Rounding of hardwood lures
84 replies to this topic
Posted 31 October 2007 - 08:34 AM
I use a belt sander. I have the type the sits on your bench.
I take the bait and make four passes on the "corner" of the bait and then make four passes on the other corner of the bait. It is a very fast process and once you get the hang of it (which takes no time at all), you can eliminate about 90% of the sanding normally required to round the bait and smooth it.
Here's a shot of how I start making each pass of the bait on the belt sander to round it off:
Then I sort of roll the edge of the bait along the belt sander until I've ground off a little of the sharp square edge:
You can round off flat portions of the bait by simply pushing the bait against the belt sander and moving side to side a bit:
An huge additional benefit of the bench belt sander is that it allows you to make the bait taper toward the head and the tail. In other words, the tail portion of the bait is thinner than the middle of the bait and the head can also be narrowed.
Here's a top view of a bait that I rounded with the belt sander. Note the taper towards the tail and head portion of the bait:
To taper the bait toward the tail, you simply lay the bait flat on the belt sander and push down on the very end of the tail. Then flip it over and do the other side so that you remove and equal amount of wood stock from both sides with the sanding belt.
You repeat the process for the head, by pushing down on the "nose" of the bait and let the belt sander do the work for you. Before you begin rounding off the edges or tapering the head and tail of the bait, you should add a center line as a guide. I use a compass for this. By adding a center line, you see at a glance how much wood you've removed from each flat side of the bait, when you are tapering the head and the tail.
Later this winter, I'll try to post some video footage of this process. Its fast, easy, and as I say, a big bonus is that you need to very little sanding with a piece of sandpaper in your hand.
Posted 31 October 2007 - 10:00 AM
Nice pictures of the process. Very helpfull. I'm still working on a way to get the side of a wide bait round and uniform. The side profile has a tapered round radius and if you're not careful you will end up with a flat spot. I'm kinda wondering what a lure will do if one side has a flat side and the other is round.
Posted 31 October 2007 - 10:44 AM
First let apologize for not being more clear on how I use a router to shape and roundover baits. If a picture is worth, well you know the rest, then three should clear it up. Pic 1 On the left in first picture is a flush trim bit, with bearing which is used to shape the bandsawed blank. Pic 2 Shows the holding fixture and pattern with the nails through it and two baits,, a blank and a filnal shaped bait. Pic 3 Is what the device looks like while rounding over a bait, with GUARD in place.
Posted 31 October 2007 - 04:48 PM
Fatfingers. It looks scary having your fingers so close to a fast moving cutter. Apart from the odd flat spot on the knuckles, which serve to remind you to be more careful next time, a belt sander is by far the safest solution. From a design point of view, you just have to avoid negative curvature, although some belt sanders allow you access to work at the curved end of the belt, but I remember my woodwork teacher was not overly impressed with that technique.
Safety - loose clothing is a huge danger here, I don't think anyone has ever mentioned that one. I've seen the mess that a dremel can do to my sweater!
Skeeter Jones. The lure will swim to one side, to such an extent that tuning the tow eye is unlikely to stop it.
Whittler. Aaahh! That will work!
Posted 31 October 2007 - 10:26 PM
whittler- Very, very cunning little tool there. good one .pete
Posted 01 November 2007 - 01:08 AM
Pete, the negative curves can be handled by the rounded end of the belt sander surface as you suggested.
I've considered the round-over bits and the inverted router, but I'm not sure how easy or expensive it might be do deal with the varying thickness of wood.
Also I don't know how one could use a round over and still have a body that tapers at the tail and the head.
Posted 01 November 2007 - 01:51 AM
Unless you are building flat sided baits, which don't particularly appeal to the eye, a belt sander is going to be needed anyway, so might as well do the whole job with one and remove the risk factor. I guess that I've just repeated what you have just stated Mr Fingers!
Posted 01 November 2007 - 04:35 AM
If I could upload a Word Document with pictures, I could show you something that will do both concave and convex curves easily. I have just about finished a 'throughwire tutorial' but can' get it to load with the pics - drives me nuts this caper. pete
Posted 01 November 2007 - 06:22 AM
Hopefully this works...
Nope, I can't embed the YouTube video. Maybe somebody who knows how can. The code is below.
Anyway, here's a link to "Routering a muskie bait" from a video I made before.
Posted 01 November 2007 - 06:29 AM
1. Negative curves are easily sanded with a drum sander mounted in a drill press or with the use of an oscillating spindle sander.
2. Varying thicknesses of wood are dealt with by using different radii roundover bits. I bought a set of 5 recently for $25.
3. Tapers are cut first and then the roundover performed. Attention to detail around the change in slope is required to avoid mistakes, but it isn't all that hard. Touching up the change in slope areas is done by hand after routering.
And something that I didn't see mentioned (or I missed it) is in the original question of rounding over HARDWOOD lures it should also be mentioned that routering hardwood (especially, but cedar too!) should be done in a series of passes if the roundover is large. It's safer and also causes less chipping and tearing. One must be especially careful around end grain too!
Posted 01 November 2007 - 04:37 PM
You're going to love this!
I walked into our carpentry shop a while ago and a carpenter was beltsanding a large piece of oak. No big deal right. Then I noticed the wood was in the middle of the bench, and no clamp's were in sight. All he had was this little mat under the wood. So with the use of this mat and a small router, I do all my roundover's with my hand's safely out of the way! For a full roundover say on a 3/4" thick lure I'll use a 3/8"roundover bit, backed out just slightly, leaving an edge for the guide bearing. A lure with a taper like a sucker, will be tapered first then routed. these grip mat's can be purchased at any woodworker's store.
Posted 01 November 2007 - 06:03 PM
Very cool! It looks similar to the mats they put between a futon and its frame.
Another method I've seen used is a vacuum table, of course it might be a tad more costly than a simple mat.
Posted 02 November 2007 - 11:25 AM
I use a bench mounted router to round of my baits which are similar to yours, i also use beech and a bit of meranti and have had no problems with it,admittedly a bit nerve wracking when you first start to use it but with big baits it's definately the way to go in my opinion.
Posted 02 November 2007 - 12:07 PM
Haven't posted for a while and nice to see your still hard at it .
Rowhunter, I have some of that stuff in my car on the dashboard which stops things sliding around. I had never thought about using it for that but will try anything once
Posted 04 November 2007 - 05:00 AM
I have read a few posts lately, here and on other forum, on sanding curves- I posted this recently on another forum, so hope you get something out of it.
This will not quite do compound curves but will do concave/ convex. I made this about 20 years ago and have used it for all my sanding ever since.
I use a disc sander I made with a motor from a free standing (i.e. portable) evaporative cooler (not sure what you call them there), I picked it up at the rubbish tip for $10. Just pull the ‘pelton fan blades’ off both ends of the motor and you have a low revving 4 speed double shafted electric motor. They are usually, 3 or 4 speed (about 150 rpm max); the motors are sealed, so no arching (because they operate in a very humid atmosphere), the shaft comes off both sides of the motor, so you can put a disc on both ends (fine & coarse).
What do I mean by an evaporative cooler – ‘ Google‘ it or
Evaporative coolers use a fan or blower to draw in outside air and pass it through a wet filter. As hot, dry air moves through the filter the water evaporates, cooling and humidifying the air. The cooled air is then blown through the room or house.
These are some of the profiles I do, the smaller one is 2" and the larger 3"
The disc is made of "custom wood" not sure what it is called there but it is composite sheet used in cabinetry/ kitchens etc. The material I used is 1" thick . I roughly cut out a circle near the size I needed and fixed it to the shaft. I then made a tool rest and 'turned' the edge with an appropriate size wood lathe tool ( I made one out of a file ground to the right radius).
As you can see you could add another disc on the opposite end and have coarse/ fine. this sander does it all (for me), takes a few to get used to sanding curves but when you get the knack, you will be impressed with how easy and accurate you can be.
hope this is of some help. Pete
Posted 04 November 2007 - 06:46 AM
Pete, you're a clever devil! That looks like something my Dad would have cooked up. His garage was full of home made tools, and all they did was exactly what they were supposed to do.
Nice job, and thanks for sharing.
I'm a much better carpenter than my Dad ever was, but he was a lot smarter than I.
Posted 04 November 2007 - 02:06 PM
I use a spindle sander with 1/2 to 1 inch 50 to 150 sleeves works great and can be used for allot of other things besides radius's of baits I like the router too and the video O2L everyone should have that if they don't already I know it helped me allot Thank You