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Bending 0.062" Wire Loops
13 replies to this topic
Posted 17 October 2007 - 07:08 PM
I did a search but found limited info on bending loops in 0.062" wire. The forming tools do not work beyond 0.051". Did find a thread that referenced using round nose pliers and vice grips. Would be interested in more info on "how to"
Posted 17 October 2007 - 08:05 PM
Pete, It depends on how complicated you are going to get, and how many you are going to make. The quickest way is to try the round nose pliers. I don't know if they will work on that gage wire. I assume you are talking about stainless steel wire? Next best bet would be using nails in a piece of wood, but after awhile, I would assume the nails would bend and or loosen. The final solution is what we do at work. Keep in mind that this will outlast you and me both if done right. Get yourself some 1/4" thick alum. plate. Whatever size you need to lay out the whole wire bending pattern. Next get yourself some hardened dowels (find the diameter you need). Drill holes in the alum. plate slightly smaller then the dowels. Locate the holes where you need them. Next take the dowel pins and press them in the alum. plate. If done correctly, they will never move, or pull out. PM me if you need more help
Posted 17 October 2007 - 08:34 PM
Thanks Cadman. You are correct that I am looking at stainless wire. For starters, I am looking towards making some bucktails and topwater baits this winter so this is just a straight wire with loops on either end. I've got some 0.040" wire and can do this relatively easily but haven't worked with 0.062" yet.
Not looking to mass produce anything, just want to tinker by hand.
Posted 18 October 2007 - 06:28 AM
That is awesome Norway Pike. Makes for a very clean looking loop.
Posted 19 October 2007 - 10:42 PM
Here is the way I do a twisted loop with heavy wire. I have pictures, but they are large. If the explanation doesn't work for you and you want pics let me know and I can forward via email.
Ok, here is how I do the tail loop on my plugs. What is pictured here is intended to be a snug tight fit to the plug. The wire should be tight when completed. If you do a spinner blade, propeller, or spinning wood body, you will have to leave some extra space, but the principal is still the same, you just have to leave room for the spinning pieces to spin. This method can also be used to the head loops on the bucktails. Some tackle companies make a wire bending tool to do the head loops, but the ones I have seen are good up to .035 or .041 wire. I think you use .051, and I typically use .062, so those tools wonít do any good for us.
The tools needed are standard needlenose pliers, side cutters, and round nose pliers. The round nose can be hard to come by. I got these at Sears on sale for $7-9. A vise is helpful, thought not necessary to hold the plug.
1) the tools (pic 2972)
2) The plug is wired, tail weight and tail grommet are installed. Use the needlenose pliers to bend the wire about 45 degrees from vertical. This gives you room to make a nice round loop. (pic 2973)
3) Hold the round nose pliers in your left hand (I am right handed so it is easier for me to do it this way, if you are a lefty just do it all the opposite way) with one jaw over the other (pic 2974)
4) Grab the end of the wire with the needle nose pliers in your right hand, and wrap the wire over the top jaw of the round nose pliers, then bring it back under the bottom jaw of the round nose pliers and pull toward your body (pic 2975), this step I important to make sure that you get that round loop in the wire---you can pull upwards on the end of the wire to tighten the loop around the jaws of the round nose pliers.
5) Remove the round nose pliers from the wire loop and insert the lower jaw of the round nose pliers into the loop, grab the end of the wire with the needle pliers again and begin wrapping the wire around itself under the loop. I wrap underneath my left arm so I need to remove the needle pliers from the end of the wire and grab the end again at each wrap. Be sure to keep each wrap tight to one immediately above it. Keep wrapping until you snug the last wrap to the back end of the plug (pic 2976).
6) Remove both pair of pliers and snip the end of the wire off with the side cutters (pic 2977ónot snipped but done)
Posted 21 October 2007 - 08:51 AM
Good description. If I could get the photos, that would be great too. I pm'd my email address to you.
Posted 22 October 2007 - 11:41 AM
Just out of curiosity, why do you need to use 1/16" wire.
I've been using .045" and I have to say, if any fish causes that to fail, I don't want to get close to that fish! :-)
Posted 22 October 2007 - 07:49 PM
some guys need durability fishing toothy critters called mooskies. they have a way to bend and bust equipment.
Posted 26 October 2007 - 03:38 PM
Woodieb8 hit the nail on the head. 0.062" is less likely to bend.
Posted 26 October 2007 - 03:58 PM
OK! I guess the reason .045 works so well for me is that I cast the harness into Foam or UR. There's not much leverage that way.
(I fish mostly SW and those critters pull pretty hard)
Posted 26 October 2007 - 04:15 PM
muskys have a tendency to torque and roll in the net. thats when equipment gets destroyed. most fish can be handled. but when theres 3 trebles and a mouthfull of teeth it can get hairy.