Qualitynine

attach soft fish to hard bait

17 posts in this topic

Hello together,

first let introduce myself, my name is Thomas and I am from Germany.

I started (looking) to build own hard baits some years ago, but forgot to continuou).

This year I turned back and read a lot and also did my first jerkbaits and crankbaits. The result is acceptable for me. The most problems I have with the finish, but I work to improve this :-))

I now want to start to build cranks; jerks where the body is a combination of hardbait and soft bait fish.

Therefore I am looking for ideas how to attach the soft fish to the hard bait - as done on fox warrier or fox rooter...

There should be a proper connection between them ( I do not like to attach the soft fish on a single hook and attach this to a screw eye)

So thank you for your ideas

Regards

Thomas alias Q9

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Can I just ask you why you don't like attaching it with a single hook and screw eye? I'm just in the process of trying to do the same thing and thats how I was planning on doing that. What were the problems you had with doing it that way? Thanks for the input.

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@ Iam Spartacus, thanks for reply.

I have no problem while attaching with a loose hook on a screw eye. - That is a different bait.

Here I want to check the other technique with proper fixation. The lure should look like a one-piece and not like a jointed one..

I have different ideas ( using a screw upside down; using metal wire formed as arrowhead,..) But seems not the best fixation.

Therefore I am looking for input from the specialists :yay:

Regards

Q9

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Crazy gluing the soft tail to the rear face of the hard bait would be the standard method of attachment. But I would imagine that the build up of glue on the rear face would be inconvenient and a problem to clean off without damaging the finish and the seal.

My solution would be to drill a 3mm dia hole in the rear of the hard section and inserting a short length of satay stick, protruding about 10 - 15mm. Glued in place and re-sealed for protection against water ingress.

The crazy glue would be applied to the satay stick (starpened to a point with a pencil sharpener) and the soft tail impaled.

If or when the glue builds up on the spigot, it can be scraped off with a craft knife safely, without compromising the seal.

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The method I use is to drill a 3/16" hole vertically in the rear of the bait and then an 1/8"slot is cut for the plastic tail to be inserted. The problem I have is, I do not pour plastics and have made my tails for testing by melting some plastic worms and pouring into a POP mold. The baits work well and the tails are easily replaced to change color or if they are damaged.

baits0397.jpg

baits0388.jpg

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The triple trout swimbait has a coil spring inserted into the tail section of the hard bait, to which you screw on the plastic tails. A drop of super glue keeps them from unscrewing.

The Hitch Hiker is a similar screw, but smaller, that could be inserted with epoxy into the rear of a crank, and onto which the plastic tail could be screwed. The Hitch Hiker comes in two sizes, and the larger one would certainly work for cranks.

Most online tackle stores sell the Hitch Hiker in both sizes.

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BruceKY,

Where'd you get your springs, and what material are they made from?

I'm have a devil of a time finding stainless steel springs, and I'm starting to think I'll just have to use regular springs and put them in and coat them with clear coat.

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Mark

I made my own using stainless steel wire. Not something you will want to make hundreds of. Kind of hard to describe exactly how I do it, but I will try. It is easier than it sounds, especially with smaller gauge wire.

I wrap the wire around the last four or five threads on a bolt. Use a smaller bolt than the coil you want to make because it will spring out some. Take the coil off of the bolt and hold it with round nose pliers right up the center of the coil then continue bending the tag end of the wire to center. Next bend the tag end at the center of the coil so that it sticks strait out the central axis of the coil. Finish by making a hook shaped bend on the Tag end of the wire. Trim each end with wire cutters or a cut-off wheel on a dremel tool for thick wire.

I use my dremel tool with a 1/16 bit to make two holes in the tail of the lure right next to each other then carefully remove the material between them to make a slot for the “hitch hiker”. Glue it in with epoxy.

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Stainless coils are available:

One place is Barlows, but I'm sure that there's other sources...see

http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID=2872&CATID=114

and

http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID=2380&CATID=114

Seperate topic but saltwater stainless sinker/jig eyeletrs are avail. now too.

Hope this helps you guys!

Clemmy

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Dear all,

thank you very much for your kind support.

I got some very good ideas which I have to use and see the result.

@Bruce KY - the bait posted by you, looks like sth. I was thinking for (Jerkbait?)

Thank you

Regards

Q9

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BruceKY,

What gauge sst wire do you use? I'd like to make some springs that are about 1/4" or 3/8" in diameter.

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mark

I use the same stuff I make leaders and wire forms with. For big muskie baits I have been using 0.04" - to 0.06" wire. For bass baits I would recommend 0.02" to 0.03" wire.

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Stainless coils are available:

One place is Barlows, but I'm sure that there's other sources...see

http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID=2872&CATID=114

and

http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID=2380&CATID=114

Seperate topic but saltwater stainless sinker/jig eyeletrs are avail. now too.

Hope this helps you guys!

Clemmy

Thank-you to all of you who answered my question with special mention for both Clemmy & BruceKY, for their answers. I'm to lazy to do it the way Bruce does, so I'll go Clemmey's route & just buy them for $8.50 for 100 @ Barlow's...lol

Thanks again to all, Cheers! -The Muskyman

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I looked at the Barlow's springs, and I agree with Bruce. They look too small for larger plastics.

You can make your own by wrapping some spinnerbait wire around a 3/8" lag screw. That makes a coarse spring that works well for swimbait tails.

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