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Painting supplies ( confused )
17 replies to this topic
Posted 04 December 2007 - 07:04 PM
I have been following the threads for a bit and I have done some searches.
I just get more confused and stressed with all the different way's everyone does stuff.
I was thinking of trying to paint some hard baits and spending $400 to $500 I want to get the right thing the first time.
so far I am considering the Iwata hp-cs and a compressor.
what paints should I get ?
do I need to purchase cleaning supplies ? if so what works best.
I want high quality paint and clear coat
what else should I purchase ?
Thanks, I know I will have more.
Posted 04 December 2007 - 08:39 PM
You can use any brand formulated for airbrushing (assume we're talking acrylic latex). I can't tell the brands apart when dry, so when I look for paint it's mostly about specific color. The HP's with .2 mm tips will not work with coarse hobby acrylics. Any airbrush can be 99% cleaned with a spray bottle of cool water, or by running tap water over/through it. Windex, soap, or solvents like acetone or denatured alcohol make it a little quicker and more complete, IMO. Ultrasonic cleaner? Even better but most don't use one. Be careful with your HP needle and nozzle. They are EASY to damage and not cheap to replace. Everyone starts out with paint, equipment, and no experience. You work your way through it and develop procedures that work for you, adopting tips you see here on TU if they fit. Do a search on Devcon Two Ton epoxy and on Dick Nite moisture cured polyurethane for the 2 most popular clearcoats among TU'ers.
Posted 05 December 2007 - 08:40 PM
So what is the best name brand Acrylic then and were to get it or is it local stuff ?
What about were to get Dick night ?
Posted 05 December 2007 - 09:07 PM
try Createx paints... I also like Parma Faskolor paints... both are affordable and do a great job.... they can be bought on line (ebay and other stores).... or from a Hobby Town or Hobby Lobby....
On a TU post a couple of years ago, someone posted a cleaning solution of 50% water, 25% Simple Green, and 25% Windex.... I have been using it since then and it does an excellent job.... Just have to watch the ventilation... the Simple Green will choke you up fast....... I run it through after each color change.......
Good choice on the airbrush. I just purchased an Iwata compressor from Hobby Lobby and love it.... Plus Hobby Lobby has a 40% coupon this week.... which helps........
Dean McClain is the DN guru....... I am a Devcon man..........
Hope this helps...
Posted 05 December 2007 - 09:28 PM
Now should I get opaque, Transparent,matalics, pearls ?
LOL, probably most.
Pearls I see.
any special colors you would like to run off ?
What about base coat, is that just a flat white then ?
Does this type of paint need to be thinned ?
Posted 05 December 2007 - 10:30 PM
I have them all I use the transparents (all of them) mostly and they mix pretty well with each other. Pearls of course (white, blue, purple and silver the most). Florescents (Yellow, green, and orange).... I use Createx Opaque White as a base coat... It sprays pretty thick so I sometimes thin it with a matte base coat. The Createx opaque and pearls can sometime spray thick. The transparents are cool. The Parma faskolors I have never thinned.
My favorite paints (shhhh) are the Faskolor Faschange (gold, blue, red, and green).... Createx calls them Chameleon..... The Gold is not made anymore but can still be found on a shelf in some places...... They go on white but will have a color glimmer or flash.... gives the bait a nice flash in the water.......
Hope this helps......
Posted 05 December 2007 - 10:34 PM
PB, I use inexpensive Apple Barrel hobby flat white as a basecoat and shoot it with a large tip brush like a Paasche VL or a Badger 170T. Any white will do as long as it is heavily pigmented. Some brands sell a "Cover White" airbrush paint that works well. The 2 "must have" body colors are pearl white and chartreuse. Everything else depends on your personal taste. I tend to favor transparent paints over opaque, but there isn't always alot of difference between the two. Createx and most other brands can usually be used full strength straight out of the bottle. If you need thinning, just mix in a little water until your paint is the consistency of milk. You have to experiment some to get the perfect viscosity for your brush and the effects you like to create.
Posted 05 December 2007 - 11:44 PM
I'm in love with wildlife colors by smith paint. You can order from WASCO.
You can do some really cool stuff with transp. colors on clear plastic.
Posted 06 December 2007 - 05:19 AM
When you shoot the Faschange paints, or Chameleon, do you have a dark base? Thanks Doug
Posted 06 December 2007 - 10:14 AM
No you don't. The Faschange looks great on white and sometimes I add it at the end for some flash. Now... the Fasflip paints (true chameleon) require a black or dark background.... I am not as big a fan of those...
Posted 06 December 2007 - 04:37 PM
What do you guy's like for holding the cranks when painting ?
does a vise for fly tieing work well ?
Posted 06 December 2007 - 05:04 PM
When Im doing balsa baits I use oil base kilz for the sealer and after sanded with 400 grit and recoated createx lays on real good.
Posted 06 December 2007 - 06:00 PM
Thanks BJ, I think I have a bottle of Gold. Do you put one coat on, or more? Thanks Doug
Posted 06 December 2007 - 06:36 PM
Doug..... The Gold sux.... just send it to me and I will throw it away for you.
Seriously.... one coat will give you the desired effect..... One bottle should last you a good while.......
Posted 06 December 2007 - 06:40 PM
I like medical hemostats both straight and curved... Do an ebay search and you can find a bunch..... It won't let me cut and paste
Posted 06 December 2007 - 09:43 PM
Thanks much for all the help.
What about sanding, do you sand between any coats if so what grit.
Posted 06 December 2007 - 09:59 PM
No... I don't.... unless I find some flaws after the base coat.... then I might sand and re-base coat.
Posted 07 December 2007 - 12:24 AM
Predator, you should consider clearing between sections of your painting process.
For example, when you get your base colors faded on and before you start adding stripes or scales, shoot some clear first. Or you can even use Krylon spray can clear. I like automotive clear because its tough, hard, and I can shoot it with my airbrush.
That way if you make a mistake with the scales, stripes, gills, fins or any other detail work, you can usually just wipe if off and start over without ruining the fades of base colors underneath. It can prevent you from having to re-prime and start all over again.
It can be a good idea to clear the entire job when your done. That way, the paint is good and protected while you finish the process by adding envirotex or Devcon 2 ton epoxy or whatever you choose for a finish clearcoat. Paint can be a bit delicate to handle until you get that final hard clearcoat on.