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earthworm77

Here's a challenge/idea for all the guys looking for paints for tube minnows

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OK, I read the other thread in which one guy posted some very nice photos but didn't give up any info on the paints/process. While I really enjoy sharing info, I do believe that there are some things that need to be kept secret and although I, myself would love to know what type of paint is used, I can understand why the poster neglected to let us in on it. We are talented and we are his competition. There are certain color formulas I will not give up to anyone, although I don't think I'd hang a carrot in front of anyone's nose and post photos of them here. No need to stir anyone up.

Now, I have a little challenge for the guys who want to paint these new tube minnows......here is my idea......

do your regular dip then paint on a scale pattern using whatever paint you choose. My logic is that you are going to dip on top of that paint anyway so you shouldn't be too concerned with the paint cracking or chipping. Even though the bait is flexible, the paint would have nowhere to go if it chipped. It is sealed up under the covering dip. Now the only thing you need to worry about is if the paint will have a reaction with the plastic and the oils.

This solution might just be a little easier than we think. I have painted plenty on soft plastics and I've always tried to use the "right" paint. Taking into consideration that all of my past work centered around paint on the outside of a bait with no protection or covering, I looked for a paint that had adhesive qualities to keep it on the bait. That crap they sell at lurecraft was decent for that but might not be necessary for this proceedure.

I will get around to testing my theory. If anyone does try it, please let us know. I'm all for helping out if I can.

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I thought about using regular artist oil paints.I belive if you removed most of the plastic film from the tube with rubbing alcohol,it might just do the trick,Using a small brush you cold get some detail,not like the pvc cement,and dye.You would have to do a clear second dip.One of the things I will have to try.Just too busy now.

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RC cars was one of my past hobbies. We used Pactra Polycarb Paint (PAC) to paint the lexan shells. The paint was great and did not chip, it was made to be plyable. Along with the benefit of being plyable it comes in spray can and in bottles for air brushes with alot of color choices. Has anyone tried this?

pacrc262.jpg

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I tried model paint and the paint will not stick to the plastic well. When you dip, it starts to come off and smears bad...

I don't think I am in competition, other than friendly, with anyone that makes these baits or other handpours. The truth is, the more anglers that try handpours, the more that will buy from various handcrafters.

If I find out where to get the pigments from, TU members will know.

I am going to try the Krylon (paint for plastics) tonight as a test but I stand by just using plastic to create the effects paint can.

Jim

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I am just starting out in the pouring of my own .. but have been in printing for 25 years and we use water base and solvent inks that might do the trick and if not i can get my ink company to do some testing for me. Also i am going to be trying to do some work with holographic foils since we use them here as well...

tight lines

Mo

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It bleeds bad after a few days Joe. To bad as it would be perfect!!

I have some high lighters that work OK. They are not the normal ones but liquid high lighters. Made by Dixon I believe. The chartreuse works pretty decent but you have to let it dry for about 2 days...

Also have found some paint by Plaid company that works just like the LC paint but is water clean up and dries water resistant. Paint For Plastics.... They have it at most Michael's, Hobby Lobby and some Wally Worlds. I have not tested it well but the black I used for some baby bass was nice and very easy to work with...

The big boys obviously use some type of vinyl paint and cut it with ketones. Out of my league not doubt!!!

Jim

PS Permanent markers bleed also....

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I am just starting out in the pouring of my own .. but have been in printing for 25 years and we use water base and solvent inks that might do the trick and if not i can get my ink company to do some testing for me. Also i am going to be trying to do some work with holographic foils since we use them here as well...

tight lines

Mo

That sounds like the ticket.... I'll get you today MO...We ended up at the hospital with my son's asthma last night. All is good though....

Jim

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Just wondering we use a uv cureable ink that is very thin could be sprayed thru a gun but needs either sunlight or a uv light source to cure. but will dry almost instantly with the right light source. but not sure if it would crack or peel...looks like something to test i know it makes a awesome clear coat using the clear..

Mo

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This is great dialogue. Maybe once and for all one of us will figure it out and then we will all know. It seems like this is the most closely guarded secret in the tackle making world.

Id the Spike it Dip n Glow, the same as their bait paint? I've used the dip which is a dye and it does bleed. Senko Sam told me to try the paint. I have some ordered and I'll let you guys konw how it performed. This thread really took off. I don't think anything water based will work too well unless it has the ability to dry really fast.

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This is great dialogue. Maybe once and for all one of us will figure it out and then we will all know. It seems like this is the most closely guarded secret in the tackle making world.

Id the Spike it Dip n Glow, the same as their bait paint? I've used the dip which is a dye and it does bleed. Senko Sam told me to try the paint. I have some ordered and I'll let you guys konw how it performed. This thread really took off. I don't think anything water based will work too well unless it has the ability to dry really fast.

Vinyl paint is pretty much what is used for soft plastics

Delw

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Here's a twist for you. I haven't tried this because I gave away my airbrush some years ago.

I was just wondering what if you took highlite; let's say green with a little black lumina; and airbrush the scale pattern on the tube, then do the final clear dip.

Maybe the highlite will run and maybe it won't. I'd try it if I could.

www.novalures.com

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I would think vinyl paint would be the ticket here, a light spray with your pattern, I haven't dipped tubes, but what if you set the baits up to dry for some time ater painting, then after the paint dries re-dip for your clear finish coat?

Obviously production time would be slow unless you dip a ton and have a day process for each part, one day dip and paint, next day clear coat. :?

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Well you guys are going strong on the path to figuring out the methods/types of paint to use. But, I am no painter, just don't have the patience for it, so here is a sample of what you can do with glitter. I applied the glitter with a q-tip (or my finger) or even sprinkled it on. I did use allot of glitter in order to see if it would come off when I dipped it but it didn't. I do think this is an easier route to take for all us non-paintaholics.:teef:

Ps. sorry the photo is bad-had to use the cameraphone.

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2285_thumb.attach

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Looks nice but I was sitting in my huge camping trailor, bait pouring station (12 ft long including the hitch, hahaha) and saw some pieces of popsicle sticks laying around and got to thinking. Has anyone tried or thought of using wood to make their molds? I tried the knife trick but for me the hollow part was a bit too thin so I had an old yard stick that I carved down for the body and used a popsicle stick to come up with the tail paddle. Painted it all with Famowood (I think that is the correct name) tonight and will probably apply and additional coat tommorrow to see how it comes out before trying to dip my first test. Will you'all know what the outcome is.

Lou

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Hey Jim,

No need to try the Krylon Fusion spray paint for plastics. I tried that one. My experience with it was that it didnt dry on the plastisol.

Kent

Saved me $6!!!! Wally world is sad though!!!

This is a good thread. I like the glitter in the baits as they look good!!!

Jim

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Looks nice but I was sitting in my huge camping trailor, bait pouring station (12 ft long including the hitch, hahaha) and saw some pieces of popsicle sticks laying around and got to thinking. Has anyone tried or thought of using wood to make their molds? I tried the knife trick but for me the hollow part was a bit too thin so I had an old yard stick that I carved down for the body and used a popsicle stick to come up with the tail paddle. Painted it all with Famowood (I think that is the correct name) tonight and will probably apply and additional coat tommorrow to see how it comes out before trying to dip my first test. Will you'all know what the outcome is.

Lou

wood will work, however the biggest problem with wood is that its very porous and the plastic will stick to it and not slide off.

I know guys that have painted devcon on wood and it wont bubble , the baits slid off easy also. but they only last a little while before the devcon starts to blister due to the moisture in the wood contracting and expanding

Delw

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This may sound stupid, but what about shooting the colors that are used to color soft plastics. I had a pearl swimbait that was up against a red shad worm and the red bled into the pearl. Looks great. If this stuff can be thinned it can be shot. You just need to know what the carrier for the pigment is.

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Delw,

Thanks for all the info you have provided since I've been a member. You seem to always be there to help and offer suggestions to others and that's greatly appreciated.

Famowood (again I'm not sure if that is the correct name of it since I'm at work and can't check the box) is what is used for the tops of bars and provides a finish to the wood that is almost glass like. What the heck, I'll try it and if it doesn't work all I've lost is a yardstick and popsicle stick. Will let you know what the results are.

Lou

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