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help with dick nites
19 replies to this topic
Posted 09 January 2008 - 05:17 PM
Hey guys I need some help in a bad way!Just got my dick nites today been waiting for a week.I tested it some bandits put it on the drying wheel and bingo they are perfect.Next I dipped my ten brand new luckies that I actually bought for myself for a change and the paint peeled right off of three of them the other 7 are perfect but I have no idea what happened to the other ones they are ruined!
These things have been sitting in my basement for 3 days painted and drying so I know they were dry enough.I use only createx paint and dont really sand much unless there is a scuff or bubble in the bait.I just paint a couple of coats of opaque white and then spray my colors thats it.
Please help what do I need to do?
Posted 09 January 2008 - 07:50 PM
Sometimes DN's will react with other paints but, since you are using C-Tex it shoul'nt unless you neglect to heat set it to make sure it is dry. I had a problem with wrinkling occasionally and cured that by before applying the DN spray a coat or two of clear gloss either enamel or laquer and heat set that. It only takes a few more minutes and it adds a little insurance.
Posted 09 January 2008 - 07:57 PM
Or you could do as Dean says( you da man Cuz ) and use a Createx or Parma clear over your paint but, still make sure you heat set it before the DN's.
Check earlier post on wrinkling paint
Posted 09 January 2008 - 09:28 PM
my guess is the paint. I spray dick nights on all the lures I paint. I use lacquer baised paint from wasco. I have one color blue that will run every time if I spray on a thick coat. If I use that one color on a lure I have to dust it with a thin layer of d.n. clear and let it dry before I spray a final coat of clear.
Posted 10 January 2008 - 02:03 AM
Sometimes it's a mystery but I think most wrinkling happens when the DN is too thick on one part of the lure. If it hasn't been dripped off sufficiently after dipping or if it is sprayed on too thickly, it can migrate and collect in one area before its solvent flashes off. Then the solvent has enough time to cause a problem. When I have problems, it's usually with larger baits. More surface area = more DN applied = better chance for it to migrate.
Posted 10 January 2008 - 04:49 AM
This is a simple matter. They weren't dry enough!! If you are using Createx, you must heat-set your lures to use Dicknite's successfully. I know that Createx says that permanance is achieved by letting them dry for 3 days, but it is not the same as heat setting. I promise that you will not have a problem with any Createx color using Dicknite's if you'll heat-set them thoroughly with a hair dryer first. This is how I do all my lures, and have for the better part of two years now; Dicknite's on top of both Createx and Parma Fascolor--Never a problem.
You were lucky that you didn't try to brush on the Dicknite's as you would have ruined all 10.
Posted 10 January 2008 - 06:03 AM
He let sit for 3 day's, hard to believe they were not dry, maybe you have alot of moisture in the basement ?
I do mine in the basement I did not heat set and can dip 20 mins. later.
But I only have done about 15 lures my room temp right now in the winter is 60 deg.
I do have a warm box that I let my baits sit in after dipping.
Posted 10 January 2008 - 07:42 AM
Thanks for all the info fellas.Dean I heatset in between every color I put on the lures as im painting them.Should I do it again right before I dip em.I have some Parma clearcoat I will spray my remaining lures with that heatset and try again .
Posted 10 January 2008 - 08:47 AM
You didn't mention you heat-set them, you said they'd been sitting in your basement for 3 days so you knew they were dry enough...anyway...but there is a big difference between dry to the touch, so you can apply the next color and being heat set. I dry mine to varying degrees between colors, depending on the amount of paint I'm going to put on the lure; naturally the more paint, or number of coats I use (like the bluegill I posted in the Gallery a couple of days ago), the more time I spend with the hair dryer. With Createx and Parma, you are literally steaming the moisture from the paint, and you are changinig it in a way you'll never achieve if you're not thorough enough. After the final paint detail and before coating with Dicknite's, I gather the lures I'm going to topcoat, I turn the hairdryer on high and really cook them for several minutes. If the only paints you are using are Createx or Parma, it won't be necessary to add the Parma clear, other than to protect Sharpie markings or your signature. You can't of course damage the wooden baits I do like this. I am more careful with plastic lures like Deep Little N's I do occasionally, but I've never had a problem...I know you don't want to pemanently deform your LC's, so you may want to keep the dryer moving a bit more on those!
If you're using Createx or Parma, you may be able to get away with dipping the clear without heat-setting; you wouldn't be able to brush it on however, you'd wipe your paint right off, without first heat-setting. I tried just letting a lure hang right in front of the furnace blow for 3 days, not running constantly, but enough to accelerate some epoxy curing there, and it was still a no-go for brushing. With fabric, heat-setting is the difference between the permanance to stand repeated washings, and washing most of your paint away when you throw it in the washing machine the first time; and no reasonable amount of air-drying will substitute for what a hot iron can do in 2 minutes. But if you're happy, more power to you.
Posted 10 January 2008 - 09:26 PM
Can I use a heat gun to heat set Createx or does a hair dryer work best?
Posted 10 January 2008 - 09:42 PM
Dean, I did not mean I was right, I know you have more experience then me.
Not to steel this thread but can you sand DN ( I bumped one of my lures before it was dry and well you know what happened )
Posted 10 January 2008 - 09:53 PM
You can use the heat gun, that's what I use. It is a LOT hotter than the hair drier, though, so keep it moving, and a little further away. I like to aim the heat gun in such a manner that it blows on my hand as well, at least for the final cure, keeps me more focused on just how hot it is.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 01:00 AM
I usually run the heat gun on the #3 or #4 setting. I've had trouble with some of the Createx transparent colors staying tacky. Maybe I'm not heating it up enough to set it? I've got one that has been hanging for 3 weeks and is still tacky. It only happens with some of the regular transparent colors(primarily pink, orange and gray), no problem at all with the Auto Air transparents.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 06:51 AM
Jim, it's cool, sand away, just use fine paper and a light touch, making sure you don't go through...I coated one the other day, and immediately dropped it on the carpet .
castmaster, don't worry about those colors that stay tacky--i've notice that there is at least one purple that does that--you could burn up a case of heat guns and it still would feel that way! I think there's something about that particular pigment, or combination of pigments that causes that (I don't believe that it's the retarder), and it's not the only one. When you know it has been thoroughly cooked, go ahead and Dicknite it after it cools, it will be fine.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 07:48 AM
Thanks a million man I heatset about ten more right before I dipped em and they are all perfect. Maybe my basement has a little mor moisture in the air than I know about.The bad ones were done for three days and I always heatset really good when I'm done so I can take the tape off and stick the eyes on.Well thanks again and hopefully I'll have no problems from here on out!
Posted 11 January 2008 - 02:44 PM
Must be that time of the month I dropped a bait, then my composure fell on the carpet shortly after that, hehe.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 03:38 PM
When you say heat set how long are you going over the bait with the hair dryer. I usually go back and forth on high from about 6 to8 inches away and I am always afraid of melting the paint off if i go too long. Do you heat set every coat you put on or just at the end? I usually let them sit for a few days after the final heat setting. Thank you. Paul
Posted 11 January 2008 - 06:27 PM
I guess that paint has a high melting point; i've gotten the hemostats holding the bait awfully hot more than a few times. It sounds as though you use the same method as I do with the hairdryer...and I've never timed it, but I do it for several minutes. I heat to some extent after every coat, and then when I hit a stopping point, I get more thorough...and I'm always very thorough at the end. Better too much than not enough! Letting them sit a few days I think is a good thing, although I don't always do it--let all those molecules chill into stability.
Posted 12 January 2008 - 10:43 AM
Thanks. I pretty much do the same. I do a mackerel pattern, salt h2o, and I use a template. I have to use the hairdryer on the pattern to dry the black paint or i could never get it off without smudging the whole thing.