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kelly

Rust after sharpening

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I have coated them over with a black Sharpie. But, I sharpen hooks any time a question it's ability to penetrate a fish's jaw. I also have become more willing to cut a hook with a bolt cutter to save a good fish rather than a hook, I carry spare bucktails, trebles, and skirts on the water and can reapir them in minutes.

If a hook is rusted, replace it... The only hook you can't replace on the water is a molded spinner bait hook, BUT, I always carry backups.

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Part of the problem is a shipment of mustad hooks, some are not sharped. I have not had this problem before. Another question do you prefer the cone shape or the arrow point look three flat sides three cuting edges. I am hoping the sharpie is enoufh to stop the rust. If there is any other ideas I would like to here them.

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Part of the problem is a shipment of mustad hooks, some are not sharped. If there is any other ideas I would like to here them.

Return them to mustad.

what you have is a quality controll issue that needs to be corrected by the manufacturer. If you bought a new car and it was only half painted would you accept it? probably not... so why accept other defective products.

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What Mustads are you having a problem with Kelly? I had to hang on to a new box of crap 32729s because there was no older good stock left to exchange for. The Mustad "classics" have been downhill for years and it looks like the Ultra Points might be starting to slip as well.

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Kelly

Try a dab of WD 40 (supposed to be fish oil based) - on the points. Seriously doubt that Sharpie is a rust inhibitor.

Agree with cheesehead - send them back – but then what do you do???? Depending on what style of hook you are talking about – you might be able to find a different manufacturer…

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Spray a little WD 40 into your boxes that contain hooks, including those on cranks, spinnerbaits, etc. Aside from coating, it acts as a desacant, and removes the moisture in the air inside the box when closed. The WD 40 is used by some as a fishing scent anyhow, and won't affect your lures or finishes as well as using something that is negative to the fish. Some have objected to WD 40 on environmental grounds, but in a box, you need so little....

This post was made at the exact same time as LedHead's.....It looks repetitive, but what I'm saying is spray the box as well. If one compartment or one section contains a lot of hooks, I spray the entire section.

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I do not want to fight sending them back. I purchased 100 32798bln 4/0 now on the other sizes 3/0 and 5/0 are perfect. There are 9 with a blunt tip. It will take less time to sharpen them and I have have had alot of luck with mustad. This is my first problem with there hooks. Shiping will most likely cost more than buying more. WD-40 sounds like it will work. What do they coat them with at the factory lacquer or a dry rub on product?

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Kelly

Yeah – sending them back would be more hassle than its worth.

I think EC lacquers their hooks – not sure if others do…

Not to hijack this thread but – if I were a big dog – I’d be here everyday. I know of one that does.

Totally agree with cheesehead – wouldn’t be surprised at all.

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What I do when I sharpen a bunch of hooks is apply some cold blue solution for gun barrels with a Qtip, then lightly oil them. The cold blue can be found in most gun cleaning sections. Hope this helps.

sidewinder

Excellent idea! Cold blue is very easy to use. Brownells carries it if you want to order on-line.

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I'm wondering if the gun barrel blue is the same stuff, only using red dye. It's used in engineering for marking out steel for cutting or drilling.

Vodkaman, are you into sheet metal. I remember a product called dye chem. (it was blue dye) back in the day before turetts and lasers. The shop guys use to brush it on or roll it on sheet steel. Then they would let it dry. Then they would scribe all their lines, and use and crossing scrbe line for center punching, for holes. Many other lines were notch lines or bend lines. Ah.... yes it takes me back to the day when life was easier.

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The gun metal blue. I have used it on my guns and if I do not oil it after, It gets little rust spots on it fast. But thank you for brain storming with me I am still looking for a better way is there any other ideas. I have oiled them and they have not rusted yet but they have not been in the eliminates yet.

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I went from using Eagle Claw to Mustad & now Owner on my darter head jigs. Always had rust problems with Eagle Claw & Mustad. The owners cost more but they are sharper out of the box & no problems with rust. Plus the Owners have a better hook-up ratio than the others I have used. I've used Gamakatsu that were on store bought jigs & I haven't had rust problems with those.

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