Newby needing serious help.

[rlcam]

I am new(very new) to making lures and have several questions,hope this doesn't get too long.Crankbaits-1)Do most of you use through wire or twist stainless for hook hangers and line ties,do you find the stainless holds good with epoxy(what brand and type)also what size wire and where is the best place to get it.2) do you place the bellyweight so the front hook is anchored in it? 3)How do you put a rattle in a cedar bait,I like the old one knocker(where can I find them) 4)Is it possible for me to make my own(not for sale)crankbaits with out using some of the bill aligning tools and such that you guys use?After reading Vodkaman's post on death roll I almost feel too dumb to even attempt this.Sorry so long.Although I know all of this has been covered maybe a post of Beginning to end with all the details wouldn't be too much to ask.

[rlcam]

On the post above I am talking about some cedar baits I have carved and have stalled on.I also have some out of cypress anyone use it ? Mine are flat type plugs like a Stanford or Poes.I have hand carved all these and sanded no calipers or gages or anything,just hold it up look at it and sand.I imagine most of you are heehawing at me right now but I have to start somewhere,if I knew how to post pics I would

[BobP]

ricam, click on FORUMS at the top of this page, then scroll down to MEMBER SUBMITTED TUTORIALS and click on it. If none show, scroll down the page and change the search period to BEGINNING. You'll find pertinent info. If you need more on a specific subject, come back to the Hardbait forum and do a seach on it. There's lots of info in TU, you just have to dig a little for it. Thru wire is mostly used on balsa baits because that wood is so delicate. Ballast can be anywhere you want it. As a basic principle, keep it low in the bait. Most commercial builders use integrated belly weights/hangers because it's easier and puts the ballast in about the right spot. But you CAN put it in front or behind the hanger (or both). Stainless handwound screws hold just fine in epoxy, as do the storebought brass or stainless eye screws. I don't know what a lip alignment tool is - most of us eyeball them. Rattle - drill a hole from side to side, insert a worm rattle and cover it with sandable wood putty. When I started building, I copied commercial baits that I admired and worked well. Not a bad idea. Everyone wants their crankbaits, whether the first or 1000th, to work properly. Start from a design you know will work and elaborate from there as you gain skill and experience. My best advice? If you're making baits for yourself to fish, take your time, have fun, and do everything you can to keep the bait symetrical and straight. Hardwood flat sided plugs are easiest. You're on the right track.

[skeeter jones]

You might find it helpfull to buy three different size clear plastic lures, from one of the lure suppliers, shallow med and deep. You can see where they put the ballast and rattles in their lures. I used them to practice painting on as well. Wood lures will have a different denisity but they will be some what close. This is a good post to save to favorites hhttp://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8647ttp://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8647

[philB]

Hey rlcam

I aint 'heehawing' and there aint nothing wrong with diving in and giving it a go mate .

I think everyone on this forum has learnt by mistakes and sometimes it is the best way. My advice is if you have an idea in your head go for it, why not? cos there are two choices it either works or it doesn't.

Unstall them projects.

philB