HAWGHUNNA

Inserting through wire into R.T.V mold...

4 posts in this topic

is becoming to be a head scratcher to me,I've only poured a couple of (foamy) baits at this time by using my first idea of how to hold the harness in place.

Once designing the through wire,and marking the mold for tow and hook hanger positions,I bent 3 u shaped staples shorter than the thickness of my mold and inserted them into the through wire holes at the designated areas.I then closed the mold inserted it into a card board sleeve that had been pre cut to fit mold,twisted a piece of aluminum wire around one direction while securing the other direction with a rubber band.

Lures turned out great looking....But i had a little bit of flash problems,I was thinking that maybe I need to build a wooden or other stiff material sleeve to insert the R.T.V into before pouring to prevent the foam from forcing the mold apart so easily.

I'm not sure as to how long the mold will hold up as to my inserting the staples into those holes over and over again.

So does anyone have a better idea to install through wire construction to silicone molds,and (or) do you think that the idea that I'm using will use up the mold pre maturly.

Thanks for all the great informative knowledge that you guys are willing to share.

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I haven't made molds, but I've seen them made on the job for plaster mouldings.

The mold makers backed the RTV with casting plaster and fiber, to provide a solid cradle for the soft mold.

If you're doing a two part mold, you could build shallow wooden trays from plywood and 1X, fill them with casting plaster or plaster of paris, and set one half of the RTV mold into it while it's wet to make a solid support. The mechanics of making the two halves mate correctly, and how to align and attach the two halves is up to you. If you have already cast a bait, you could use it to line up the two halves before you seat the second half, and then attach hinges to the two mold halves so they align perfectly every time. That's the advantage of using wood to make the support frame.

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I usually lightly clamp my molds between 1/4 pices of ply, or 1/8 hardboard. As far as as hook hanger. I use a single finish nail rounded over, no sharp edges when I cast the mold so I end up with a hole to insert the pin into it. If vented properly little pressure is needed and flashing will be virtually non existant.

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Thanks guys,

both replies will help greatly.

I tested the Kranks today and they performed flawlessly....a very pleasant surprise indeed.

I owe credit to all that have contributed here,now I will use the tutorship of the fine members here to learn how to use this airbrush.

Killer web site guys...Thanks,Terry Lee

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