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Showing results for tags 'swimbait'.
Found 73 results
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Hey guys i am new on here and new to lure building and painting. I painted my first bait yesterday and it was a jointed swim bait. i made a lure turner but i dont think it will work for this bait. I will include a picture of the lure. Does anyone know how i should topcoat this lure?
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Alright guys, I Need all of your help! Does anyone know how to Custom paint a Deps Slide Swimmer 250? I have never tried to paint one and l Really want to learn. Any tips would be very helpful! Thanks Guys, Brad
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I recently have been trying my hand at shooting swimbaits. So far, its going okay. I noticed my mold allows for eyes to be placed on the soft plastic after it has dried and this is not something I've ever messed with as a fisherman in general. What are some of your thoughts on using lure eyes for swimbaits/flukes/creatures? Is there a 'best practice'? Does it really help? How durable will they be? Do you prefer adhesive or glue? Do you clear coat your bait once you've finished? Any other thoughts in general in this arena? Regards, Bronzeback Cowboy
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6.25” paddle tail -
Just thought I would post a video about how I do my swimbait. I did leave some of the more boring details out but if you contact me I will be happy to help .
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Hey everyone, I recently bought a top injection mold from Basstackle and have been shooting with Bait Junkies, now Bait Plastics' hard formula. I cannot for the life of me get a bait to shoot without there being air bubbles at the top/head of the bait. It's infuriating! I haven't violently stirred the plastisol or sucked up any air while pulling plastisol into the injector, but it happens nearly every time I inject. The reason I know I'm not doing this is because I have another, side inject mold from a different company that shoot perfectly every time. I've tried purging the injector prior to shooting and that didn't work. Anyone have another idea on how to fix this issue? Is it the mold sprue that is the problem. I can't help but notice that the side injection mold that shoots perfectly has a wide sprue opening where it meets the body of the lure, whereas the Basstackle top inject mold has a very narrow sprue-body connection. Could air be getting trapped at that choke point and not be allowed to escape? Any advice you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and help.
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Just shot a little batch of these guys. Royal Blue and Yellow Gold glitter. Green pumpkin base. -
Hey everyone, I recently got a new mold where the sprue hole is pretty narrow...too narrow for my current injector that I purchased from Do-It to fit in. As I don't want to by a new injector for this new mold, I was wondering if anyone has found some sort of sprue adapter piece that would allow me to use my current injector, but funnel the plastisol into the narrower sprue hole? Any information you have regarding this would be greatly appreciated.
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8.75" multi-joint Keeper Trout swimbait with assist hook hanger in the tail and an additional line tie on the chin. 100% hand carved out of a single block of wood using only a utility knife, a handsaw, and sandpaper. Base colors are spray painted with the detailing and highlights hand-applied using acrylic. This bait took over a year to finish, but it swims like a champ and has a very special place in my tackle box.- 4 comments
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- rainbow trout
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Any one here have info on unpainted swimbait blanks? 1 or 2 joints.
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Another promo for the latest Victus Swimbait That I’ve just recently added to the product line! Feedback welcome as always! 6”. 2 color. Hand pour.-
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Just a promo image I did of the latest swimbait I’ve added to my product line. Would love to hear what you all think! Hand pour. 2 color, 6”. -
Made a swim bait master that I really like, but wanted to see if you guys would think it will work. I want to rig it weedless on a owner beast 10/0. Do you think this would work? What brand of plastisol do you guys recommend for big swimbaits like these?
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Hey folks, I have been scouring the internet trying to find a way to decently dye the tails of my paddle tails. My main concern is not being able to effectively dye dark colored lures and make them have a nice chartreuse paddle tail. I have tried Spike It which works very nicely for light colored lures. I have also tried K. Wigglers, which does indeed dye dark lures chartreuse, as they use some sort of silicone rubber, but I get terrible bubbles trapped in the dye, and the lure just looks bad. Had anyone had success with other ways of dyeing their tails? Spike It has that spray paint stuff, but they don't make it in a bright chartreuse color. Would airbrushing be the way to go? Thanks in advance for your help. -Taylor
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Would it be possible to make a mold of a Huddleston and pour new tails for them. the baits work great but pike bite the tails off all the time getting sick or replacing them all the time at 25 dollars a piece.
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G'day Guys, I just finally finished up my swimbait project. I filmed every step as per usual so I figured this would be the best place to share it. A fair bit of time went into it but I'm very happy with the result. Hope you guys enjoy!
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I took off after work yesterday with a couple boxes of baits made from the original QD275 prototype mold. My first cast was up in the brush and never hit the water, but my first cast that hit the water got bit and boated a keeper. A few minutes later I stuck this 5+ pounder. The bait works. Got a dozen on it give or take. First time on the water and the bait worked great. P.S. I was using a ML XF spinning rod with 20lb braid. She put a hurt on that rod, but the line handled her just fine. Was a lot of fun on an ML rod. -
I am designer noob who has a bug ready for market. It needs a 3.5" swim bait like a Berkley Grass Pig Jr. (boot tail, sock tail, paddle tail, paddle foot etc.) preferably without the hook slot. I would prefer to stay USA. I am still hunting around for a generic OEM as none of the name brands have the interest or the capacity to handle my needs.
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Hey everybody, this is my first post here on TU, and I hope i'm not regurgitating past topics here but... I just cast my first resin glide bait, a 8.5" rainbow trout. My first casting was as a single-piece, but I decided to lay the molds out flat and try it in two pieces. The reason for this was to try and cut weight by hollowing out the front and rear sections when it had cured (which I did), then epoxy everything together. The result is still 7.5 ounces, as pictured. So, my question is: Is it possible to cut this weight of something like this down to, say, 4.5 or 5 ounces? Is there a technique/resin type that can help cut the weight down? I'm using a two-piece silicone mold based upon a hand carved wood trout design I made. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
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Hi Guys, Long time lurker here.. I have been gathering information from all over the web and TU directly for months and decided that today was going to be the day I take the plunge. I have to say that I am pretty proud of myself all in all minus the fact that I caught myself a couple times (see thumb below) + need to get my head and tail less thick (hopefully that makes sense). I definitely gained a whole new respect for the lure makers of the fishing world. I would like to hear some feedback - What do you guys think? 1-10 body and shaping wise.. do I need to go back to the drawing board or am I on the right track?
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Ghost green- 5 in . fat body swimbait -
hey folks, recently I've been working on a trout swimbait and one of the things I've decided to do with it is to add frog hooks concealed as fins on it's underside. originally i was going to mold the fins out of plastic but that raised some issues with its durability. so i decided to tie the fins. i was hoping someone could help give me some ideas with making the fins. I'm thinking either dyed turkey feather sandwiching the barbs of the frog hook or buck tail. I think I would have problems shaping the bucktail and the turkey feather might affect the swimbaits action. any help is appreciated.
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Hey folks, just wrapped up my near final trout swimbait painting pattern with a few pointers from a local taxidermist. I excluded a few of the steps that I was given for the sake of simplicity (one of the ones I'm going to use is a layer of gold above the lateral line, hence the "near final") and it came out pretty dandy. I painted it on a TP roll so that I wouldn't have to waste another blank. https://mobile.twitter.com/bassosaurus_rex/media/grid?idx=0
