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Posted 07 January 2008 - 01:00 PM
I have read through a number of threads regarding sealing wood plugs with thinned devcon and still am a little unclear on a couple of things.
What ratio of acetone to devcon does one use to thin the epoxy for sealing? I know someone who uses flexcoat and just thins to a watery consistency, is this ok for devcon? How about envirotex?
I seem to recall also that some folks “dip” their plugs in envirotex for clear coat (or thinned for sealing). I am just wondering how they do it? Fill a jar with mixed epoxy then dip the entire plug? Or is there another way to do the “dip?” It seems like that’s a lot of epoxy that one would have to mix in order to dip their plugs.
I currently just brush on the devcon or etex and either hang and flip or put on a spinner. The brushing is kind of a pain. Trying to figure out a better way……yeah right. LOL.
Thanks for any and all help.
Posted 08 January 2008 - 10:56 AM
I only use devcon 2t so dont really know about the other stuff but I thin the devcon a little bit with denatured alcohol,not acetone.usually thin to more of a creamy consistincy instead of the gel like you get without thinning.I have read here lately where some have had a concern with the denatured alcohol eventually yellowing the devcon but personally I have never had any problems with it and I am getting a super clear,slick finish.
Posted 08 January 2008 - 04:58 PM
For sealing wood, mix Devcon Two Ton 50/50 with acetone. It will be very thin but will still cure to a shiny coat. The acetone is to make the epoxy soak into the wood. I "deglaze" it with 400 grit before applying paint. You can dip in polyurethane or in propionate disolved in acetone for the same thing. If propionate, it usually takes 3-5 dips to get a good coat so it's not really faster than brushing. Envirotex and Flexcoat (or other rod epoxies) already contain solvents. I don't see any advantage over Devcon in application or price, but the end result is the same. Some guys have started using an off-the-shelf "sanding sealer" which sounds promising but I haven't tried it. The sealer's main purpose is to seal the wood so later water based paint won't raise the grain. That's mostly true on hardwood baits but on balsa, I'm also looking to reinforce the wood itself to make it more durable. 5-8 dips in propionate/acetone do a great job on balsa and leave a very smooth hard surface to paint, so IMO it's worth the effort.
Posted 08 January 2008 - 09:44 PM
You are exactly right about having to mix a lot of EL to dip baits before it sets up. I when using Etex have always brushed it on although there are some that mix D2T with acetone and wipe it on to seal with.
Posted 09 January 2008 - 07:59 AM
I use Envirotex, and thin if I want to with alcohol. I only use it for my clear coat, and I would be afraid acetone would affect the water based paints I'm coating with the clear.
I'm thinking about trying Envirotex as a sealer with acetone as a thinner, to see if it penetrates, and dries faster. I'm impatient.
Posted 09 January 2008 - 01:08 PM
I am just starting out so please take my advice with a grain of salt...
I seal my baits with 4-5 dips of propoinate, I think it dries quick enough, especially if I'm doing a few baits. Then, I base coat with flat white spraypaint and paint my colors with waterbased paints. Then, I clear coat with Devon 2-Ton straight, no thining. I either rub it on with my finger or use a brush. I do two to three coats, depending on how the previous coat looked. I guess I'm not overly fussy with my clearcoat, I just want it to cover completely to protect the paint. For me, this is the simplest system with the shortest amount of down/drying time. I hope this helps.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 01:45 PM
Thanks for the answers and input. I am going to experiment a bit w/ acetone a denatured alcohol as thinning agents. I have some propionate that I have not tried yet. Maybe mess around with that as well. Thanks.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 11:33 PM
Hint - disolve the prop pellets in acetone. Denatured alcohol won't do it.