BJ Smith

? for all you Iwata gurus.....

27 posts in this topic

What model Iwata would you recommend? I am looking at a double action gravity feed. Don't worry about the price (That is my worry :( )

Thanks in advance,,,,,,

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BJ, there have been many recent threads discussing airbrushes, Iwatas particularly, and which model is best for crankbaits. Do a search on Iwata and you'll find lots of information. There is no "best" - it depends on whether you have other airbrushes, what paint you use, the level of detail you want, etc. I think you're on the right track with an internal mix gravity feed Iwata.

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I am still new at painting, but the hp-c high line helped me learn how to control the air flow. It is the same as the hp-c+ just one extra control. I don't regret getting this air brush! It was worth ever penny.

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Dean is from KY..Do you guys really think he paints with a airbrush..!!! They dont even have running water.. HOW IS HE GOING TO CLEAN OUT HIS GUN!!!!

I buy all my guns from Dixie Art.. They are the cheapest!!! IWATA is the ticket.. you cant go wrong with any of them.. I own 6 I like them that much.

The Rookie

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Rookie.

We're in the twenty-first century here too...but it helps havin a good woman who'll wash about two dozen airbrushes along with the regular load of unmentionables down there at the big flat rock on the creek. She does a good job too now that I finally broke her from beatin the Iwaters with a rock (bends the delicate needle thingies, had a heckuva time tuning up the brush after the first time). Turns out leaches love Createx paint, so all is well again in Possumville.

BJ, Looks like Iwata has no critics here. I bought my Eclipse recently for the same reason; and that the nozzle at 3.5mm is their largest, and the little paint cup seemed plenty big enough for my needs, which it is.

Dean

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Rookie, we invented the airbrush here in Kentucky. We used a horseweed and a mouth full of 'backer. Blow it on your favorite lures and waa-laaa you have just changed the color.

That is how Iwata got its name..I wata nother chew.:yay:

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:pissed: Yeah Rook, that's how we got those great colors like Skoal Shoal Minnow, Redman Shad, and Beechnut Baby Bronzeback. Learn the history of the custom paintin business before you go spoutin off!

Fishing Machine Dean

:censored:

Iwata all the way!

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In Ohio we have a lot of local moonshine stills. Those Iwata's can be easily cleaned by dunkin' em in the ferment for a minute or two. We then set them out to dry on the old couch we keep on the front porch.

I should post this one on the "Quick tips" thread.

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:pissed: Yeah Rook, that's how we got those great colors like Skoal Shoal Minnow, Redman Shad, and Beechnut Baby Bronzeback. Learn the history of the custom paintin business before you go spoutin off!

Fishing Machine Dean

:censored:

Iwata all the way!

NOW THAT IS FUNNY :lol:

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I buy all my guns from Dixie Art.. They are the cheapest!!! IWATA is the ticket.. you cant go wrong with any of them.. I own 6 I like them that much.

The Rookie

Rookie.... I am only going to buy one for now (I have 4 others).... Which one of your six would you recommend? I mean.... if you had to throw away 5 and keep one..... which would it be?

Thanks

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BJ.. I think I would throw away the Iwata I bought from Dean last week.. He said it was "TIP TOP TOMMY".. I never knew he was english... but the man gets around.. anyway... when It arrived... the needle was bent to he_l and it looks like someone had been throwing rocks up against it... Plus their is backer juice all over it.... I think he was spittin in the gravity feed and paintin his baits!!! Old ways die hard!!!

Enjoyed your website and the chat BJ!!!! Dean is the man on this stuff.. Im not a expert at any of it.. Dean is my YODA and Im trying to find the FORCE!!! I do love my iwata's but I think I will have to try this spittin backer thing now.....

The Rookie

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I've just started using the Iwata; Everything I've posted in the Gallery, I did with a Badger 200, which is an internal mix single action. I've been amazed at how easy the transition has been really, which speaks highly of the Iwata, and all the little bits of info I've found here in Hard Baits over the years!

Rook, I told you it was almost perfect! And as far as the 'backer juice, I just wanted to see how the chrome would shine through transparent Copenhagen. Pigment is as pigment does, you know...you won't believe how we get that pretty flourescent yellow you like so much, but I'll give you a hint--lots of vitamins!

:teef:

Dean

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:D Dean... you are too much..... I don't want to know how you get that puuurdy redish-brown on the Spring Craws:eek: .....

Dean... you are a great man... I don't care what Rook says about you :wink:

Rook.. I appreciated the phone call and the great conversation. Thank you very much for your time and sharing of your expertise. :worship: It was great. :)

Thanks to everyone who posted... I am now motivated and on the hunt for the right Iwata........ It will come soon.... :)

BJ

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I'm new to airbrushing, and I need some advice. Up to now, I've been using cheap spray paint from the lumber yard, and it works okay, but detail is a problem.

So I bought an Iwata HP-C+. I chose that model because it had Teflon seals, and can spray oil based paints, and lacquers.

I was wondering if I can mix types of paints. Can I prime with an oil based paint, and then do colors with Createx, or some other acrylic paint? Will the water based paint adhere to the oil based primer? If not, can I use a lesser grade of acrylic paint as a primer, and then airbrush my colors and details over that? Lastly, what type of clear finish should I use? I make mostly larger swimbaits, with walk the dog actions, so the hooks are constantly swinging against the sides of the wood. Currently, I have been using vertical grain douglas fir, kiln dried, that I had left over from some jobs I've done over the years. The wood is strong, and, if you pick the lighter pieces, plenty buoyant for the baits I make.

I know, that's a lot of questions. If there is another thread, or another site, I should visit instead of bugging you guys, please feel free to steer me there.

Thanks in advance,

Mark Poulson

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I think yes, you can prime with oil and shoot acrylic over it. You need a non-water based primer over raw wood before you shoot water based acrylic. If the primer is thoroughly dry there should be no problem with adhesion. I prefer epoxy, polyurethane or propionate/acetone as a raw wood primer because I've often ended up with "smelly" baits using oil primers. Clearcoats: a majority of guys on TU use epoxy, often Devcon Two Ton (NOT the 5 min Devcon). More and more guys are trying (and like) Dick Nite Fishermun's Lurecoat, a water cured polyurethane. Devcon is nice since it's tough, thick and levels out well to hide any small sanding or finish imperfections. The Dick Nite is harder, thinner and glossier but doesn't level over imperfections as well. Player's choice.

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Thanks Bob. I've always used oil based primers in construction, but I wasn't sure about lures.

I'm curious about the smell issue. If the clear coat is cured, will it still have a smell? I have quite a few swimbaits I've already done with oil based clear coats, and I wonder if I need to recoat them with epoxy.

Which epoxy do you recommmend? I've found that 5 minute epoxy yellows. Would a plastic decopage clear coat work?

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Bob,

I just reread your answer and see that you addressed the 5 min epoxy issue. Sorry for the first answer.

I'll try the two ton epoxy.

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Mark, I tried undercoating wood baits with aerosol auto primer or Kilz. Later - months later - years later - when I lifted the top of a bait storage box, I got a distinct and not very pleasant solvent smell wafting out. I figure it's hard enough to catch'em with nice smelling baits, much less stinky ones. Now I use epoxy followed by a color basecoat of white acrylic latex.

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Bob,

Your mention of a water cured polyurethane clicked. I have some Traffic, a tough, clear, high gloss water cured polyurethane that we use for hardwood floor finishing. I'm going to give that a try. Thanks for the idea.

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Bob,

I used Createx colors to detail a wood bait I made, which was sealed with polyurethane, and primed white with rattle can oil based paint.

The Createx dried to a tacky finish.

I put it in the oven at low for ten minutes to see if that would make the Createx "cure", but all it did was blister the finish. After it cooled, the blisters shrank, but they're still there. Looks like I'll have to strip it down and start over.

What did I do wrong?

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