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Circuit board crankbait bills.
29 replies to this topic
Posted 01 January 2008 - 10:08 PM
I am new to lure making and I have seen some crankbaits made with this type of bill, but I do not know much about it. I was wodering if these bills are better that lexan, and if so how? And if the action of the lure is different in any way? Thank you.
Posted 01 January 2008 - 11:32 PM
Circuitboard has become popular because it's thin (dives fast) and because it rebounds off cover more sharply, producing more strikes. It's been popular on shallow crankbaits for awhile but you see it more and more on deep divers where it's used to get a somewhat deeper dive. I use 1/32" G-10 circuitboard (aka Garolite, aka Micarta) or 1/16" polycarbonate (aka Lexan) for most lures. It comes in various colors, so ask before you order it.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 03:44 PM
Where can you pick up the clear circuit board material. I have been cnc lexan and ready to try something else. Thanks Guys
Posted 02 January 2008 - 07:04 PM
No such thing as clear circuit board G-10 to my knowledge. It's made from a substrate fabric (often fiberglass) coated with a thermoset resin. I like the the white board from asp-rocketry.com. Mcmasters.com sells a yellow G10 and a greenish G-11 board. These are the only places I know that sell G-10 in small sizes like 12x12". Otherwise you only see full 4'x8' boards for sale. I'd check mcmasters first since they sometimes change the color of their board, and ther prices are very good. It's listed in their online store as Garolite.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 08:11 PM
Mcmaster also has a G-7 board that is advertized as being white in color. I got some of the G-10 recently form them and it was very pale yellow almost white in color.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 10:04 PM
I buy my curcuit board lips from jennsnetcraft, for you guys who cut your own lips from curcuit board material I would like to know what you use to cut them out.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 10:19 PM
Yes, a friend ordered G-10 and got several sheets of yellow plus a sheet of white. I just don't like the yellow color, it doesn't seem to match any lure paint job I've ever done. If they changed over to white, that would be nice! The problem I see with G7 is the cost: $14.77 versus $5.38 for a sq ft of G-10. The G-11 for $6.86 sq ft is an attractive light green color. I still get white from asp-rocketry.com (an amateur rocket site). Wherever you get it, check the color before you buy - suppliers and colors may change.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 11:33 PM
If you don't like the color of the bill material, can't you just paint it and coat it when you coat the rest of your lure?
I have a couple of lures with painted bills. They work.
Posted 02 January 2008 - 11:39 PM
Moon, I use a pair of Wiss straight cut metal snips from Home Depot to cut to about 1/16" outside the lip outline, then go to the exact line with a Dremel tool chucked with a fine grit sanding drum. Same thing for Lexan lips. It's pretty fast and accurate.
Mark - sure you can paint them but I just prefer them plain.
Posted 19 January 2009 - 02:41 AM
Is there anyone that sells lure blanks with these lips ? I really would like to try them without spending a fortune and having someone elses paint job on it.
Posted 19 January 2009 - 02:51 AM
Sox, you can buy wood blanks from several sources but you'll have to buy the lips separately and cut the lip slots yourself. On flatsided baits, that's not difficult with a bandsaw or jigsaw. On fat round baits, it can be a pain to get them straight. Janns Netcraft sells a painted plastic crankbait, the FS Medium Diver Body, which has a circuit board lip and costs $3. They also sell some precut circuit board lips. You can also find unpainted plastic bodies that have very thin plastic lips that mimic some of the effect of circuit board.
Edited by BobP, 19 January 2009 - 02:56 AM.
Posted 19 January 2009 - 07:52 PM
Jann's also sells the FS Medium Diver unpainted. They come 2 to a pack and cost $4.49. With the unpainted baits, the lip is pegged to the body, not pre-glued, so it does move side to side. You either have to epoxy it to the bait yourself, or hope that your topcoat does a good enough job of holding it in place. I've painted up a few, but won't have a chance to throw them until all this snow and ice melts. These baits look very similar to an OSP HPF crank.
Posted 22 January 2009 - 03:47 AM
I just ordered some before I read that you have to glue the lip. That kinda sucks any ideas on how to glue em? Or should I d2t em? HELP!
Posted 22 January 2009 - 06:07 AM
I drill a few small holes in the back part of the lip and use epoxy to glue them in. This creates a mechanical bond between the lip and wood. Good Luck. MAV
Posted 22 January 2009 - 06:15 AM
@ red sox 58
I do it the same way like maverick , in addition I'd also cut some grooves into the base of the lip with a small "Dremel" router bit .
good luck , diemai
Posted 22 January 2009 - 08:53 AM
If your line tie is not in the lip, you can glue them in with gap filling crazy glue. Then fill any voids with the same epoxy you use to coat the finished lure.
I don't know how strong that joint would be in a lure with the line tie in the bill.
Posted 22 January 2009 - 09:14 AM
The first couple I painted up, I used DN's to fill the gaps when I clear coated. So far, it seems to be holding up well, but I won't really know until I get a chance to throw them. I'm going to try to epoxy one and super glue one the next time I paint them up. I'll let you know how that turns out...
Posted 22 January 2009 - 03:21 PM
ok, i dont think that they tie into the bill, they are plastic so i assume that there is already a slot for the bill. I guess ill see when they come.
Posted 22 January 2009 - 09:31 PM
I called Janns Netcraft today and they said on all of their plastic lure blanks that the lips were already set, and all the consumer has to do is paint and attach split rings and hooks. If you got plastic ones that werent secure, maybe you should look into sending them back.