44 replies to this topic
Posted 03 January 2008 - 06:02 PM
The dream-state was the result of falling to the bottom of my fermenter while making a water, malt (malted barley), hops, and yeast fermented beverage. Despite my efforts to drink myself to safety, I was over come and passed out. I sometimes forget to breathe while consuming gallons of fermented specialty chocolate, caramel and Munich malts and is delicately seasoned with Noble Hallertauer hops lager beverages.
I'm feeling better know and hope it happens again later tonight.... lol
Posted 03 January 2008 - 06:17 PM
Bruce you will get along just fine at the TU gathering! Be sure and bring some handcrafted brew!
Posted 03 January 2008 - 08:29 PM
Phew, I think I'll hang with the decidedly less trouble, but I'm afraid far superior-looking, flat back eye, inset in a flat back hole created by a small Forstner bit. Seriously, I think domed eyes look way better when they are slightly inset, particularly on smaller size lures. On Musky size or lures around 5+ inches, the domed eyes start to look nearly as good as the inset eyes,,,or don't stand out as unnaturally as they do on a 3 inch lure...but far be it from me to rain near-beer on anyone's 3:40 a.m. inebriated engineering clusterfun! (see Bruce's Vision, or... "Publicly Violating a Mini-Cooper")
Posted 04 January 2008 - 08:56 AM
Apparently Bruce in now the TU guru on red eyes...
......or at least bloodshot.....
Posted 04 January 2008 - 11:53 PM
Well, the results are in after a couple of days testing. The technique as outlined at the beginning of this thread, did not work out, so I experimented further and came up with something that did.
Originally, I wanted to produce an eye with a clear lens, with the black dot floating in space, for a true 3D effect. I did manage this, but the clarity of the lens was very poor. I tried with clear silicone, the result was opaque. I tried with resin, the result was better, but still not clear enough to give the 3D effect, plus the transition from the lens to the white was very visible and not aesthetically pleasing. In addition, the larger lens inhibited the flexible backing, reducing its ability to form to the lures body shape.
I found in initial tests that the RTV would separate from the silicone, but in practice, it was a messy procedure and an unacceptable percentage of eyes were damaged. Also, the finish from the RTV was not as smooth as I was hoping for, giving a cloudy surface.
I could not obtain the marbles, so made the dome shape from dowel. This was easy to achieve and allowed me to control the size of the eye to my exact requirements. A spherical shape isn’t necessarily the best solution.
I did not manage to obtain the tube, so the eyes in the picture are straight from the mould and untrimmed. The tube cutter should give a very tidy result.
I abandoned the concave rear shape. This was messy to achieve and with the flexibility of the silicone backing, completely unnecessary. Basically, apart from the black card dots, the whole plan changed!
Plan B method
Obtain the cutting pipe to suit the size of eye that you require.
Create a dome pattern from dowel, to match the pipe size.
create a pattern in plasticine, again with reference to the cutting pipe. Pour a Plaster of Paris positive master.
From the master, several moulds can be poured in RTV, depending on the level of production required.
Heat the RTV mould in hot water, close to boiling and melt some wax. Dry the mould, paint on the wax and leave to cool slowly in air. The wax layer will allow the cast eyes to be removed easily without damage.
Punch out the black dots. Mix a teaspoon of resin. D2T will work. Place a small drop or dab of the resin in each mould cavity. Position the card dot onto the resin and leave to harden.
Squeeze enough white silicone to slightly overfill each cavity. Dip your finger in Pam oil and gently spread the silicone flat. The Pam will prevent the finger sticking to the silicone and dragging the silicone from the mould cavity. Over spill is OK.
Coat a piece of flat plastic (lexan or similar works well) with a straight edge. Firmly, drag the straight edge across the mould face ONCE only, to remove all the excess silicone. Leave over night to cure.
Boil a pan of water. Place the mould in the water for a couple of minutes, to soften the wax. The eyes can now easily be rotated out of the cavities with your finger. The mould is now ready for the next coat of wax and the process repeated.
The result is a very flexible eye that will attach to any curvature. It is probably not much different now than you guys are already making, but it has been an interesting journey, mostly around in circles.
Posted 05 January 2008 - 06:25 AM
vodka, a glue called Goop is clear, flexible and strong, I use it alot for other stuff, maybe this would work ?
Posted 05 January 2008 - 07:29 AM
Jim. Thanks for your input. Yes, there are a lot of materials to try out. I will continue to experiment with what I have available in my local stores.
If I were a plastics user, soft plastics would be a very good solution. Using a shiny Plaster of Paris mould, black blob, clear lens and white latex paint backing. This would be a very cheap, simple and effective solution.
Posted 05 January 2008 - 07:33 AM
soft plastic would probably curl your black part ? being 300 deg. ?
Posted 05 January 2008 - 08:07 AM
The black dot would be a drop of black plastic, rather than card.
Posted 05 January 2008 - 10:02 AM
There is a water-based silicone available that comes out white, but cures clear. It might be an alternative. Much clearer than the original GE Clearseal. Also, a little harder, but still flexible.
I think I have a tube in one of my trucks. If I do, I'll post the brand name.
Posted 05 January 2008 - 10:51 AM
Good work V-Man! And I apologise:
I went a little OT with my aesthetic value post, and I should have designated it as such, because it was not in keeping with the most valid work taking place; which was beginning from scratch to find a better method of creating a more flexible and therefore more versatile domed eye!
A couple of days ago I purchased a 1-part non-foaming clear urethane glue called Liquid Fusion, packaged, and contained in a two ounce squeeze bottle. Upon removing the bottle from the package, I notice there was a small, clear, flexible, cured blob lightly stuck to the outside of the bottle, As I removed it, I immediately thought of this thread, as it appears to perhaps be a good material from which to make a domed eye. The label promises, Maximum strength, Non-foaming, Non-toxic, 100% waterproof, and Fast drying, and for use on wood, metal, fabric, stone, and more. www.duncancrafts.com
I think it will work and could be quick, easy, non-messy. I like the possibility of making any size dome eye for a lure with little fuss. We'll see...I'll try it on some pre-fab flat eyes first, just check its basic cured properties, and go from there.
Posted 05 January 2008 - 01:39 PM
It looks like a bit of humor was all it took to stimulate those creative juices... What a cool trip it's been
Posted 05 January 2008 - 01:53 PM
Humour is a very necessary part of my threads, otherwise no one would read them!
Posted 05 January 2008 - 02:02 PM
Is there a name for Vodka with a beer chaser??? Juist checking....
Posted 05 January 2008 - 03:03 PM
:sauced:I think it's called a 'Bartender, take my keys!"
Posted 05 January 2008 - 04:41 PM
I thought it would have been something like a "Fremented Russian" or a "Bock Patato"... "Running Scared" sounds a little sissy-ish... (New word for acts like Elton John..)
Posted 05 January 2008 - 04:53 PM
Well a shot with a beer chaser is known as a "boilermaker"....
Posted 06 January 2008 - 12:56 AM
Having created half a tin of frogs spawn, I thought I would complete the job and mount a couple. I cast a plaster body for experimentation. I tried to glue the eyes, slightly high, just running into the back curvature, as a good test.
This thread should have been about gluing eyes, as making them is so easy compared to fitting them.
Maintaining symmetry and keeping the edges glued down and gluing fingers to the paint job is a nightmare. How do you guys do it?
I can feel a special tool design comming on.