dramone

urethan topcoat

8 posts in this topic

i read in several threads that some of you use urethan "lacquer" for the final coat on their baits.

what is it exactly? (product name). how durable is it?

thanks for the help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Various formulations and brands or polyurethane get used for clearcoating but a popular one here on TU is the Dick Nite Fishermun's Lurecoat, a moisture cured polyurethane. Dick Nite often has an ad at the top of this page through which you can order a sample pack of the product at a considerable discount. Don't know if it can be shipped internationally but there are other brands that may be available in your area. It first dries quickly to a normal (not especially durable) finish, then cures over several days into a much harder coating that is glossy and tough. It's great if you like to dip baits. It also has some handling and storage quirks that need to be observed, so do a search on it for more details.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Urethane is not lacquer. Urethane is the modern replacement to lacquer. Urethane clears can be used as a clearcoat. However, many brands and types do not work well. They flake off. Plus with urethane clears you need to buy an activator and hardner to make it work. You do not need activators and hardners to use urethane paints, just the clearcoats. For a quart of good urethane clear plus activator and hardner you are looking at around $100.00 USD. And unless you know what you are really buying, you could be wasting alot of money.

Clear lacquer was used for many years in the U.S. for clearcoating crankbaits. The main product was called alpha-cryl. It was made by BASF. It was good stuff. But it contained lead in it and was banned here in the U.S. by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Since you are in Switzerland you may be able to find it. Check with your local car paint dealers. They may know how to get it for you. It sold here in the U.S. for $80.00 USD a gallon. With Alpha-Cryl you just dip the lure in the clear and hang it to dry. Strings will run off of the end of the bait. Just let it dry and cut off the strings of lacquer from the end of the bait when dry. Then just take a small brush with some clear on it and wipe it on the end of the bait. This covers up the marks from cutting the strings. The bait will look perfect. Good luck.

Skeeter

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

first of all: thank you very much for the replys :yay:

Alpha-Cryl is no longer sold in switzerland as well as in the european union. but i'll check that.

so, for an urethane clearcoat i would need an activator and hardner. is it a 3 component system?

@skeeter

since Alpha-Cryl is no longer sold, what do you use as substitude?

i found several urethan clearcoats used for "yachting". they are based on Acryl-Polyurethan(DD) 2components or Urethan-Alkydresin.

i guess i have to ask a car-painter for a sample to try them first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The urethane clear, hardner, and activator are sold separately. When you select a brand of clear then there are manufacturer recommendations for the type of hardner and activator to use. They can also suggest different mixtures of the three parts to either slow or quicken the drying process. I do not use urethane clears. I use Devcon. That is right.... I brush the clearcoat by hand onto every lure that I make. I just prefer it that way. You can still find alpha-cryl hidden away in some places. But it is hard to locate. Plus once you run out of the gallon that you have found, you are back to looking for another clearcoat to take it's place. Good luck... let me know if you have any other questions.

Skeeter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most of the urethanes require two componets: Clear and hardner/activators. In some instances a reducer is used to improve flow out and reduce orange peel, however, it is not required to finish lures. There are other additives used to melt a blend into an existing finish. But they are HOT and can create a mess in a real hurry if one is not careful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dear skeeter, KcDano and BobP

thanks a lot for your help! i also use d2t as clearcoat on my baits, but the coat might be to thick for for my actual "project bait" (4.3 inch 7 segments, 2mm space between each)...

i spoke with a car-painter today. he will give me a sample of 2k PU clear for free to test. if you are interested i'm glad to share the experiences with that clear! (available in the U$)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now