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Found 20 results

  1. I have resenty purchased a hard bait kit from alumalite but ran out of the high strength 2 mold making rubber because it only comes with one pound I would like to buy more but is 27.99 for only one pound does anyone know about a cheaper alternative capable of making a two piece mold.
  2. Hey all, Just wanted to put up a good word about Enforcer bait molds, I'm a hobby guy who just bought his first ever machined aluminum 2 pc mold, a 2 cavity grub, and the thing works awesome, the order process was easy, and I had the mold 5 days after order. Not affiliated with the company, just a guy who appreciates good service when he gets it and is willing to spread the word.
  3. This is my first post. I've been browsing around for quite some time and I felt like it was time to give back to the community who helped get me started in soft bait making. After much trial and error I have been wanting to put out some info about 3D printed molds, First, you don't need a super high tech printer to make a good bait mold. The printer I started with was less than $170. Most CAD software worth having can be had for FREE to a hobbyist( I recommend Autodesk Fusion 360). With that being said, most frustration for me has come in the form of learning to design in a virtual space. If you can do that you have it licked. If you are new to CAD, youtube is a wealth of info but I promise YOU CAN LEARN!!!! On to the details: (Steam-lined) #1.Printing open pour molds is surprisingly easy. PLA is very capable of holding up to the rigors of pouring softbaits. Settings that seem to work well for me are 1.4 mm wall thickness with at least 20% infill. Perhaps printed molds have a shelf life however with over 125 documented pulls on my double cavity, open pour, chunk mold I think for personal use it more than does the job ( I have the file stored to print a new mold if needed, which takes roughly 2.5 hr print time). #2 If you want to make a custom mold for yourself the cost to quality cant be beat. #3 I have found injection molds I printed to be less than stellar. I have had more luck designing a 2 piece mold in two sections and the making a silicone mold of each side, then injecting. With this process it allows you to have a mother mold which you can reproduce as many times as you would like. #4 Sometime printing a actual model and then making a silicone mold is a good option #5 If you don't own a 3D printer their are plenty of 3rd parties that can print you design at reasonable prices I'll be happy to answer any questions anyone might have. Attached Pics are my chunk mold with a printed chunk that I made silicone molds off of as well as a two piece mold with masters
  4. Thank's everyone for their contribution and insight on this website. I want to test my own POP molds with a small batch of plastic. I'm starting with Senkos. I'm ordering Baitjunky's 1 Gal plastisol. What else all do I need to make the Senkos? Plastisol is not your ordinary material but aren't the additives such as heat stabilizer, hardener, softner, worm oil, pigments, and scents things you can buy elsewhere? Thanks again.
  5. My dad and I are searching for a 4 oz bottom bouncer mold to no avail. We have found the three models from Do-It and talked to them on the phone, however they only go up to 3 oz. I'm positive that a 4 oz would work better for our fishing, but am having the damndest time finding one. It was recommended I seek out Hilts, but am coming up empty there too, so thought maybe I could get some feedback from this forum to see if anyone else has knowledge of that big of a bottom bouncer mold, aside from taking a blank and finding a local C&C shop to bore it out. Has anyone here ever come across a 4oz mold? Thanks for your time, if anyone could give me feedback either way.
  6. Material: 1. Hard wood handle is salvaged from a broken rubber mallet. I knew I saved this for a reason. 2. 1/8 Hard stainless wire .o62 with loop. This was purchased but not used because it was too hard for a thru wire lure construction (cost .99C). Process: 1. 1/4" Counter bore 5/16" deep. 2. .0627 holes 2ea spaced as shown. 3. Cut handle to desired length. I cut mine to allow material to extend past my hand on both sides when held. 4. Insert SS wire and trim to fit mold; then smooth cut end. 5. Wire is held securely with friction. If wire is ever needed to be replaced just push out the old one and replace with a new one.
  7. Meed help finding a lure. its a discontinued soft plastic made by a Georgia based company thats not around anymore. i have two of the original lures. and need help finding more or making a mold for them so i can make them myself. will pay for a mold. the company is "Rattlesnake Tackle Co. McDonough Georgia"
  8. I have now completed my Soft Plastic delivery system in 3 styles all concepts and drawings at this point. Thanks for all the help. I'm trying to assemble a working system with parts bait makers have and stuff that can be purchased to keep the cost down. I believe I have a solid idea now. The only thing that I'm not sure of yet is, Does Plastisol, when heated to the proper temperature, pour into a aluminum mold (not injected) right down the center of the hole and fill the cavity to make a bait correctly ? This is one of my 3 designs if it works.
  9. Kye

    Swim Jig Molds

    Does anyone know if there any swim jig molds available on the market other than the Do-it bullet jig and swim jig molds? Any help is appreciated thank you
  10. Wanted to start a discussion to connect people looking for crankbait molds. The popular molds are either RTV or CNC routed from melamine or aluminum. If you are a manufacturer of such molds or have links to places that sell the molds, please respond here. If members of the forum currently make crankbait molds and are willing to sell their services, please also feel free to leave your info in a post for members to contact you.
  11. http://www.anglerscenter.com/gamefishing-accessories/terminal-tackle/owner-ultrahead-saltwater-bullet-jig-head/ I've been looking for this mold and I have no idea if they even make it or something similar.
  12. Hello everyone, I'm recently new to the forum, and want to thank everyone who shares their knowledge on these forum pages. I have been reading for a couple of months now just learning the to do's and not to do's. I finally got setup yesterday and was able to start my first melting project which prompts my first couple of questions. I am using a Lee's production 20# pot, and the lead I'm melting is a old bathtub lining. 1. When I get the lead melted and fluxed what is the best tool to remove the slag from the top of the melt? I have never melted lead before, but seems like a lot of trash on top of the melt. 2. When I removed my lead from the mold it doesn't look smooth, it almost looks grainy on the outsides of the jig head. Is my lead not hot enough or my mold not warm enough? 3. Once I remove the slag from the lead, the top of the melt seems to look almost like its cooling down on top. Is this normal?
  13. Does anybody know how I could go about molding clear crankbaits with the bill? I want it to float, any help would be appreciated.
  14. I have poured numerous molds based off of baits that are commercially available. Does anyone here sell silicone molds for baits or custom designs? if so, i'd be interested in purchasing a few, as i'm always looking for new shapes to work with. please let me know if there's a website or if you have ones to sell. I'd be looking for solid or two piece molds, either way works.
  15. I am looking to find a mold for a weedless wire tube jig that is very popular on a local river for small mouth. I have found several molds which looks correct except none of them seem to have a wire included. Here is the mold that I believe is similar http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Tube-Skirt-Jig-Molds-P213.aspx Anyone know of any do-it molds that would work? or will I have to modify one of the basic tube jig head molds? If that's the case any tips on how to make this viable? Appreciate any responses and tips.
  16. How do everyone attach the weights in the molds before casting? I have tried to attach it to the through wire but I thought that was a pain in the ass cause I wanted the weights in the very low of the belly and the lower part just behind the middle hook and needed to bend the wire in so many places. And I felt that it was hard to get the lead to stay in the exact same position every time i Casted :/. I have searched the internet for information about it many times without luck. I asked Solarfall (Solarbaits) but he said that it is a secret how he do it ! I have molded lead in bars. 8mm and 10mm thick. How do I attach it to the resin-mold easy and perfect everytime?
  17. have watched make a lure and aluminite vids and looked on their page but its just so confusing. I have been making pvc baits but want tot try resin. I was wondering what materials do I need to buy. the materials I need for making the mold as well as the resin used for making the swimbait. thanks guys.
  18. Hi all, In the past I tried some of this stuff (feather lite) yet the results were pretty good I hade some issues with the bubbles on the surface, I was expecting a clear result but it seems there is a reaction between the components because the mixture expands a little bit (by far less than foam) which I think involves some heat resulting in air traped bubbles (don't know if this happens inside the body as well) So for obtaining a shiny surface I am considering the following things: - the room temperature, I don't remember if it was the one indicated in the tehnical buletin - pressure casting - can someone help me on this...how it is done? - vibrating table - I think maybe putting the mold on such a table may cause the bubbles to rise Any other ideas might help, please feel free to share them P.S. vodkaman hope you are still around
  19. Does anyone know of a knock off mold of a sweet beaver? I would love to gave something closest to the original. Any suggestions in ideas where I can find one? Thanks in advance Bobby
  20. Looking to do a production run on spinnerbaits.... I am ready to go...got my design, my prototype..... how do I get to a finished product from here? I guess first step is a mold....how big, hand poured,injected? HELP! thanks!!! Scott
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