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Mesh scale pattern question

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#21 clamboni


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Posted 16 December 2007 - 02:08 AM

You're right. I stand corrected. I put the silver stripes on first and shot the black over the stripes and the back through the net.

(I was in a hurry to get down to the basement when I wrote that.:lol:)

Thanks, V-Man. I have a Sony digital. Its nice but its a battery eater!~

:lol: I reread that like 5 times making sure that's what you said. Sweet bait, BTW. Is that a silver base under the chartreuse, too?

#22 fatfingers


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Posted 16 December 2007 - 01:17 PM

No, the all the paint was applied over Krylon Fusion white spray paint, which comes in a can from Walmart. It is what I use for a basecoat on all my baits.

I've had good luck with it as far as adhesion to just about every type of surface I've used it on. I've used over baits sealed with sanding sealer and baits sealed with epoxy. I feel that it probably has a better chance of adhering to epoxy because it supposedly fuses to plastic, but that's just a hunch.

The silver I used for the stripes is enamel and the color is called "chrome." If applied directly over the white Fusion as a base coat (which it was not for this lure, as I mentioned above), it looks so much like foiling that its hard to tell the difference, so it can be a very versatile color for a lot of different patterns where a reflective base is desired.

That's the nice thing about using both enamels and water-based paints; you have a wider palette to choose from, plus the enamels have different drying properties and once you cross over to using other than water-based materials, you have a whole world of different pearls available. Additionally, you have automotive clears, which can be used both to mix pearls and apply as a clearcoat between layers of paint.

As I've mentioned before, applying clearcoat between layers of paint is a way of protecting the paint you've already done, in the event that you screw up applying scales, fins, gills, stripes, and so on. Made a mistake? Just wipe it off and start over. In most instances, the automotive clear coat is so hard and strong, that paint thinner used to wipe off the botched paint won't cut through it. Thus, you can protect your base coats and other completed portions of the multi-step work.

I've often combined both water-based paints and enamels on the same bait, by simply using automotive clear between the two types of paint. I've had no problems at all in doing so and the baits have been torture tested by way of musky fishing, wihch includes racking the baits off structure while high-speed trolling, etc.:eek::):):)

#23 KcDano


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Posted 16 December 2007 - 01:28 PM

When using mesh or netting to applie scales it is a good idea to run a flame across the material prior to spraying the scales. This will singe any loose fibers and produce a cleaner pattern. Someone mentioned painting from bottom to the top of a lure. For scales and details it isn't much of and issue. However, if you spray quick drying cleacoat with an airbrush, it is prudent to start from the top and finish at the bottom of the lure. By doing so you will constantly cover the overspray with wet paint that will melt the overspay into the finish. If you cleacoat or basecoat from the bottom up you risk the overspray lying on top of the finish and altering the appearance.

#24 Spike-A-Pike


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Posted 17 December 2007 - 12:35 AM


I just double checked the Christmas tree, no packages from Ohio yet. :cry:
I hope "Santa" didn't screw up again...

I'll just keep looking out the window.:nuhuh:




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Posted 17 December 2007 - 09:01 AM

Thanks to everyone on this thread!! :worship: 10 minutes of reading has helped out a ton. First tried it last week and not that impressed, with all the tips should look like I want it to!

#26 mark poulson

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 08:15 PM

I use self adhesive drywall mesh tape for my scales. Admittedly, I only do larger lures, 4"+ and up, but it works for me. It's not as nice a pattern as the hexagonal mesh pattern you get from fabrics, but I have a ton of it, so I use it. You can double it, offsetting the screening, to get a finer scale, or different patterns. I typically run it at a 45 degree angle, to get a more scaly looking pattern. I use clips to get it to follow the contours of the lure more closely, but I usually only scale the sides and shoulders, so how well it fits at the top and bottom aren't really important to me.
I don't think there is a residue from the self adhesive glue. Least wise, it doesn't interfere with subsequent paint coats, as far as adhesion goes.
Short story long, works for me.

#27 rlcam



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Posted 25 December 2007 - 12:56 AM

Whoooa....Man I just sat here and read FF's post over and over about ten times and couldn't figure it out either,and then I read on down.I was wondering if he used a special net for that(I was thinking,now he sprays silver and gets black scales and what...)guess that's why you need to read the whole thread first.

P.S. You are da man,those colors are awesome,great looking bait. :worship: