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Found 24 results

  1. Chuck Young

    Citrus Shad

    Silver scales over a flo white base.
  2. Akteacher

    Basic-shad.jpeg

    Some basic shad in multiple bait styles. I still need practice on the lateral lines.
  3. Grisley

    Wine Shad Sammy

  4. hated to see these go. Thanks for looking y'all!
  5. mdojet

    Sexxy shad

    Sexy Shad on a Megabass S-Crank

    © Lure Me In Custom Painted Crankbaits www.luremeincrankbaits.com

  6. barrybait

    20160625 203254[1]

    Another shad same as my previous post but with my now famous home made coffin bill. (thanks Mark Poulson) I enhanced my shad pattern and got the lower half shimmering with some Createx Wicked Aluminum, then to the bone colored belly. Also added pearl orange throat and tip of tail. Oh yeah, my dobbed eyes are getting better. I'm using the back end of a drill bit like before but now I am using the cheap acrylic paint, not air brush paint and I am able to get better painted eyes now.
  7. barrybait

    20160625 203605[1]

    Carved this bait from basswood. Modeled similar to Lucky Craft BDS3. Twisted wire hook hangar thru belly weight. Long twisted wire hangars for line tie and rear hangar. Not thru wired. Each hangar secured with D2T. I'm not worried about thru wiring with bass wood but I do my hangar drill holes all the way thru, fill the entire hole up with D2T then D2T my twisted wire and insert. Home made circuit board lip from LPO circuit board sheet. I mark them out with a square, scribe, cut with band saw, then finish sand to the lines with a 1" belt sander. These are providing good action Createx paint same pattern as previous post. D2T'd. Action, compared to BDS3, it is a little wider wobble, a little slower and heavier. Haven't fished it yet.
  8. barrybait

    20160625 203740[1]

    Made this flatside balsa crankbait and used this pre made circuit board type lip from LPO. I have been making my own circuit board lips from the sheet purchased from LPO and they both work great. I used two 1/4" pieces of balsa to make the bait, epoxying them together after channeling them out for my weight and thru wire rig. For a weight I used a mojo weight which I cut in half length wise and had to drill out the center hole a little. Then I used the 19 gage ss wire, cut a long piece, put a twisted eye near the middle then ran both legs up thru my mojo weight, bending one forward tor another twisted line tie eye and the other aft to the rear hook hangar. Drilled 1/4" hole for the weight, seperated the halves and traced out the wires and hangars so I could channel out the balsa to accomodate the harness. Finished with Createx paints. I primer white then paint the bottom half gray and the upper half golden yellow. Scale mesh then paint bone on bottom, smoke the back with greatly reduced pearl black, then add some purple on the shoulder and remove the mesh. May have to enhance the golden yellow some after that but it is making a good shad pattern. Topped with D2T. Sized this similar to the coffin bill we used to get from Bustin Bass Baits or Evergreen on ebay but doesn't seem like we will be able to get them anymore. This works pretty well, even better than the coffin I think but it doesn't go quite as deep. About 5 feet.
  9. Chuck Young

    American shad

    Free hand spots, yellow, red, violet and blue highlights, and extra shine on this one.
  10. I want to get started in painting my own lures. I can't wait to get started and I know there is so much information I need to know first. I am hoping there is a professional out there that remembers what it was like when they first started out. I am asking for any advice, and any advice what so ever is going to be welcomed and greatly appreciated. Items I have: Air Brush: Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and a cheap airbrush set from harbor fright. The Harbor fright set came with an air compressor and everything i need (hopefully). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Q) Does anyone recommend a different air compressor? If so, what kind and why (other than the fact that it's harbor fright and will probably take a poop the day after the warranty) Paint: I got a bunch of the Createx colors and a lot of the Wicked colors. Pearls, transparent, opaque in some, and some detail paints. Any suggestions in this area is greatly appreciated! Q) Where is the cheapest place to get paint, especially the ones I will use the most like white for base paint and black cover. What brand, place, price, and website or store name would be amazing. Lures: The lures that I do have are not blanks. They are lures that I had purchased from Cabelas and most of them are still in the boxes. I want to paint mostly Rapala stuff because that's what I have the most of. I want to paint Rippin' Raps, Husky Jerks, Jigging Shad Raps, Shad Raps, and maybe some DT stuff later. I also want to paint Storm baits like the Smash Shads and the thundersticks (deep and original). I really want to start painting Smithwick Rouges as well. but don't have any of those. Q) For stock (original ligit lures) lures that are painted, what is your step by step to painting them? Do you sand them then apply base coat, or do you just apply base right over the painted lure? Q) What tape do you use to tape off your bills and why? Price and place/website, thank you. Q) What kind of clear coat do you use? Do you just apoxy it with a brush? How do you finish your lures? Q) Do you make your own Stencils? If not, where do you get them? If so, How? This is the big Q) Where do I go to get GOOD blanks? I of course want the real deal but will settle for the next best thing as long as they swim and look identical to the lures mentioned above. Please and thank you.
  11. Hi all, I've been reading a ton on this forum and found so much helpful information, thank you all. I've made a few cranks based on others designs (Paul Adams Phox Minnow and one other), and they turned out great. I've designed my first simple shad style bait and it swims with a very "tight" action. It's made from basswood and weighted with lead split shot sinkers (size 7 in front of hook hanger and 3/0 behind). I want to give my next iteration more "roll" and a "wider" swimming action. I've attached a picture and the current design drawing. Can anyone give me their intuition on how to do this? I think that a wider lip should help give it a wider swim, also I could maybe make the body wider as well. I'm only guessing though as I have very little experience. thanks, Harrison
  12. O'l Robzilla

    Phantom Shads

    © RLM

  13. O'l Robzilla

    Green bait fish.

    Transparent bait. Green sides with gold stripe.

    © RLM

  14. O'l Robzilla

    Neon Shad.

    © RLM

  15. lulu-yodlures

    Fight shad

    The Fight Shad is a 17 cm soft bait for around 30 gr completely homemade by YOD LURES and made in France We started with a wooden master, and then we produce silicone molds and then the liquid plastic with different colors and attractants This lure is designed for pikes and other predators hunters Check the video :

    © YOD LURES

  16. Caszuk Baits

    golden shiner

  17. I was looking for a bobby garland baby shad mold or something very similar. I was wondering were you could get one or if a company would make one? I make my own molds but I'm thinking I want to start injecting. I know how much pouring these things are so it's mainly just a hobby so you don't have to tell me it's expensive. I know!
  18. Tried to do my best at a sexy shad in a colour a friend wanted.

    © RLM

  19. O'l Robzilla

    Sexy Shad Repaints.

    Repaints for a buddy.

    © RLM

  20. mdojet

    Pumpkin Back Red Eye Shad

    Pumpkin Back Red Eye Shad in a lipliss lure body. Red gill outline for added attraction..

    © Lure Me In Custom Painted Crankbaits

  21. TruPreyCustomBaits.com truprey@gmail.com
  22. This is my twist on a shad, not sure if the color will work but it looks nice.
  23. djhaddix

    Bandit - Gizzard Shad

    This was about the third lure I ever painted. The picture is pre-devcon. Bandit 200 repaint. Thanks to all of the folks on here for helping me make the learning curve a little sharper
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