Airbrush paint not sticking.
19 replies to this topic
Posted 22 January 2008 - 10:20 PM
Hey guys, I'm having a problem with my airbrush paint pealing and am thinking it's a primer issue but not entirely sure. I'm using creatix airbrush paints and am thinning it out. I've sealed a swimbait by using the plastic melted cup method listed here. But i'm going to list what I've done step by step.
1. Sealed wood by dipping into plastic/laquer thinner 4 times.
2. Cleaned the lure with dish detergent to rid it of oils, rinsed and then dried.
3. applied Rustoleum primer (grey) let dry.
4. applied first coat of paint
5. applied remaining colors
- But after doing that and allowing to dry, a drop of water got on it and then the paint peeled.
Then removed the primer with lacquer thinner.
- redipped the lure into the dip and let dry.
1. Cleaned the lure with dish detergent.
2. used 220 grit sandpaper to mar up the surface.
3. Quick rinse of lure.
4. applied first coat of paint
5. applied remaining coats of paint
Now i haven't tried wetting it because I didn't want to ruin it. But I tried applying a sticker eye on but put it on the wrong spot, so i slowly peeled it off and lo...it started peeling again.
i haven't taken off all the paint, but only a small area is missing where i misplaced the eye.
What am I doing wrong here? Is the airbrush paint supposed to be like this?
Posted 22 January 2008 - 10:37 PM
try sanding your primer before painting, that primer might not be letting the paint bite into it
Posted 22 January 2008 - 10:55 PM
I wouldn't bet on it, but it could be the dish detergent leaving a film.
Posted 22 January 2008 - 11:11 PM
Yep, sand the primer.
You shouldn't need to use detergent to wash the bait if all you have done is dip to seal it.
Try a tack cloth to get the dust off after a light sanding.
Try the paint with out thinning it.
Heat set you paints between coats.
Posted 22 January 2008 - 11:13 PM
I would start by following the previous advice of a very skilled tacklemaker, namely FatFingers. If you check his hardbaits, you'll know what I mean...
"I've used sanding sealer previously, just not the Minwax brand. I've primed the baits directly over the sealer with Krylon Fusion spray cans, which can actually bond to plastic. Its the only primer I've been using for quite some time now and I've had no issues with the primer separating from the sanding sealer.
The Krylon Fusion dries fast too and it provides a nice smooth surface but its also a bit thick so it has the ability to fill in minor aberrations in the wood. I use two coats and allow them time to dry before painting."
Posted 22 January 2008 - 11:45 PM
Well back to the old drawing board. I'll probably buy new plastic primer and sand it then. Also will leave the washing with detergent out. I'll see what happens after that point.
Thanks guys for the feedback.
Posted 23 January 2008 - 12:18 AM
heat set the paint between coats, and no need to thin c-tex. That is just adding more moisture the layers of paint you are spraying.
Posted 23 January 2008 - 12:48 AM
Posted 24 January 2008 - 11:39 AM
If you are trying to spray opaque Createx some thinning is usually required but be sure to use the right reducer and not just water. I switched from regular Createx to their Auto Air paints and they have much better adhesion Also their new 4011 series reducer is awesome. It contains a tiny amount of glycerine which helps eliminate tip dry while spraying. Spray in very thin coats and heat set between. Caution to not over heat the paint as this can reduce adhesion also.
Posted 24 January 2008 - 11:48 AM
Sounds like the problem is heat setting I heat set at every clear coat and sometimes everycoat if I had to thin it a little bit. Also remember sometime it takes a second for the paint to spray if it is an older type gun like I have.
Posted 24 January 2008 - 11:51 AM
I am a complete rookie when it comes to painting plugs, so needless to say I've been doing quite a bit of research on the subject very recently. Is the problem occurring only after you drop water onto the dried paint...in other words, is it flaking off before the water? If it's not, try putting some type of seal coat over your paint job without using water or anything to clean it...if anything, maybe a 1000 grit sandpaper before (any scuff marks will be removed once your top coat is applied). The type of paint you're using is water based, so adding water to it after it's been applied can't be good. I don't know, I could be wrong...just trying to jump in and help. Hope I did so...good luck!
Posted 24 January 2008 - 02:46 PM
I have been painting with Createx for several years and I have never had the experience of lowered adhesion because of overheating Createx. The only time I've ever heard of adhesion problems with Createx is when it is inadequately heated during heat-setting. You do not ever have to concern yourself with losing adhesion because of overheating Createx with a hairdryer. It is just not going to happen. If that was so, I'd always have poor adhesion because I absolutely bake mine, and after they cool, I brush on a clearcoat that contains a quick-flashing solvent catalyst which would smear improperly-cured Createx into an instant mess. I am happy with my predictable results.
Posted 24 January 2008 - 02:52 PM
Dean, I've read that people on here like to apply a clear in between layers of paint. Do you go by this or do you just bake the h@!! out of each layer and move on to the next...waiting to clear at the end?
Posted 24 January 2008 - 02:52 PM
My apologies for the misunderstanding. I was referring to not overheating Auto Air paints which are different from Createx.
Posted 24 January 2008 - 03:41 PM
Snax, I was wondering if that was perhaps the case, because I know you're an experienced, and talented painter.
6 Feet, I'll clearcoat after applying foil, but any other time, I don't clearcoat until I'm finished painting. That's what works well for me, not to say doing it another way is wrong; just different
Posted 25 January 2008 - 04:02 AM
Yoda is right!!! However, Us poor folk down in the Tar Heel State dont got no hair dryin machine you plug in. Heck we aint got no power neither.. I just use our homemade squrriel roaster after the wife is done fixin supper. I turn my lures by hand inside it!! Just watch out for the squrriel hairs..less in you got a wife that likes to skin it before she cooks it!! Mine is lazy!!! After a few hours your good to go with that their clear glue yall like to use!!!
If yall would like a squirrel roaster let me know.. My cousin gator is sellin them at the local flea market in Salisbury.
Posted 25 January 2008 - 07:39 AM
Rookie... I'm laughing so hard I've got tears in my eyes...
I just use our homemade squrriel roaster after the wife is done fixin supper. And I though I grew up with food issues because of my/our love of cheese curds and beer.
Posted 25 January 2008 - 10:32 AM
WOW........17 replies......and from guys like Fat Fingers, Palmetto, Bruce, Dean, Snax, and the Hog. I can't believe you guys didn't notice this........
Now I'm gonna post again in a second, but before you look at my next post, look at the original post and see if you can find one VERY important step missing.......:hint:.........it's at the end
Posted 25 January 2008 - 10:37 AM
Createx is a water based paint. And compared to most paints, water based or not, it doesn't adhere very well to hard, fairly smooth surfaces. (like lures) So when you stick an eye on and pull it off, depending on the color and how dry the paint is, it may peel off right with the eye.
Being a water based paint, once water hits it, almost all colors, it's as good as not on there anymore. And if it doesn't fall off, it'll bubble up on you.
You need to use some kind of a topcoat to protect the paint from the water. There's a few different options. I use Devcon two ton epoxy. A lot of guys use envirotex lite epoxy, some upw clear lacquer, and a lot use dick nite's lure coat. Do yourself a favor and search for this stuff for a couple hours and you'll find a ton of answers.
Posted 25 January 2008 - 10:41 AM
6 feet deep, I completely missed your post until just now. Sorry