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11 replies to this topic
Posted 21 December 2007 - 05:49 PM
Hello again everyone.I have a couple of questions on this one.I am thinking of switching the Dick Nites topcoat and was wandering if anyone here sprays this onnto their baits.And how this works out for you.If not does anyone have any input on it.How long to rotate it ,how long to dry ,do I need to rotate if im spraying it,for you guys that dip how do you keep it off of the bill,etc. im looking for any kind of help here.
Also I'm trying to do some really natural shad patterns.I want lots of color changing action in these.I paint with the createx and was wandering If I would just use the iridescents or do I need different paints altogether.Any help on this will be greatly appreciated .
what do you guys think of the new avatar?
Posted 21 December 2007 - 10:03 PM
Some here on TU shoot DN, others brush, others dip. I dip and think it's perfect for that since it is very thin. I dip a bait and take care not to drip DN back into the container (it will start the whole container curing). I dip just past the start of the lip. It's unobtrusive so no problem, IMO. Hold it over a newspaper until the rapid drips stop then put it on a drying wheel for about an hour until the solvent evaporates. I let mine dry for 24 hrs, then dip a second time for a thicker coating. It takes several days for DN to get really hard - DN says about a week. If thrown before that, it will develop hook rash more easily. When fully cured, it's very hard, slick and clear. I don't see any gotchas with shooting it, just don't pour any unused DN back in the storage container.
Great Avatar! Paint: whatever looks real to you is the deal.
Posted 21 December 2007 - 11:59 PM
One other option is to use the pearl powder that is used on cars. You can buy it by the gram. I am getting mine for around 6 bucks a gram.
Posted 22 December 2007 - 01:34 AM
ty how do you go about applying the pearl powder.ive seen it before on the web but have no idea how to use it.
Posted 22 December 2007 - 08:00 AM
Jimmie, I just started this week and I dipped DN and sprayed it once,
for me dipping worked great, it is almost like water.
spraying it, it went on thinner and it is hard to tell how much actually went on, then I had to clean the gun, so dipping takes like 2 seconds to use and spraying about 5 min. once you clean the gun.
You will get a little on the edge of bil but you tip the bait top to bottom to just mis the bil.
I also dipped with the blue painters masking tape still on and I had no problem removing the tape the next day.
Posted 22 December 2007 - 09:48 AM
You mix them into 1 coat of your clear after you are through painting colors. I normally go color, clear, clear with pearl powder, then clear again before the top coat is applied. You can get them from your local auto parts stores that custom mix paint. I get mine for around 6 bucks a gram. The powder pearl will mix with the createx clear. 3 grams per quart is what the brand I am using is recommended at. You can do smaller amounts if you want to do the math. This is one of the methods that you can use for color changes or flp/flop.
Posted 22 December 2007 - 10:17 AM
thanks again guys.ernel do you have any photos of baits that youve done using this method?
Posted 22 December 2007 - 10:28 AM
I will get you some pics after christmas. I will make a few new then. My new powder is under the tree.
Posted 22 December 2007 - 10:56 AM
Parma's Fascolors has an interference paint called Faschange in blue, purple, and red that will change color if applied over black, and will show various degrees of highlights over other other colors, from a light iridescence on up. They also make, or have made some Fasflip colors, if you can still find those, like Createx Chameleon...I'm still not sure that both the Parma and the Createx don't come off of the same production line: I can't tell any differences in their colors or characteristics, and I use both interchangebly. Parma says its paint is for Lexan models. I buy mine at a Hobbytown.
Michael's craft stores, and Hobby Lobby carry Jacquard's Pearl Ex powdered pigments; lots of colors. Look for a 40% off coupon in the paper for Michael's.
Dick himself sprays dicknite's topcoat on his spoons, so you might shoot him an email and ask him any specifics on spraying. I brush mine on without dilution, and it flashes really quickly. I've never checked for a minimum turning time, but I could probably remove them after 10 minutes.
Posted 22 December 2007 - 11:07 AM
Cool Thank you so much.So I could actually do the flip flop patterns with the pearl powders?I've asked about it a few times on here but really haven't gotten any feedback at all on this matter.I can get some color change with the iridescents that I use but its just not what I'm looking for.
If I wanted to do a flip flop shad pattern say with the colors on this bait would I paint the purple and then clearcoat and then spray the clear with the blue pearl powder in it then do my final clearcoating?Would this give me a purple to blue flip flop.I cant get the pic to upload but you get what I'm saying
Posted 22 December 2007 - 11:14 AM
Dean thank you as well.I have some of the fascolor but I just have some trouble with it because I rarely shoot black.I am really looking to do like purple and blue blue green blue silver combos.I would really like to make some flip flop shad patterns.I can get a little out of the parmas with the purple over the blue .I just dont get very fired up about the end results.I want these things to like like theyr'e alive.Any tips you could give me with it from your'e experience would be much appreciated I really like your'e work and you always seem to be helping someone so thank you very much. How much do you pay for your Parma ?The cheapest I get it is $12 for 2 ounces.
Posted 22 December 2007 - 04:40 PM
I think I pay $9 for the Fasflip, sometimes...I ususally get some standard colors with the Faschange and the Fasflip,. and usually I get charged for the regular paint price.
I like the very subtle irridescence I get with the Faschange colors scaled over white, pearls, light blues: I like a blue or purple that I can't hardly see until the light hits it a certain way. That isn't exactly "jumping out at you" but it does look very natural, like the irridescence you get from live fish. I also like building lure colors by using several similar colors and/or accent colors to capture the color shifts and changes. This is what builds depth in the color scheme. Createx and other latexes are good for this anyway, having a bit more dimension to the paint than some other "slicker" paints, so I try to take best advantage of this characteristic. For example, I'll "build" a brown color on the back of a lure by maybe starting with a little tan very lightly smoked on for the bottom edge, and apply it heavier on top; then add maybe some copper and gold with some darker brown to maximize the depth of the final color, with the slight color changes reflecting different shades in a short transitional area, which is the key to lifelike painting absent of strong surface features. Likewise, you can also use strong color contrasts to add finish depth, which becomes more effective the more stained the water is, with colors such as chartreuse and black, etc.
The slight color shifts of the Faschange paints flip enough to add some depth and interest to the bait's paint. That is just what I want for fishing lures. I would probably go for stronger effects if I were painting hot rods, or custom motorcycles. But I'm not.
The more you play with colors, the better you'll get. I almost never use just one color on the back of the lure, for example. With blues and grays, I'll use both in various shades and add a little sparkle to it with some silver. I'll paint a Tennessee Shad or a Citrus Shad color, but for me, and a lot of other experienced painters, the added dimension from adding various other complimentary colors or features, like some subtle metallic stripes running through the pattern, will really make the recipe color come alive.