shoalie

Dick Nites & Wrinkled Paint????? What am I doing wrong???

23 posts in this topic

Hey guys,

I have cleared quite a few baits in the past week with Dick Nites. It seems as if two coats is necessary for bass fishing. Although out of about 20 lures, four have paint wrinkles and one had paint bleeding. I thought they were completely cured and heat set but this still happened. I am using mostly waterbased Createx, and Polytranspar. Please help!!!

Any ideas will be appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Paint could have been too thick, and not set up hard enough. If you dip your base coat, it can take 24-48 hours or more to set up enough. I have run into trouble with the same problem, result, paint not cured because of it being too thick. If spraying, make sure your paint is very thin. Just my 2 cents.

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When reporting a problem, it's always helpful to give all the info you can. I've used both types of paint under DN, even together, without problems, but how did you apply it? What sort of other paint system/brand did you use? Were they repaints? How much time between coats? Was the bleeding through the clear? Transparent paints bleed, could it have been that?

Couple of things with DN:

1 - Lures have to be DRY. Don't rush it. Paint on Monday, clear on Tuesday or Wednesday.

2 - How thick was your paint? Refer to #1 more paint? Clear on Thursday!

3 - Application method? I see you say two coats. How much time between coats? An hour? A day? I give a full day between coats if I use two.

4 - What were the ambient conditions? Like anything paint/clear related, warm and dry is the key.

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Paints were basically Createx pearls and Createx transparents with a Wasco shimmering paint on top. The paint wrinkled instantly witihn 5 minutes after DN was brushed on. I painted one a week before I brushed, the others were 24 hours after I sprayed.

When dipping, do you let your extra drip on cardboard??? How long do you let cure before you take em fishing?????????

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As far as the bleeding, had a few do the same thing. Try thinning the topcoat and spraying a light coat over the paint. It worked for me.(Just be sure and clean your airbrush right away after spraying the dick nites)Let em cure for awhile, ( I wait at least 24 hours) and then brush your topcoat. Someone here said that the Dick Nite should be fishable after 7 days but can continue to cure for a month. I can't say, haven't fished any of my Dick Nites yet.

Jay

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Shoalie

As a matter of fact I was just talking to Dean about the same thing just today :lol:. Could possibly be polytranspar....not 100% about that but, one cure to the problem is to spray a coat of clear out of a rattle can before using the DN. That cured the same problem I was having. I use Rustoleum Crystal clear gloss enamel and heat set that.

As far as legnth of time before fishing I would wait about a week. JMHO

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While the idea is sound, and you've obviously gotten it to work, but why mix paint systems? I use a water based base to cover the pearls as well as the sharpie to prevent the solvents from releasing it. Both Createx and Polytranspar offer a base and or a clear.

As far as dipping, I let it drip back into the jar (I know, I know), then into a trash can. I have fished (and caught!) using DN lures as quickly as the next morning after clearing.

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T-Bait discovered some time ago that the Wasco was finicky about clear topcoats, and he found reference to that fact in their literature. What Hoodady did worked, (ya got lucky there Cuz!) but dampeoples nailed it. A coat of Createx or Parma Fascolor clear over your paint job and Sharpie Signature will protect both, and your Dicknite's will do fine. Of course, thoroughly heat-set your waterbase clear same as your paint. The only time I've had a color bleed with Dicknite's is when I rushed the heat-setting. I stay with Createx and Parma and have never had the paint-wrinkling issue, but that is definitely an incompatible paint issue that can be cured with the heat-set Createx clear between your paint and the Dicknite's, and well worth that extra step. You cannot tell the Createx or Parma clearcoat is there in the finished lure, even when used partially as I do, to protect my Sharpie Signature.

Dean

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Ah, dipping , been there done that - When you dip you put a much thicker coat on, which takes longer to flash (does not matter which coating if it is thinners based), this un-cured coat has longer to eat into whatever is underneath - like they are all saying "seal it first", this isolates the paint from the top coat. I used to have this problem with Auto clear. pete

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Not really the polytranspar's problem. Drying properly is the culprit. I have remedyed this problem with the help of a friend whom is a master bait maker and painter. Get some PPG DTL 105 laquer thinner, this stuff is expensive ($40.00 a gallon) but it is worth every penny and will stop the bleeding and running of paint. Make sure your paint is very THIN. He had to show it to me to prove it, but it WORKS. In your little airbrush paint jar, put no more than half of paint and fill with 105, your problems will be gone. You can litterly paint your lure, clean your airbrush and dip that quick. Another thought, if you paint more than three colors, you need to clear coat before a forth or more colors. You still need to wait at least 24 hours before clearing over your base coat. Get the 105 it works. It took me a year to try it, and I won't paint without it. You still need some cheap laquer thinner to clean up with, the 105 is too expensive to use for wash laquer.

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Shoalie, I used exactly the same mix of paints you did, heat cured with a hair dryer, and then dipped in DN 2 hrs later. No problem. I always let DN drip onto a piece of newspaper until I'm sure there is no pooled areas that will migrate around as it flashes, then clip it on a 4 rpm dryer for an hour - usually in my cold garage. The only time I had a problem is when I directed a fan heater onto the bait while it was rotating. Then I got some ripples. Maybe some DN problems are magic and can only be cured with voodoo, but I think if you keep the coating thin and the bait rotating, many of them can be avoided. I recoat with a second dip of DN after 24 hrs and let the bait cure for 3-7 days before fishing. Honestly, if I were going to brush the finish on anyway, I'd use (and do) Devcon 2T because it's more bulletproof in application.

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parrothead 127.....thanks for the imfo...actually i was not the one who asked the question but that is exactly ONE of my problems!!!!!!UNBELIEVABLE......you can bet i have already located the 105 and i'll get it this morning!!!!!what i did ask was ....what exactly is heat setting?????and how important is it??????thanks

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Heat setting is for water based paints, the laquer thinner is for laquer based paints, lots of info here pertaining to TWO paint systems.

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need help AGAIN.... a few weeks ago i asked for help with a problem i'm having with dnite wrinkling paint....parrothead127 was kind enough to offer a solution (thin with ppg dtl 105 @ a rate of 50-50)that really didn't cure my problem....i use lacquer paints....polytranspar and life tone mostly...i use deft sand and sealer and put on two coats....then white base coat...then my colors...i have heat set for as long as 3 or 4 hours....also i have tried createx clear on top and heat set that and then wait til the next morning to dip in dnites...same results...wrinkled paint....i might add that i use a lot of transparent paints if that makes any difference....also when mixing 50-50 i don't get good coverage...what about retarder???? parrothead do you or ANYONE have more suggestions??????? PLEASE PLEASE HELP

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No retarder! That will prolong the drying time. Why are you heat setting the lacquer? There is no need to use a high dollar lacquer thinner. You don't need to keep the paint on a lure that wet. That lacquer thinner is intended for use on a auto. If you are heat setting with a hot thinner you are most likely trapping solvent in the paint. Once a skin is formed on the paint this retards the evaporation, again let it dry on its own. The only time it would be prudent to use a hot thinner would be when painting in very hot or humid weather the prolonged evaporation will allow the humidy to evaporate from the finish and reduce the occurance of blush in the paint.

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If you don't pile on the colors, dry to touch is fine! There are instances where you can use hot thinner such as blending and fading. But really not an absolute requirement. I use regular grade thinner make sure though it isn't recycled and its virgin. You will discover that it will do just about everything required when painting a lure. If you find a need to use retarder buy a quart and mix with the general grade to get what you want. Good Luck!

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I had similar issues and also used Polytranspar. I started sealing my lures with clear lacquer using the vacuum method and bought some Dick Nite white lure coat and used it for primer. so far, I haven't had any issues.

Jay

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