Jump to content
23 replies to this topic
Posted 20 November 2007 - 06:50 PM
Has anybody ever tried clear coating with envirotex?
Posted 20 November 2007 - 08:45 PM
Envirotex and an epoxy glue called Devcon 2 ton epoxy are the two most popular finishing materials for hard baits.
Don't be afraid to ask questions on this board. This board is peppered with great guys that are more than willing to help and share ideas.
Posted 21 November 2007 - 05:40 PM
I use Envirotex Lite on all my lures. I have not used Devcon 2Ton but a lot of the fellas here do use it so I cannot comment on a comparison basis but what I can tell you is Envirotex is a very user friendly coating, very clear when cured and remains so, also its glass hard so very good for those toothy monsters . The finish is only as good as the preperation though .
Posted 21 November 2007 - 08:36 PM
Thanks for for the help, I've tried almost everything and still searching for the perfect clearcoat. I know that thats virtually impossible this side of hiring my own personal chemist . Devcon works great, a little thick for my taste, when I thin it,(denatured alcohol),it tends to yellow.C & S coatings one part epoxy is easy, but it's not tough enough and inconsistant with my paint.They make a 2 part that is as thin as water and as hard as devcon but it has the same inconsistancies( yellowing on pearls, crazing certain colors and even bleeding some colors) . These are but a few I've tried, I think I'll make some furniture so I can get some use out of all the leftovers:lol: . Next is envirotex, wish me luck.
Posted 22 November 2007 - 01:43 AM
Just as a side note, I have tried several two part epoxy finishes and was having loads of trouble with flaws in the finish usually fisheyes. Envirotex was the only one that was succesfull and I have had no problems with it at all also it is low viscosity so it spreads easily. What is very important is humidity and temperature. If you apply it in a low humidity and high temperature enviroment you will end up with a stunning finish
Here in my part of the UK the conditions are exactly the opposite so it is always a struggle creating the right conditions.
Posted 01 January 2008 - 12:35 PM
i also use envirotex (not yet tried any other product).
I also build a drying wheel.....
How long do you rotate the baits until the envirotex got sticky?
Last time I stopped it after 8hours but next morning the epoxy was concentrated on the lowest area of the bait (nouses)....
Posted 01 January 2008 - 01:59 PM
Q9, I think you must have mis-mixed the Etex for it not to begin hardening in about 2 hrs. It's slower than Devcon but still should be "dry to the touch" by 12 hrs, 90% cured in 24. For those seeking a one-part clear tough polyurethane, IMO Dick Nite Fishermun's Lurecoat, a moisture cured polyurethane, is tough to beat.
Posted 01 January 2008 - 06:46 PM
Phil is right about the etex being very user friendly but after using etex for 3 yrs. I switched to Dicknites and the reslts are more than satisfactory and I think the finish is harder than etex . Thats just my opinion though.
The DN's can be used with waterbased very easily.....just make sure you heat set ( I use a hairdryer ) to get best results.
Posted 01 January 2008 - 07:16 PM
Thanks. What is this stuff? Epoxy? 1 or 2 part? dip and hang or do you need to spin it? How long does it take to set up? I am curious. Toxic or smell bad? Ventilation needed? I have heard of it but never seen it offered anywhere. Man just what I need another top coat. Between clearcoat, mirrorcoat, e-tex, u-pol, some other 1 part epoxies, and various others I use, but I will give it a try if you think it is worth it. Just don't know enough about it.
Posted 01 January 2008 - 07:27 PM
1 part moisture cure urethane....as with any solvent base there is some odor. Set time approx. 4 hrs. Any ??? direct them to Dean....he's da man.
Posted 01 January 2008 - 07:59 PM
I used the search. Lots of interesting info. What kind of brush would you use to apply? Think I would like to go that route.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 01:00 AM
Moisture cured poly like Dick Nite is nice stuff but has to be handled right so it doesn't begin to cure in the can. Do a search for more detailed info on storage and handling. You can use a soft brush to apply it or you can dip your bait. It's quite thin, almost watery. I put the lure on a lure rotator for about an hour until the solvent flashes off, then hang it for about 24 hrs before handling or recoating. It will continue to cure for several days, maybe as long as a week. Don't let poly drip back into the container from the brush or dipped lure. The drops gather moisture while out of the can and will begin the cure process when dripped back in.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 09:32 AM
Would storing the DN in a squeeze bottle, so you're only dipping from an intermediate container like a shot glass, help in keeping the finish from setting in the storage container?
Posted 02 January 2008 - 10:00 AM
I have not had any problems with premature setting in the can because I transfer it to a different container aka wine bottle with a screw on lid. It makes for easy transfer to the shallow mason canning jar that I use for brushing the bait from. When resealing the bottle I just put a small piece of plastic wrap over the top (makes for easy lid removal) and screw the lid back on and keep it in a cool area. I learned this tip from T Bait
Posted 02 January 2008 - 10:44 AM
That's a great storage tip from da man, Hoodaddy--Although Dicknite's topcoat is a moisture cure urethane, its solvent catalyst is unfriendly to a lot of common plastic; glass or metal storage containers and lids are therefore mandatory.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 11:33 AM
And this stuff won't eat water based paints? Thank you for all the info guys
Posted 02 January 2008 - 12:44 PM
I use Createx and Parma Fascolor, both water-base latex paints, and both of which must be heat-set with a hair dryer to withstand the solvent in Dicknite's. You're basically steaming the water from the paint and curing it. The Createx for example, is often used as an airbrush T-shirt paint. The paint achieves permanence by heat-setting it in the clothes dryer; without which, it would wash out. I can't speak for any other water-base paints except for these two: They're what I use, and have had no reason to try anything else. T-bait had a problem with Wasco Wildlife colors in waterbase. We decided that one could coat the Wasco with Createx or Parma clear, heat-set it (the same way we do our Sharpie signatures), and then use the Dicknite's topcoat with no problem.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 01:27 PM
All that I know about DN's came from you............ well almost everything:lol:
Posted 02 January 2008 - 02:09 PM
That reminds me Cuz,...or actually Bob reminded me talking about applying it with a soft brush...I used a soft 5/8ths inch brush for applying DN recently and it was a revelation; it took me about 3 strokes to finish a lure...well maybe it was 4, but still it was mighty fast and smooth enough that I was truly amazed after applying it with smaller brushes for the last almost-two years. Mama always said I was a fast learner...