48 replies to this topic
Posted 14 March 2008 - 04:44 AM
i have not but the comp i work for most likley has.
we do all commerical stuff.
i work all over the state
Posted 14 March 2008 - 08:08 AM
Hmm, Is this a mass migration from salt guys? Anyway, a warm welcome to all of ya, maybe TU will turn you guys away from your lathe? Some cross fertilization is always good
Posted 14 March 2008 - 08:44 AM
Here's one of my Saltwater Snax models. This is an Atlantic Mackerel...
Posted 14 March 2008 - 06:09 PM
Here are some of my plugs that I made recently. :whistle:The top on is a 3oz walnut and the bottom one is a cedar pencile popper. They all have 3/0 size hooks in the front and tailor hooks.
Posted 14 March 2008 - 07:11 PM
Smitty.....The reason I asked is that I worked there about ten years ago. I spent my coffee breaks outside smoking with the hvac guys. One of them was an avid fisherman and and we would trade off stories. His boss was the hvac co. owners son. RJ....they would mention a Smitty when they were talking. Just figured it might coencindentaly be you.
Andrea.........those are wicked cool...........
Posted 14 March 2008 - 11:33 PM
Why would any fish in the ocean eat anything else?
Posted 16 March 2008 - 08:31 PM
Well.......Here is my first attemp. I found a peice of 1" x 2" pine in my garage. I dont have much in the way of tools so I had to make do. I dont have a vice so a 3" c-clamp had to do. I roughed out the side profile with an electrig jig saw. The rest was done with a 1" wide rasp and a 1/4" wide file. I didnt even have any sandpaper so I stole the peice that was in my sanding block. It was already used medium grit. I think its time to hit the hardware store. This didnt take very long.....about 20 minutes. If I had a belt sander I could probably do it in about 5. I would like an honest oppinion. Is this any good for a first attempt at the wood working part?
Posted 16 March 2008 - 09:30 PM
wow that would be a great first plug for any one
very nice think thats a great shape for mullet.
now that you got thrw the easy part now comes the hard part thats the lip placement and belly weights.
if you like a sideline coach let me know i will give you as much help as i can.....
Posted 16 March 2008 - 10:05 PM
Thanks.....I will take you up on that.
For starters.....this thing is 5-1/2" long 5/8" wide and 1" tall. I dont want it to sink to much....1 or 2 feet would be great. I modeled it after a lure I have in my tackle box exept that it is about 20% bigger. I can copy the shape, and angle of the lip. However, Im not sure how much weight to put in and where. Can you put all the weight in one spot or does it need to be disributed? The model I copied has a treble about 1/2" from the front and one on the bottom about 1/2" from the rear.
Posted 17 March 2008 - 08:50 AM
I'd start by adding the lip, line tie, weighted hook hangers, and sealing the bait. Then add the split rings and trebles you want to use, and see how the lure sits in the water. You can use a bowl of water to test.
Add weight to the hooks (either lead wire or split shots) until you get the distribution and sink rate you want.
Then drill and epoxy in the weights, or melt and pour it, which ever you prefer. Myself, I don't melt because I've gotten more than my share of lead fumes over the years.
If you want it to run 1-2 deep, I'd weight it so it just barely floats (allow 3 grams for paint and epoxy), and use the lip to get it down to depth. Trying to get a lure to suspend at that depth, or any depth, is a nightmare, at least for me.
Posted 18 March 2008 - 08:00 PM
Anybody know if polyurethane paint will stick to varnish? I want to undercoat the pine body with Helmsman varnish because I have a load of it and I hate mixing and useing epoxy. Also, does Gorilla glue work for the eylets?
Also, I have .030" stainless wire for the eylets and plan on making them in twisted fashion. Should the hole for it be tight or loose?
Posted 18 March 2008 - 09:01 PM
Can't help with the varnish/poly question. Maybe someone can weigh-in with some personal experience in using varnish as an undercoat. However, some of these things you just have to try-and-see.
I would caution against using Gorilla glue or any of the similar "ultimate" glues. They foam up while they cure, and the degree of foaming varies with humidity and moisture content of the glued surfaces. So, you'll likely have to clean rock-hard glue foam from your eyelets, and it's extremely difficult to completely remove from the eyelet. You can try it, but consider this a word to the wise.
The eyelet holes should be just large enough so you can poke some epoxy into the hole, and then press (and twist) in an epoxy-coated twisted wire eyelet. Too small and you'll have difficulty being sure you've got complete epoxy coverage, too large and you make more work for yourself.
Learn to work with epoxy. Repeat after me: "Epoxy is my friend." By not using epoxy for certain tasks, you're making your work more difficult, and you risk compromising both the strength and quality of your lures.
Hope this helps, good luck!
Posted 19 March 2008 - 08:32 AM
Posted 19 March 2008 - 10:10 PM
I bought a clamp on bench vice tonight from Home Depot. ($21.00) I was using a 6" c-clamp which was really hard to work with. However, this thing is super greasy with black industrial machine grease. I am going to have to spend tomorrow evening cleaning it with alcohol and relubing just the threaded areas with some clear "3 n 1". I think it would be immpossible to keep the black grease from transferring to my wood bodies.
BTW..........I read just about every thread on paint, sealing, and undercoating. Im going to try the polyacrylic as a sealer and top gloss coat. From what I read, the standard acrylic paints wont have a problem bonding to it. I am going to do brushing for now. I can do it in the kitchen then......and not have to worry about to much mess. ...and I got some marine epoxy to use on the eyelets. Nasty stuff, but I guess the little batches that have to be made for eyelets is livable...........
Posted 19 March 2008 - 11:02 PM
Try paint thinner or lacquer thinner to get the grease off. They're better solvents for oil and oil based products.
Actually, the best solvent for grease is gasoline, but it stinks and is a mess to clean up.