Posted 14 January 2008 - 09:38 AM
In my experience, it's always better to lightly sand with as fine a grit as you can, to promote a good mechanical bond of old paint to new, as opposed to a chemical bond like you can get with lacquer.
I don't make baits out of either plastic or balsa, so I can't really comment on the new bait process for them, but I've repainted some plastic baits using Createx water based paint and Envirotex Lite epoxy top coat. I sand the plastic, blow off the dust with my compressor, wipe with alcohol, blow off again to be sure all the alcohol is gone, and then I base coat with a opaque white.
I've painted new wood baits with rattle cans, and the process I used is prime with something that will seal the wood, and that's easy to sand. With rattle cans, I used a flat white primer. I would spray a coat that completely covered the wood, let it dry per the can's instructions, sand with 220 grit, and then recoat with the primer.
Then, if the bait was smooth, I'd start with my colors. If not, I'd sand the rough spots, and reprime.
My baits were big, so an extra coat of primer or two wasn't an issue.
I used a primer instead of a regular paint because I thought it would give me a better bond to the finished paints. I figured that the bond would be really important, because the rattle can clear I used as a top coat was thin, even with multiple coats.
But the good part was the rattle can paints seemed to bond to themselves really well, even in gloss color coats.