6. Hi from Poland! My name is Peter. About 6-7 ears ago ive back to making my own plugs. It Was mostly resin lures like: crankbaits, jerkbaits, spoons, and many lipless lures. For now im in teh middle of translating tutorial about resin basics and will show it to you when im done. Here's a few of my recent lures. Jerkbais: Spoons: https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12642685_813977805391950_1781982541240745545_n.jpg?oh=4cfcf35f1746c62582c7fdbd708ea5e5&oe=589E51DE https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12219435_779479615508436_1486680411267016383_n.jpg?oh=17539034b0f68b287a2bf97ae206213e&oe=589BCEFC Hybrid crankbait (Enigma1) https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13903415_933325866790476_1031054841812394857_n.jpg?oh=e3ad8c68971556db52801079c4f833bb&oe=58A77E0C https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13935024_933325870123809_1506370202532939327_n.jpg?oh=6ae0d4a64fc9c47ae1007361179d05a7&oe=58A523C0 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13921140_933325873457142_8999563828153677786_n.jpg?oh=2e059e1f701813463e2dfba1d8697fef&oe=589EEBFB https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13876370_933325896790473_5450543281981764264_n.jpg?oh=57f7b4d61398596357514b2ef8c5c1b3&oe=586567E8 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13892287_933325900123806_8899410209554515036_n.jpg?oh=fdca1d90b45877f6a39714d4969864b7&oe=5898DE74 Some custom crank https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12642846_813978218725242_6625636630263184373_n.jpg?oh=c5b746eca532e7f42623a57a55a79569&oe=58A70101 https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12573943_813978292058568_3962757056536123070_n.jpg?oh=1fb2af0383aa0c88a009940eab319113&oe=58911FDD https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12592722_813978142058583_7625338211956573468_n.jpg?oh=d1b75fbac8aedc6910b313596454be90&oe=58640BCA https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12592335_813978182058579_4629200315476108435_n.jpg?oh=0edd71291bdd1ec80be8e468f492980b&oe=58A8A38B http://jerkbait.pl/uploads/monthly_12_2015/post-50550-0-25463400-1450817866.jpg http://jerkbait.pl/uploads/monthly_12_2015/post-50550-0-95288800-1450817890.jpg And a lipless minnows http://jerkbait.pl/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-50550-0-67077600-1444508430.jpg http://jerkbait.pl/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-50550-0-91422100-1444508419.jpg http://jerkbait.pl/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-50550-0-70250600-1444508405.jpg http://jerkbait.pl/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-50550-0-34450600-1444508391.jpg
  7. Hey guys, So I have this new glider that guys are going nuts for and ive switched to plastic and its pretty much ready to be produced in quantity. Unlike my previous models that were wood. I opted to go hard plastic so I can produce more to sell. My only problem is that painting is seriously kicking my butt. Im not quite sure what the issue is. I use plastic resin from a company called fabricast 50 from specialty resins. Now the main problem im assuming is the bonding. But it only really occurs on the back and belly of the bait. So thats no good when it comes to epoxying. It's almost like something is coming through the bait which I thought was some sort of contamination. But I use wax and grease remover prior to priming. Is it the spray bomb primer? Should I use a adhesive spray instead?
  8. Here are two sinking glidebaits , that I've named "DaBomb" due to their shape , .......the idea for this lure was spawned by having seen a "River Run Manta" pool video years ago , the sideward glide of this lure was just amazing and I figured out , that this was because of it's stabilizing tail fin minimizing the roll of the lure on an initial jerk with the rodtip , just putting more energy into the forward glide instead of wasting the inertia into a roll . Thought about making sucha lure without an added polycarbonate fin and turned the blank with an integrated knob in the rear , from which I had carved out the fins . The initial prototype made more than three years ago caught a few fish , before I finally hung it into a tree , ...shortly after I made these two new ones ,..... but now , after sucha long time , I finally finished them , the blanks have hung in the basement untouched for more than two years ,.......this time in a crackled finish with one base color and two covering colors . The larger one sports a small diving plane , as with the first prototype I had found , that the lure has a tendency to come up towards the surface , ....so maybe the diving plane would help to maintain depth ? Here is a video of the first "DaBomb" prototype , displaying fish caught an some words of explanation,......... hopefully these two new ones would perform the same or even better(and not end up in a tree as well (LOL) : Greetz , Dieter
  9. mmire5

    Realistic carp

    Small jerkbait made of linden wood, Lenght 9cm, weight 28gr. Painted with an airbrush...
  10. The Jerkbi-J Medium is a 18 cm jerkbait for around 70 gr This custom paint is the Green Fluor Scales color The lure and painting are entirely handmade by YOD LURES Lure resin (cast in silicon molds) and airbrush painting This lure is designed for pike fishing and other predators like perchs, zanders, black bass Check the video :

    © YOD LURES

  11. Hello guys. I mostly make resin plastic lures cause I want to make detailed lures with gills, mouth and scales. But I started to wonder how guys like Melosh fishing lures makes his detailed wood lures. He seals the wood with something without covering up all the details. I only got Epoxy clear coat like Envirotex and so on and that would cover up all the details before I can start to paint the lures. I need something that sucks into the wood 100%. Grain filler? oil? how do I do it? I upload a photo of one of my resin plastic lures so you get an idea on how I want to make my wood lures to look like. Hope you understand what I mean. I'm from Sweden and not that great at english hehe.
  12. country: germany material: polyurethan color: Wicked, Hansa pro-color finish: etex
  13. country: germany material: polyurethan color: Wicked, Hansa pro-color finish: etex
  14. raidenas

    babypike_tail

    © Raidenas

  15. raidenas

    Frogs

    © Raiden

  16. This is a bait that I recently painted, I call it blue shad. What do you guys think? Feedback is much appreciated Thanks Guys< Brad
  17. Pickadoll

    Jerk tails

    I tested some new techniques. Metal leaf, carved scales and a couple of different foils.
  18. Pickadoll

    Tailbaits

    Here is some new lures I've made. All three is tail baits.
  19. Jio

    Mid-Tail

    This is my first paddle tail jerkbait.
  20. Pickadoll

    Jerbait tail gliders

    My new resin model and first tailbait ever. Colors: Northern Pike, Dirty roach (skitmört).
  21. Pickadoll

    Jerkbait tail gliders

    My new resin model and first tailbait ever. Colors: Bloody white, firetiger
  22. Jaraal

    1, 2 & 3 Testing testing

    Jaraal Original TOOTHGRINDER prototype. 11 cm 45 gram. Pure oiled oakbait with one hook. Pike 95 cm 6.6kg. Nice first tryout indeed. With best regards Jari Aalto aka Jaraal

    © Jari Aalto

  23. Pickadoll

    First Own model

    This is my first own lure model ! Firetiger color. Jerkbait 15cm long. 58grams without hooks before coating process Made of Smooth on plastic Feather lite.
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