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? for all you Iwata gurus.....
26 replies to this topic
Posted 04 October 2007 - 10:47 PM
Thanks Bob. I've always used oil based primers in construction, but I wasn't sure about lures.
I'm curious about the smell issue. If the clear coat is cured, will it still have a smell? I have quite a few swimbaits I've already done with oil based clear coats, and I wonder if I need to recoat them with epoxy.
Which epoxy do you recommmend? I've found that 5 minute epoxy yellows. Would a plastic decopage clear coat work?
Posted 04 October 2007 - 10:49 PM
I just reread your answer and see that you addressed the 5 min epoxy issue. Sorry for the first answer.
I'll try the two ton epoxy.
Posted 05 October 2007 - 04:02 PM
Mark, I tried undercoating wood baits with aerosol auto primer or Kilz. Later - months later - years later - when I lifted the top of a bait storage box, I got a distinct and not very pleasant solvent smell wafting out. I figure it's hard enough to catch'em with nice smelling baits, much less stinky ones. Now I use epoxy followed by a color basecoat of white acrylic latex.
Posted 05 October 2007 - 10:54 PM
Your mention of a water cured polyurethane clicked. I have some Traffic, a tough, clear, high gloss water cured polyurethane that we use for hardwood floor finishing. I'm going to give that a try. Thanks for the idea.
Posted 15 October 2007 - 03:26 PM
I used Createx colors to detail a wood bait I made, which was sealed with polyurethane, and primed white with rattle can oil based paint.
The Createx dried to a tacky finish.
I put it in the oven at low for ten minutes to see if that would make the Createx "cure", but all it did was blister the finish. After it cooled, the blisters shrank, but they're still there. Looks like I'll have to strip it down and start over.
What did I do wrong?
Posted 15 October 2007 - 05:26 PM
I've also had Createx "dry" to a slightly tacky finish and assume it must be the flow agents they put in for airbrush use. Letting it air dry for a couple of days doesn't seem to matter much, so I decided to go ahead with the clearcoat after flash drying Createx with a hair dryer. No problem with that so far, with either epoxy or polyurethane clearcoats. I think your problem was baking it in the oven which caused either the oil based undercoat or the Createx flow agent to bubble. Bottom line, if the Createx is dried sufficiently to remove all the water, go ahead with the clearcoat. It will probably be fine. I've never had much luck oven baking anything. Btw, you can usually remove recently dried acrylic latex by rubbing it with your fingers under a stream of cold water, without harming what's underneath.