No, the all the paint was applied over Krylon Fusion white spray paint, which comes in a can from Walmart. It is what I use for a basecoat on all my baits.
I've had good luck with it as far as adhesion to just about every type of surface I've used it on. I've used over baits sealed with sanding sealer and baits sealed with epoxy. I feel that it probably has a better chance of adhering to epoxy because it supposedly fuses to plastic, but that's just a hunch.
The silver I used for the stripes is enamel and the color is called "chrome." If applied directly over the white Fusion as a base coat (which it was not for this lure, as I mentioned above), it looks so much like foiling that its hard to tell the difference, so it can be a very versatile color for a lot of different patterns where a reflective base is desired.
That's the nice thing about using both enamels and water-based paints; you have a wider palette to choose from, plus the enamels have different drying properties and once you cross over to using other than water-based materials, you have a whole world of different pearls available. Additionally, you have automotive clears, which can be used both to mix pearls and apply as a clearcoat between layers of paint.
As I've mentioned before, applying clearcoat between layers of paint is a way of protecting the paint you've already done, in the event that you screw up applying scales, fins, gills, stripes, and so on. Made a mistake? Just wipe it off and start over. In most instances, the automotive clear coat is so hard and strong, that paint thinner used to wipe off the botched paint won't cut through it. Thus, you can protect your base coats and other completed portions of the multi-step work.
I've often combined both water-based paints and enamels on the same bait, by simply using automotive clear between the two types of paint. I've had no problems at all in doing so and the baits have been torture tested by way of musky fishing, wihch includes racking the baits off structure while high-speed trolling, etc.